Welcome to the Quilting Board!

Already a member? Login above
loginabove
OR
To post questions, help other quilters and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our quilting community. It's free!

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 3 4
Results 31 to 34 of 34

Thread: Why Tri-flow?

  1. #31
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL.
    Posts
    265
    Yeah I figured that was the case with the lube and big stores. No demand because I don't think some quilters (especially in this town) even hold onto their machines lOng enough to oil and grease them. They want the latest and greatest it seems. But I thought it was funny, the other day I asked the Viking dealer in my Joanne's (can you tell that's like the only fabric store within 40 minutes of me?) if they knew of any "vintage" sewing repairmen, she came back at me and said "define vintage?" I answered 60's or 70's her reply was " like featherweight vintage." finally I told her the make and model of the machine an promptly added that I could fix a featherweight on my own. Turns out the guy won't touch my touch and sew. I'll see about giving her some attention once I come back from this trip.
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle
    Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight
    my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758
    Flower, Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66
    Singer 99K
    Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  2. #32
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    2,712
    Won't touch it? That's pretty sad. I wonder what puts him off, the self winding bobbin, or the "old" part. 60s and 70s is FW era? Technically they were manufactured to 1970, but their heyday sure wasn't the hippie era.
    You're best off doing all your maintenance yourself if that's what the local shop is saying...
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

  3. #33
    Junior Member Kittywolf13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL.
    Posts
    265
    Yeah I thought the same thing about the featherweight and being the same era. I was just curious really to know if I had the potential to have a back up plan for my touch & sew guess im looking at determination as a back up. Lol
    Proud owner of: Eleanor, a 1896 Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Treadle
    Tucci, a 1952 Singer Featherweight
    my mothers Singer Touch & Sew 758
    Flower, Brother XR 6060
    1910 Singer 66
    Singer 99K
    Shadow, 1929 Singer 128 (currently w/hand crank)

  4. #34
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Central Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    2,712
    I think determination and a certain quilting board can get you through it.
    Tammi - I've found that many baby steps tend to get you further than a huge leap in followed by a huge leap out - http://www.archaicarcane.com
    Singer 411G, 301A, 2x 221 (featherweight), 222k - the holy grail, 15-90 Centennial, 27, VS2, 28 hc, 128 knee bar, 201-2, 31-15, Pfaff 130-6. Non-Vintage - Pfaff 6122, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81595 serger, Kenmore (Janome) 385.81155, 2013 APQS Lucey

Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 3 4

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

SEO by vBSEO ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.