Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

Candace, I will try to get a picture and, yes, it is an original Singer foot pedal and cord. That's one reason I doubt that it was 'new' in December 2010.

In the meantime, how do I FMQ my daughter's quilt? I am nearly finished. Try my 15 clone? The Universal. the MW and the Admiral all have vertical bobbins. Whoops, scratch the Admiral. It's foot pedal is the old white ceramic type Kathy said to replace and it has overheated once.

irishrose,

You need to wire it just like it was. It looks complicated but the way it's done allows everything to work properly.

QuilterMomma,

The foot controllers Sew-Classic sells do not look like OEM units, but they work the same. They use two wires that simply connect with screws inside.
The hardest part to putting on a new foot controller is putting in the stress relief or tying an underwriters knot.

Joe

Joe, it doesn't look complicated. Pretty straight forward if there had been three wires and three terminals, but the two wires twisted together on one terminal threw me off. They came up either side of the terminal and were twisted together at the top of it.

Rose, use your 15 clone until you get it done. They're great at FMQing. They probably told you it was new because it's been newly rewired. I'm not going to tell you to do it just like it was...because something wasn't right, hence your sparks and all that. Nope, I need to see pictures. :>

Here are two pictures. Sorry, the one is blurry. The terminals are numbered 1, 2 and 3. 1 and 3 each have one wire that leads to the wall plug as a normal two wire cord. terminal 2 is the one with the two wires on it that lead to a normal two wire cord to the foot controller. They are the two wires sticking up in the clear picture. The burned spot in the cord was not inside the plug. All four wires have way more copper showing than I am comfortable with. Very strange. I've always thought it was one wire to one pin. Period.

Irishrose,

Them cords are a PITA to rewire, best bet is to get a new two lead cord. Just verify the cord was the problem (Black marks where there was wire to wire contact) and not something inside the machine.

Jon

Irish Rose,

Yes, Jon is right to a point, they are a PITA to rewire, but not that hard really.

It took me about three months and three or four rewirings before I actually had a mental grasp on this 4 wires to 3 connectors design.

The plug you show disassembled is only half of the circuit. So you are not seeing the whole picture. I have several wiring diagrams that I've collected printed out, but no URL for me to refer you to. They are on my dead PC.
OK, I found one of them. http://www.treadleon.net/sewingmachi...ng/wiring.html

If your machine was running correctly before the wire shorted out, just rewire it as it was.

I hate working on 110/120 V electric stuff so if I can do it, so can you.

~Or~

Go to Sew-Classic and buy a replacement set and send me the burned out one. I can use the parts.

Joe

OK, I scanned in the three wiring diagrams I have.
>The first one is a generic drawing that applies to most machines. It's fairly easy to follow. If you refer to it when you look at the two Singer diagrams it might help.
>The second one is the diagram to the 221 series machines. It shows how the block on the machine and the cord is wired. The biggest difference between the 221 and other Singers is the 221 has a separate switch between the block and the light. Most other Singers have the switch at the light. The cord side will be the same.
>The third picture show the different ways Singer wired the machines. The top motor is like yours. All the wires go to a separate two piece junction block. The bottom motor does not have a junction block, all it's wires are hard wired together with screw connectors.


The thing is, all the circuits shown in these drawings are the same. It's easier to understand if you print out the drawings and put them right next to your actual wiring project.

I hope this helps some.

Joe