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Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

Old 04-02-2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
Boiled linseed oil is what you what and lighter fluid for a cig lighter is a good sub for naptha. You ladies have been sniffing sewing machine oil today???? You guys are on a role here...
~giggle~ It's YOUR fault Glenn...all that naptha, shellac and linseed oil.....
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by miriam View Post
don't blame me I was working.
Riiiiiiiiight... uh huh! So am I!
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:20 PM
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I just got home from Lowe's...... denatured alcohol, naptha, Linseed oil and spray shellac in hand. So I'm ready to try the clean-up on the old machine.

Glenn, can you tell me how to tell if the current finish is shellac or something else? and...... can you tell me details about adding shellac if the finish is gone. I just need to know before I do something awful. Thanks.
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:42 PM
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Put alcohol on rag and touch to the finish in place where it will not be seen usually on the rear arm where the motor boss would be. If the finish gets tacky or soft then it is shellac. If nothing happens then it is a varnish of somekind and this tech will not work. You can spray on the clear shellac or you can use finger and rag. Did finger in a little shellac with a couple of drops of linseed oil and lightly rub on the finish in a circular motion then lift your finger and go over lightly in one direction.

Most machines 60 years + will normally be shellac. This shellac clear coat was applied to protect the decals and make the japan black shine a little. Hope this helpr you. Skip
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:57 PM
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Thanks so much. The machine I'm wanting to try this on is an 1899 Singer Model 27. At least that's what Charlee said she thought it would be. I still have a stuck stitch regulator but everything else is working well. And I'll keep working on her till she's feeling healthy again..... she's getting better every day. Since I learned on a treadle machine so many years ago she'll be a fun memory back. Thanks again, Jean (nanna-up-north)
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:05 PM
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Jean your clear coat on this machine is shellac. You are ready to start working and having fun. Skip
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:07 PM
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I was playing/ sorting some sewing machine needles this afternoon.
The differences are amazing. I shot a picture of a few of them.I
thought some of you might like to see the picture.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]324808[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails needle-comparisons.jpg  
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:13 PM
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[QUOTE=Mizkaki;5111400]I was playing/ sorting some sewing machine needles this afternoon.
The differences are amazing. I shot a picture of a few of them.I
thought some of you might like to see the picture.

Thank you for the needle info, I did not know the the 190R could sub as a Davis long. Skip
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:29 PM
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Glenn,

The Davis long is a flat shank needle while the MTx190 is round. This does not seem to make much difference in the smaller sizes. With the larger sizes the needle is pushed closer to the other side of the needle hole and could rub it. The round shank will push the scarf slightly further from the hook so there is a slight chance of skipping stitches. The people over at Yahoo's WeFixIt group and Treadleon have found this needle to be an OK substitute. Joe has tried this MTx190 in a size 12 and says it works well.

Cathy





[QUOTE=Glenn;5111419]
Originally Posted by Mizkaki View Post
I was playing/ sorting some sewing machine needles this afternoon.
The differences are amazing. I shot a picture of a few of them.I
thought some of you might like to see the picture.

Thank you for the needle info, I did not know the the 190R could sub as a Davis long. Skip
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:34 PM
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Glad to konw this Cathy, I have always used a 15X1 and cheated it down with very good results. I made a guide and marked them so I know how far to lower them in the clamp. Although I have a stash of Davis longs I am stingy with them lol Skip
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