miriam

You can find Glenn's tutorials by going to his profile - click on his name and then when you get to his profile look for his "find latest started threads" Then you can click that and look at the threads Glenn has started. In there you will see various tutorials you can click on and view them. He has a lot of info. If you like you can also send Glenn a private message and ask him questions. I have a lot of info on repairs. You can go on my profile and look through started threads and read up on repairs. well other stuff too...

Glenn

Clean the cabinet first with my solution one before doing anything after cleaning then you can repair the veneer. Look at my tuts then if you have questions please Pm me and I will be glad to help anyway I can.
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ruby2shoes

beeIee, the tutorial of Glenns' that I looked through is: go to Home page, In Quilting Forum Sections the 6th section down is the Tutorials section. The one I read was found on the 4th page of the tutorial section.

redmadder

What do ya'll use for the areas that are not shellaced? The wood is so thirsty for oil but I don't want to leave sticky stuff on the drawers and runners.

Glenn

First place wood is dead and does not need to be fed oil on raw wood that was never shellaced. The wood without a finish looks dry from age and not being finished. But to make it look better you can wipe on a light coat of boiled linseed oil. On the drawer runners I use an old white candle and rub on the runners to make them slide easy. Do this on the the drawer bottoms to that rub on the runners. If you wipe with linseed oil make sure you wipe it off well so it will cure fast. The oldtimers never wasted finishing products in area that would not be seen. The wood looks dry but really it is just fine. Hope this has answered your question.
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CorgiNole

Wonderful topic and thanks for sharing your knowledge. My grandfather went through a phase where he painted wonderful furniture a really horrible mustardy color. Including my great grandmother's sewing machine cabinet. When I eventually inherit the machine, I plan to refinish the cabinet, hopefully back to natural glory.

Cheers, K

NBPinMD

Thank you for this topic and the wealth of information. This will come in very handy as I refurbish my treadle table and Brunswick.

Ellpea

I have a little "Hale's Crescent" machine that came in a cabinet with 4 drawers. It had a chain lift assist which was anchored in the underside of the lid (lifting the machine as the lid opened), but the entire mechanism had been ripped out, so a chunk is missing out of the lid. I HAVE THE MISSING PIECE, which has the metal part the chain would attach to.

We can surely glue this back in place, but my question is, will it ever be trustworthy? Which kind of glue would be best? I don't have to be historically correct on this one, I'd just like it to be secure. (I have Gorilla wood glue.)

Glenn

Gorilla will work or any good quality wood glue will be fine. You can also if enough room predrill and use a wood screw with the glue.

DavidH

Glenn,
I have a question about my industrial 31-15 machine table. The table looks to be yellow pine and it seems to have been used as a work bench some time in the past. looks to have had a can of stain that left a ring and maybe motor oil spilled on the finish and left tt soak in. It also has had several holes drilled for motor mounts and other attachments. I belt sanded the top to clean up a bit of the paint and stain. over drilled and doweled all the holes. Now I want to finish the table. I still have lots of little dings and some oil soaked wood. I think the dings give the table a bit of charactor but the oil I need to remove. What will help with this. Then I would like your suggesting for a product to finish the table as it will be located in my workshop. One of the first sewing projects will be sewing a canvas cover for the machine, but if some got splattered on the table in the future I would like a finish I could just wipe up. Here is a picture or two of the table as it is now.

David Hair