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Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

  1. #39311
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    Nancy,
    You got it. If there are other brands that use the sintered bearing/ bushings they also rely on regular usage to keep the oil flowing.
    BTW There are other 'self oiling' systems. I had a beautiful green Remington from the 50s that had a built in oil 'tank'. To keep it oiled you needed to push on the top on the tank occasionally and oil was delivered to all areas via tiny copper tubes that ran through the interior of the machine. Cool idea, except it was messy as oil leaked.

    Cathy
    Cathy

    "Most sewing machine problems are due to the carbon based unit in the chair in front of the machine"

  2. #39312
    Super Member craftiladi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grant15clone View Post
    Joe, I had the same problem with my 401. Make sure that the needle is in correctly. I reinserted the needle the wrong way three times in a row and mine was doing the same thing. I had the needle hole 45 degrees off. If that is not it check to make sure that the thread is going between the upper tension disks and not next to them. (I've done that too) And make sure that the tension disks are clean. There should be three disks. ~G~
    I have done that and then hit myself up the side of my head...lol its a duh moment. I acquired a singer 758 and I am having problems getting the bobbin to wind evenly..waiting on new bobbins and will try a new needle but I can see a good size nick on the plate...wish I knew the story behind that.
    dee fox
    cedar city ut and i am a fabricaholic & i have a few other addictions-scrap booking is right up there w/ fabric

  3. #39313
    Super Member craftiladi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mizkaki View Post
    Nancy,
    You got it. If there are other brands that use the sintered bearing/ bushings they also rely on regular usage to keep the oil flowing.
    BTW There are other 'self oiling' systems. I had a beautiful green Remington from the 50s that had a built in oil 'tank'. To keep it oiled you needed to push on the top on the tank occasionally and oil was delivered to all areas via tiny copper tubes that ran through the interior of the machine. Cool idea, except it was messy as oil leaked.

    Cathy
    Cathy as I reading your post I was thinking " Oh I would like a self oiler" then I read where it got messy...so many emotions to go through in a second. lol
    dee fox
    cedar city ut and i am a fabricaholic & i have a few other addictions-scrap booking is right up there w/ fabric

  4. #39314
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mizkaki View Post
    Joe,

    I believe that the other designations for these short needles are 'CC', '38Y1', '40F1', and 'Free Rotary'.
    They are still available in limited sizes and quantities from the sewing machine wholesale/ supply houses.
    If you want some let me know and I'll put them on my next order with Brewer.

    Cathy
    Cathy,
    I'll have to make a note of these numbers. The only other number besides the Kenmore 49 that I'd come up with is the Boye 2.

    Are the needles you're talking about flat shank or round shank, and do you have a pic of them? I'm curious as to what the point to the eye looks like.

    Joe

  5. #39315
    Senior Member almond's Avatar
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    White machine

    I was antique shopping in Savannah Georgia yesterday and found this White machine. The fly wheel still turns but does not move the needle up and down. They want $38.00 for it. If anyone is close and interested it can be found at 37th and Abercorn Antiques. 301 East 37th St. in Savannah. Here are pictures. Sorry Can't get pictures to download. Will try again in another posting to see if I can get it to work.
    Mary

  6. #39316
    Super Member J Miller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by grant15clone View Post
    Joe, it is a 7.9 mm Inside Diameter fuel line. Attachment 376668 ~Grant~
    Grant,

    Lets see, what's that in American ...... 3/8" I think. I used a piece of 3/8" hose to "try" and make one, but I couldn't get the hose over the shoulder of the shaft. What did you use to do that?

    Joe

  7. #39317
    Senior Member almond's Avatar
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    Pictures

    Sorry, will not let me download pictures this morning. Just keep getting upload failed.
    Mary

  8. #39318
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    Joe,

    I'll take a picture tonight after work. I'll place a CC, 206x13, and15x1 in the pix. The CC, if I remember correctly is a flat shank with a normal point. I looks like the 15x1 but the timing length (top of shank to top of eye) is shorter.

    cathy



    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Cathy,
    I'll have to make a note of these numbers. The only other number besides the Kenmore 49 that I'd come up with is the Boye 2.

    Are the needles you're talking about flat shank or round shank, and do you have a pic of them? I'm curious as to what the point to the eye looks like.

    Joe
    Cathy

    "Most sewing machine problems are due to the carbon based unit in the chair in front of the machine"

  9. #39319
    Super Member Surfergirl's Avatar
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    My son found a Singer sewing machine model #81-2 and we can't locate much info on it. Do any of you know anything about this machine? Any info would be much appreciated.
    Lynn

  10. #39320
    Senior Member grant15clone's Avatar
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    Joe, I am not sure but luckily the hose I used had those marked on it. I just checked and it seems like it is a 5/16" fuel line hose. The important part is that it is 7.9 mm Inside Diameter.
    It was not easy and was tricky and frustrating. I cut the replacement hose to size first. I put the hose on the bobbin winding post and pried from the opposite end with a small screwdriver enough to get the hose over the shoulder. I pushed the hose down using a pair of pliers enough to get it started. I took another small screwdriver and ran it between the hose and shoulder kind of like how they mount tires on a car rim while maintaining pressure on the hose with a socket from a socket set flipped up side down so the opening is down and away from the hose so the bobbin shaft could poke through it as the hose slid down. Once the hose was over the shoulder I used the pliers to work it down into position. This is all after I had removed the old rubber and cleaned up the surface of the shaft where the old rubber was. It did not need any adhesives as the rubber was good and tight on it.Name:  fuelhose.jpg
Views: 139
Size:  64.5 KB I hope this helps. Good luck! ~G~


    Quote Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
    Grant,

    Lets see, what's that in American ...... 3/8" I think. I used a piece of 3/8" hose to "try" and make one, but I couldn't get the hose over the shoulder of the shaft. What did you use to do that?

    Joe

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