Candace

Claudia, I'm not Joe, LOL. But if your foot pedal is hard to use and you have to push on it to the floor, it sounds like more an issue of your foot control than your motor.

It also sounds like you could play with the pressure on your pressure foot. Try increasing it or decreasing it to see if that helps.

redbugsullivan

That's just it! Nothing is bent. I've looked at my before/after shots of the broken area. The man did an excellent job and even greased the bearings for me. I have $75 into it. Not worth buying another machine to make this one work. I think I'll try some wood slats. Even though I am very short, it would be better than cutting on the wood!

Candace

This auction for a Pfaff 230 is very curious. Interesting add ons! It looks like an external motor and hand crank capability?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phaff-230-Se...#ht_720wt_1206

melinda1962

Wow!! I downloaded the manual to my $10 Babylock serger I got yard saling, and you can chain-stitch with it. That is awesome for some of the projects I take on, like fitting bride's and bridemaid's gowns, then permanently sewing on top, or easier ripping out. Most of the girls are so excited, and want to be measured today for a wedding in 6 months, and they change in the meantime, and are tough to fit sometimes. This will make it easier to alter for sure, and is very fast, so can just straight-up use it for linings and such.

melinda1962

That is cool!! That is one tough machine, and looks prettier than mine for sure. All those knobs and dials are crazy. I had downloaded the manual for mine, and when I got it to straight stitch, I left it alone. Mine came with the original set of attachments, including a Pfaff hopping quilting foot, and it is easy to use. I like the idea of the hand crank too for it. Neat.

J Miller

Claudia,

When I first get hold of a new to me machine I turn it by hand to see if it functions. If it does I may plug it in and test sew with it .... ~or~ I may break out the oil and grease. Yours sounds like it needs oil and motor lube.
I've been told that the feed dogs should not sit higher than the thickness of a dime, U.S. or 5 p coin , UK. I bet they don't. It sounds to me like they are sticking and not moving back and forth and up and down.
Have you cleaned bobbin area and under the needle plate?
Clean it, oil it, lube the motor with Singer lube in the tube only, then try it.

Does this machine have the Singer foot controller with the little button beside the hump? They are adjustable inside. I've worked with a couple of them and sometimes they respond nicely, other times they don't. They are just a carbon pile type controller and can get really dirty inside. The contacts can become burnt and corroded too.

So clean, clean, clean, lube and oil is the first thing to do.

Joe

jennb

So...im heading out when hubby gets home to pick up an immaculate featherweight i just scored off Craigslist for 100 bucks. Yeah they know its worth more but are desperate for cash. Im not going to keep it so if anyone is interested I'll post pics when i get back. Otherwise its going to go up on ebay tomorrow.

BoJangles

Sorry everyone, I am a couple days behind in reading all the posts, but Candace I got the 260 back out and tried sewing with the knee control using the cord from the Sterling.

I thought about it all night and it just had me more and more confused because as you know the foot/knee control is what changes/controls speed. I thought about what the guy from A-1 Sewing said and it didn't make sense to me the more I thought about it. Anyway, I got the machine out this morning and tried sewing with the cord from the Sterling and the knee control. It sews just fine, which makes more sense when you think about the fact that the resistors in the knee control are what causes the speed to change depending on how hard you push down. Now I am more confused - I know we are all learning but you'd think a sewing repair guy would know what he was talking about?

I tried taking some more photos of the underside, but I can't follow the white cord all the way without taking the machine apart. The blue cord goes from the plug to the light and motor. The white cord, which is what the knee control is attached to must go to the plug too - I can't follow it all the way in.[ATTACH=CONFIG]344819[/ATTACH] I still see no need for the slanted/wonky side of the plug. I will try to get the correct cord, but I don't see what it does unless the knee control and the foot pedal are wired differently? I would like to get a true foot pedal and correct cord and see if it even works with the knee control hard wired into that plug?

Nancy

jlhmnj

Hi Nancy,

Picture the crazy plug combo as a Singer double lead cord. The wonky side is for foot controller IF USED. Your knee bar is getting power from the power cord and doesn't need the foot controller to operate. My guess is if you get a foot controller and splice it into the upstream knee bar wiring it should work. Probably other ways to do this also. Good Luck and hope an original cord turns up

Jon

miriam

I still think that the 2 prong cord is all you need. I think it is wired that way from the start - I highly doubt if the OSMG would redo one and it hasn't been disturbed in a very long time... I bet it came that way for some reason. Weird isn't it.