Pfaff 130
 

I have a 362, 332, 1222 and a 1479. I saw this one on CL for a long time and the price kept dropping, so I decided to guy it. Most of my Pfaffs have needed a lot of work and this one is no exception. But, for $20 I think it's worth the effort. No bobbin case, but I expected that. Unfortunately, it doesn't have its original motor and has some blue, clone's motor:< I would imagine this motor is pretty undersized for the capability of the machine. It was locked up tight with about a bobbin's worth of thread wrapped around the hook assembly. Dry as a bone, but only a small bit of rust and both cleated belts are in decent shape. I think I'm going to have to work at this one for a while! The finish is pretty crazed and cracked and it has had a lot of use. I bet it could tell some good stories.

poor thing! It will be better living with you.

Congratulations! You will enjoy getting her up to speed!

Nice machine and a super nice price. They are very desirable if you can get it running.

It looks much better after about 4 hours of work. It's still a bit tight and needs some more work. I also need to look into another motor. The one on it is will be too puny. The dials are a bit locked up, as is usual, so I'm working on those too. The beast is probably the heaviest machine I have.

Does the needle "home left" or can you set it for l-c-r? Someone recently reported that the needle on a 130 homes left and that is not how I recall my 130 to have been made. I might be wrong because my forgettery is better than my memory! LOL!

It has 3 needle positions, L, C, R. The person who says that probably doesn't know how to change it.

I love Pfaff. My 85 year old mom in Holland and her mom both had pfaffs. They had to pay a dime a week - for them in the 1930s.

That's what I thought.

That's a great price! They showw these machines on industrial tables with clutch motors. That would definitely give you more power. Here's a link http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/art/3384965390.htm
Just got a Pfaff 30 and the paint looks very similiar. I tried using the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and it came out much better but within a day or two lots of the cloudiness came back. Will try the compound again and then use the Ultimate Quik Wax to see if it must be protected to stay looking black. Hope you have as much fun as I did! Congrads on the new project!

Lisa

I got it working sweeeeeet! Took me about 8 hours of work total, but even with the piddly motor it has on it, it seems like a great machine. I'm going to give it a FMQing work out and see if I like it.

Lisa, there's a tutorial on how to redo the shellac. http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post5715116 Maybe that's something you're up to? Mine looks much better with just a cleaning and oiling. I don't know if I'll go that route, as I still have to refinish the table it's in. I think I will keep the table. I typically don't want them and try to make my machines portable. But, this beast will never be a portable!

Candace,
I will check that out and see. I know I can't really do too much damage!!!! Thanks for the link. Make sure we get pictures when you are done.

Lisa

Here it is all cleaned up and running. Now on to the cabinet...

Nice job Candace!! I was keeping my eyes open for one of these, no real luck yet tho...have seen a couple on Craig's list, but they wanted $1000! :D

Well, it sews sooo smoothly. Vintage Pfaffs really are on a premier level. I'm so used to the typical black, vintage Singers and Pfaffs are just a level above. I did try some FMQing with it and need to try a few more darning feet. So far, it's not my best FMQing Pfaff, for sure, but before I cross it out I want to try a few more set-ups of feet and pressure on the foot.

I restore old machines and I picked up a Pfaff 130 a few weeks ago that was in poor shape as was the cabinet. I couldn't get the stitch width to free up. Not the knob, but the internal part that slides in the channel. I kept oiling it and letting it set and working it in. This morning it was still sticking but not as much so I threw a motor on it and ran it. I was hoping to get it to free up. It is still sticking a little with the width set to the widest setting. Binding actually. Have I missed something? Here is a picture of my poor gal as I got her home. Oh, and I HATE Tape!!!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]382870[/ATTACH]
I have cleaned her up a bit but I have the same problem with the finish clouding up on me too. I'm getting close to figuring that out though.
~Grant~

The finish on yours looks to be in better condition than mine and seem to have a bit better decals too. And mine cleaned up great, so just keep at it. I worked on mine for a few days and it was really bound up. I resorted to squirting some liquid wrench inside the machine, in the dial area as well. Though, yours looks like it still needs cleaning around the dials. All that dried, gummy residue needs to come off. Just make sure you clean up any spills on the paint from the liquid wrench and don't get it on the belts. It worked immediately for me. I could hear a groaning, squealing sound where it was binding up(I could never pinpoint the area and the Triflow method wasn't working) and then it just took off and sewed smoooooth. I worked on a sewing project with it yesterday and it did a great job.

Thank you Candace. I have a Pfaff 229 and a 230 and they are great machines. I can't get the stitch width knob off of it though. I took out the little set screw at the bottom but it won't budge. I chipped it trying to get it off. :( Are they different from the 229 and 230? Also, there was a small spring that was behind the set screw. I have to think that is part of the problem. Like there is still a piece in there or something. I can't think of why it would be in there. But it is difficult to see up in there and it is such a small hole. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
~G~

You shouldn't mess with the stitch width knob unless it's a last resort. They're old and crack easily. My 332 knob has been glued together in several areas( I didn't do it or break it) but shows the knobs have become a bit brittle with age. You shouldn't have to remove the knob, you just remove the plate from the back of the machine and clean it from behind. And I also applied the liquid wrench that way. Try going through the back of the machine. Let me know how that works:>

Actually, it is Bakelite. It is more brittle than plastic. I got the knob off. I put a screwdriver in the slot the knob goes on to and twisted the knob back and forth and wiggled it off. It took some doing though. It was really on there. It was seized right to the shaft. I'm glad I did too. The spring I mentioned earlier fell out of a hole in the back of the knob. I also have to get to that side of the mechanism. It is really binding up. Something is wrong in there.
~G~

I know. That's what I'm saying. The knobs don't necessarily have to be removed as the liquid wrench would get into the crevice and release any stuck parts. I have learned to not touch any of the Pfaff knobs or handles as odds are they can and do break. When I turn any of them during use, I always turn the body of the knob and stay away from the handles as they typically show signs of cracking or are broken completely off on some machines.

I was able to get it to FMQ effectively. I'm not sure it will be used for that much as I do have other machines I prefer for it, but an original Pfaff darning foot and completely releasing all the foot pressure did the trick. On a side note, the machine was missing its bobbin case and although I have other vintage Pfaffs to borrow from, I prefer each machine have its own case. I ordered a repro case and it's TERRIBLE. It rattles and creates a tension headache. It's visually such a downgrade from the originals with tool marks on it, some bumps in the metal...not good at all. I will keep it as it may do ok. in a different machine or if I ever lose a screw from one of mine...but the 130 hated it. I put the vintage bobbin case back in and smooth as silk again.

Candace is your bobbin case a Japanese case or a made in China case? I heard the ones made in Japan are a better quality. I also had to buy another bobbin case for my 360 - same case as the 130 - but, I have not tried the case yet to see how well it works! Now I am curious! My case was made in Japan.

Nancy

Nancy, I don't know, but by the looks of it I'd wager China. It's a piece of junk. Oddly, there's a washer kind of thing in it that none of my other vintage bobbin cases have. Let me know if yours works well and I may bite the bullet and buy one from your source. It amazing how much difference a quality bobbin case makes!

I am busy making aprons for Christmas right now. I already made 5, working on number 6 right now. I am using my Pfaff 6122, so I will pull out the new case and try it in this Pfaff! I'll let you know how well it works in the 6122 - then as soon as I get a chance, I will try it in the 130! I don't remember seeing anything different like a weird washer in it?

Nancy

I looked at all 3 of my vintage Pfaff cases and none of them had this washer clipped in. It maybe is supposed to help with the rattling or something? At any rate, you get what you pay for and the next one I buy will either be vintage or researched a bit better and bought from a recommended source:<

Ok Candace I just put the new bobbin case in my 130 and I see, hear no difference from the original bobbin case. I got mine from this source http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sewing-machi...item5897f19100 They are in Woodland, ship really fast and I have gotten good quality from them. This is the exact case I bought for $12 + shipping. Comparing the case to the original - it looks exactly the same to me. Now I think I will buy an extra case just because I have so many Pfaffs that all use the same case! Oh, and it has no weird washer!

Nancy

Thanks Nancy, shoot, this one is only $4 or $5 more than the one I bought:< I will go ahead and order one.

I think you will be happy with the new case! It seems to be identical to the original! Let us know what you think of the new case when you get it!

Nancy

Candace, I have 2 Pfaffs that both have the paint worn off or maybe blistered off in the same place. Otherwise they are in good shape. What kind of paint would you recommend to repair them? Thanks for any help. Bobbie

Bobbie, this is just my opinion, but I would either leave it as is or do a complete repaint. I've never seen a machine painted in small patches or areas that doesn't look worse than leaving it alone. You'd think black would be an easy color to match, but throw in sun fading, the discoloration from the shellac etc. and I don't know if you'd be happy with the results. I like having the machine tell a story about how much it was used, and the imperfections are badges, in my eyes. I do have a few machines that are so bad, a repaint would probably be the best way to go. And for that, there are internet sites that give pointers. I'd like to tackle that in the future. Just keep in mind most decals are not replaceable.

Thank you, I have thought about trying Glenn's french finishing, but can't seem to do it. You're right they're not that bad and they do sew. Everything else on them is fine just these small areas of bad paint. Thanks again, Bobbie

What problems are you having with Glenn's method? I've not tried it yet.

I have to agree with Candice. If you have a small chip you might be able to get away with a small touch-up like on a car but I would leave it alone too. Especially if it is honest wear like you said. I would tend to stay away from a repainted machine. It may wind up looking like you are trying to hide something worse than chipped paint. I like to see that wear on a machine. If it is all worn off right down to bare metal you could have a valid reason but it doesn't sound that bad. I have looked and looked for reproduction decals too and there just aren't any to be had except for the Featherweight Singers.
~G~

Oh, just to get my nerve up to do it. And since its down to bare metal, I'll have to repaint about a quarter-size spot before I continue with the rest of it. It's cold out now, so will either bring it in or wait for warmer weather.

I just found this thread and am hoping I can get some information from other Pfaff owners. I just bought a Pfaff 130 that was completely frozen. I am working to get it freed up enough to see if the motor works and purchase a cord. So far I have been able to free most of it up, except the needle position part. I have been able to get some movement with Liquid Wrench and added heat but it's a stiff as pushing a horse up a hill. I am not 100% sure where the bind is so have had to cover everything.

Are there any rules about when I can change the position, like does the stitch width need to be set on 0 or something? The needle position is easier to budge when I am moving the hand wheel (no needle inserted).

Also I do not know what that silver lever with the screw to the left and above the stitch width dial is for. I can't even find information about it in the manual. Any help?

Did you solve your question about the silver lever? I’m not much of a Pfaff 130 mechanic, but I do have one that I turned into a stripped-down treadle that I’m trying to re-home to someone needing a craft treadle machine with a small footprint (market booth?). I’ve had a few lookers, but no buyers or even offers at $150. Maybe I’m priced too high, but you don’t see that many Pfaff 130 treadles. I’m about ready to take it all back apart and use the treadle stand for another project and part-out the head.

CD in Oklahoma

Thank you CD! I think I have it figured out. The silver lever to move the needle position is loosening up by fractional amounts daily. I was able to speak with someone who had the same problem and they advised me it is a piece that is very slow to loosen up and to just keep working it. I rigged up a suicide cord to the motor and found out it's good so I have a cord on the way.

I am shocked no one in your area has jumped at the chance to buy a Pfaff 130. It's a great machine and I was dying to own one. Maybe you would have better luck selling it if you put a motor on it? For me, it's a POWER machine. When I've watched videos on YouTube of them running full out, it almost makes me dizzy! Oh don't part it out. Unless you have the coffee grinder? Do you? :p

I'm glad that you solved your question. I didn't see any response to your post, so I thought I'd jump in with the bare minimum of outside support.

I have a coffee grinder on another 130 portable, but not on this one. I'm not sure what condition the other machine is in, because I've had it in storage for a long while. I've not ever had it on the bench yet. It's got the big work lamp too, but I don't know what the cleated belts look like, or whether the linkage moves properly. On the other hand, the main belt on my treadle seems to be in excellent condition, and the bite appears to me to be very generous. Like I said, I'm not much of a Pfaff mechanic, so other than a Pfaff 230 that I've messed with a tad, that's all of the Pfaff machines that I have and have fiddled with....

CD in Oklahoma