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Nancy |
I'm going to see an Eldredge two spools next week. What are the important questions I need to ask? I remember many moons ago someone on the board said to make sure it came with the cylinder for the bottom spool, which it does. It doesn't have any attachments or manual. The piece was for show so the cabinet and irons look good in the picture. The machine will need TLC but seems OK. This has been on my wish list for a while but it's about 3 hours away and I don't want to screw it up.
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Hootnannie,
Monica, and Nancy are the ones to ask about the two spools. They have one. |
OK Monica and Nancy, any help or hints are very welcome.
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Originally Posted by BoJangles
(Post 4984395)
Geeze, why haven't one of us thought of that! Candace you said you have one of those dohicky's? But, you haven't used it yet? I'd sure like to find out if it worked before ordering it, but it sure looks like it would work great. I think, I am going to order one and give it a try!
Nancy |
Been gone for a week so now catching up on the threads. This is my recomendations for maintaining the finish on these old cabinets or any good furniture. They should be cleaned by my method in the tutorial section or by your favorite method that works. I don't use any oils(Howards feed and cleaner any oil of any kind) it will just evaporate and while wet it will attract dust. I don't use endust or pledge on my furniture. The oil will eventually turn the finish dark and will have to be cleaned. I use Bri wax it has beeswax in it and it is easy to use. You can use any wax that has bees wax in it. You will have to buy it in antique store. You can use Johnson paste wax but it is hard to use. I wax mine once a year and then just dust with a soft cloth then with another soft cloth polish bring back the shine of the wax. You don't need any wax on the cloth to polish just buff. The wax does two main things control the moisture from going into the finish and out again and to form a slick surface which helps prevent scratches from whatever you set on it. You will need to apply two coats several days between each. You will know when a piece needs to be rewaxed when it no longer shines by buffing with the soft cloth. As I said in earlier threads wood does not need oil, it will just sit on top of the finish be it shellac or varnish and will never get down to the wood which is a good thing and the only thing. Remember we are protecting the finish not the wood. The finish is protecting the wood. Wood is dead and can't not eat anymore.:p
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Originally Posted by jljack
(Post 4984183)
Oh, I LOVE this article. Now to get some wax.
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Originally Posted by misseva
(Post 4983476)
Regarding using something else for belts. I'm like faaaarrrrrrr away from anyone that sells belts. I ordered two leather ones and could not for the life of me get one stapled together. In trying to make a hole - the belt kept slipping and hole went in crooked and resulted in the belt splitting. Soooo I read here on the board that someone used the leg of a panty hose and I tried it. Works like a charm and cost was zero. And was much easier to put on - just stretch it as far as it would go and tie a knot.
Also I have a question. Can someone tell me the model number of a Singer electric machine - serial #AH300426. I think it was manufactured in 1947. It belongs to a friend and she needs a power cord that goes from machine to plug in. I've never seen the machine - just going by her description. |
Originally Posted by BoJangles
(Post 4984395)
Geeze, why haven't one of us thought of that! Candace you said you have one of those dohicky's? But, you haven't used it yet? I'd sure like to find out if it worked before ordering it, but it sure looks like it would work great. I think, I am going to order one and give it a try!
Nancy |
Originally Posted by Glenn
(Post 4984614)
The finish is protecting the wood. Wood is dead and can't not eat anymore. This article is right on and I see he uses the bri wax too. |
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