Trying to love my 15-91...
#21
Jp
#22
I have encountered a similar problem - Its the number one reason I use a stand along thread holder that pulls the thread off the top of the spool, the spool does not turn at all.
BTW - my long arm is really good at doing this, what happens is it give the thread a bit of a yank causing the thread spool to spin and loosen, then the loose thread gets caught on something above the tension, and SNAP with the next stitch. It happens so fast there really isn't any way to watch other than to video it and replay. Of course, if you slow down it does not happen because the speed is the main culprit. There is nothing wrong with the machine, but for some reason with the thread path, it makes it easy to get a good spin on the thread spool and the loosened thread is the problem.
I never have this problem with the thread spool, as it never sends the spool spinning.
BTW - my long arm is really good at doing this, what happens is it give the thread a bit of a yank causing the thread spool to spin and loosen, then the loose thread gets caught on something above the tension, and SNAP with the next stitch. It happens so fast there really isn't any way to watch other than to video it and replay. Of course, if you slow down it does not happen because the speed is the main culprit. There is nothing wrong with the machine, but for some reason with the thread path, it makes it easy to get a good spin on the thread spool and the loosened thread is the problem.
I never have this problem with the thread spool, as it never sends the spool spinning.
Stack wound thread is meant to turn with the spool as it comes off. If we put it on a horizontal pin - or a thread stand - we introduce an extra bit of twist, which can cause "springy" issues, like what you describe. Likewise, cross wound thread doesn't want to be yanked off with the spool rotating. The resistance causes issues with tension and sort of "snaps" back and forth, causing the spool to over spin and wrap around itself.
Here's more on the subject if I haven't bored you to tears already: http://www.archaicarcane.com/standin...s-stack-wound/
Of course most of these problems won't manifest, as Cathy mentions, at slow speed, so it's really hard to troubleshoot because few of us troubleshoot at WOT (wide open throttle).
#24
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bluebell
Posts: 4,291
OMG, please don't give up on your 15. I think they are the best. Sometimes I have that happen, but that is when I am going way way to fast. I usually turn my spool upside down as someone mentioned. Also, I use around felt piece on the botton of the spool. I agree to throw the bobbin out and even if you have to buy a new bobbin and case. There may be a bur inn it. I do like the idea of a washer on top. I have a brother that is notorious for this problem if I go to fast. It doesn't sound to me like a tension issue since your stitches are fine. I may suggest to change your type of thread, my old machines does not like gutterman and some brands. I know that may be silly to others but I find that to be true for me.
#25
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Bluebell
Posts: 4,291
#26
Now, that is one great article. http://www.archaicarcane.com/standin...s-stack-wound/
thanks
thanks
I agree thank you so much for that information. I have often wondered what causes my thread to herk and jerk around.
I am a bit embarrassed to say I think I know what the problem was. At least I am pretty sure I figured it out. The bobbin case has a burr on the post that the bobbin slides onto. I knew that, discussed it in and earlier topic on this board even. I had bought a replacement case but somehow ended up w/the defective case in the machine. I think that burr was catching on the notch on the bobbin. Now, I have done some sewing and see no problems so far, however I only sewed several long seams just to test it and had no issues, but I am never sure when it is going to happen so I will have to wait until I spend more time w/it to declare w/certainty it is fixed. I feel pretty confident though .
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. It is always so informative to get all the different ideas because one never knows which idea will be the one they need for their problem.
You guys are great and a wealth of information.
Jp
#27
If you don't return to "up", the stitch isn't finished being formed, so that's why the machine doesn't want to let go of your work.
I think this is likely what's happening. The other thing that's likely making the problem worse is that cross wound thread - which is a lot of what we buy these days, doesn't love being on a vertical pin. Especially when sewing at speed, it can climb up and down the pin, it can over spin, wrapping itself around the pin the wrong way and binding it, etc. Weights can help, and I think this is one of the uses of the spool pin springs you can buy for the featherweights, but in the end the only thing that worked for me too was a thread stand or a cup to take the thread off the top of the machine. When these machines were made, most if not all thread came on stack wound spools. Vertical pins are great for that.
Stack wound thread is meant to turn with the spool as it comes off. If we put it on a horizontal pin - or a thread stand - we introduce an extra bit of twist, which can cause "springy" issues, like what you describe. Likewise, cross wound thread doesn't want to be yanked off with the spool rotating. The resistance causes issues with tension and sort of "snaps" back and forth, causing the spool to over spin and wrap around itself.
I think this is likely what's happening. The other thing that's likely making the problem worse is that cross wound thread - which is a lot of what we buy these days, doesn't love being on a vertical pin. Especially when sewing at speed, it can climb up and down the pin, it can over spin, wrapping itself around the pin the wrong way and binding it, etc. Weights can help, and I think this is one of the uses of the spool pin springs you can buy for the featherweights, but in the end the only thing that worked for me too was a thread stand or a cup to take the thread off the top of the machine. When these machines were made, most if not all thread came on stack wound spools. Vertical pins are great for that.
Stack wound thread is meant to turn with the spool as it comes off. If we put it on a horizontal pin - or a thread stand - we introduce an extra bit of twist, which can cause "springy" issues, like what you describe. Likewise, cross wound thread doesn't want to be yanked off with the spool rotating. The resistance causes issues with tension and sort of "snaps" back and forth, causing the spool to over spin and wrap around itself.
i am very intrigued by all if this. So, was thread of the past stack wound then? And if so, what brand of thread still winds like that? I would like to try that with some of my peskier machines.
#28
I am a bit embarrassed to say I think I know what the problem was. At least I am pretty sure I figured it out. The bobbin case has a burr on the post that the bobbin slides onto. I knew that, discussed it in and earlier topic on this board even. I had bought a replacement case but somehow ended up w/the defective case in the machine. I think that burr was catching on the notch on the bobbin. Now, I have done some sewing and see no problems so far, however I only sewed several long seams just to test it and had no issues, but I am never sure when it is going to happen so I will have to wait until I spend more time w/it to declare w/certainty it is fixed. I feel pretty confident though .
If it's the post I'm thinking of - it's not part of the bobbin case but the part that stays in the machine when you take the bobbin case out to replace the bobbin, yes? If so, polish the burr off of it with some fine grit sandpaper.
If the burr is where I'm thinking, yes, it would affect the needle thread.
but definitely let us know how you make out!
You'd probably have to just survey what the shop has. Luckily it's easy to tell by looking at it.
I would try a spool stand or a coffee cup with cross wound threads in your peskier machines first. My featherweight used to launch spools. Now she just hums along and sews her pretty stitches.
Assuming that you do the appropriate tension adjustments to the machine, really any thread should work in it, within reason. If you want to start using V92 thread in a 15, you're likely to run into trouble, but I've run anything from 60wt to 30ish weight and silk, poly or cotton - with no trouble as long as I adjusted both top and bottom tensions appropriately.
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