basting for free motion quilting
08-17-2011, 07:36 AM
#31
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Prescott Valley, AZ
Posts: 1,329
Good luck, Dorothy in PA. I pin baste everything. For something like a table topper or runner I use fine long straight pins. For larger items I use curved safety pins. I just take out pins in a small area ahead of where I am going.
08-17-2011, 09:12 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Shipshewana, IN
Posts: 775
Originally Posted by BeckyL
Spray adhesive 505. If you haven't tried it yet, you are in for a pleasant surprise. There is also fusible batting that is also good to work with.
08-17-2011, 09:26 AM
#34
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: northern California
Posts: 1,098
I tried pinning (ouch), spraying (gag), etc., but for free motion quilting (on my domestic machine) I have settled on this for all sizes of quilts:
1) The backing needs to be secured either with spray or with fusible fleece (I love the fusible)
2) pin the front in wide set rows as far apart as the fabric will allow, perhaps 10" apart, allowing for the directions you want to stitch (see below);
3) starting in the middle and with a slow speed, machine baste with long stitches (about 3" long) and work to the corners first; this allows you to insure that your fabric is still smooth. Sometimes I find myself even stopping, straightening the fabric (or the way it last stitched) and going on from there. It's best to have an idea of your final plan so you don't baste where you want to put your final quilting stitches, but the basting is easy to pull out if you do overlap.
4) when both sides have been checked, choose the stitch you want and quilt where you want.
This almost takes as long to do as to put the procedure down here!
Hope this is helpful.
1) The backing needs to be secured either with spray or with fusible fleece (I love the fusible)
2) pin the front in wide set rows as far apart as the fabric will allow, perhaps 10" apart, allowing for the directions you want to stitch (see below);
3) starting in the middle and with a slow speed, machine baste with long stitches (about 3" long) and work to the corners first; this allows you to insure that your fabric is still smooth. Sometimes I find myself even stopping, straightening the fabric (or the way it last stitched) and going on from there. It's best to have an idea of your final plan so you don't baste where you want to put your final quilting stitches, but the basting is easy to pull out if you do overlap.
4) when both sides have been checked, choose the stitch you want and quilt where you want.
This almost takes as long to do as to put the procedure down here!
Hope this is helpful.
08-17-2011, 10:30 AM
#37
Super Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Round Rock,Texas
Posts: 6,135
Originally Posted by totosmom
Good morning. I've been practicing my FMQ for a while now and feel I am ready to tackle that table runner I'm working on. For a normal quilt, I have always pin basted it together, but for FMQ, I'm thinking that just won't work.
So, for those of you who have done this before, how would you baste a table runner for FMQ? I'm eager to hear all the possibilities.
Dorothy in PA
So, for those of you who have done this before, how would you baste a table runner for FMQ? I'm eager to hear all the possibilities.
Dorothy in PA
Sharon W.
08-17-2011, 11:03 AM
#39
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Renton, WA
Posts: 2,045
I haven't tried spray basting, but I always pin baste for FMQing. I try to pin around my marked motif so I don't have to move pins to quilt. I do remove them before I get to them if the space is just too tight. I have heard good things about spray basting, but with the expense and the mess, I don't think it is for me.
08-17-2011, 11:08 AM
#40
Power Poster
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Mableton, GA
Posts: 11,194
Originally Posted by Sierra
I tried pinning (ouch), spraying (gag), etc., but for free motion quilting (on my domestic machine) I have settled on this for all sizes of quilts:
1) The backing needs to be secured either with spray or with fusible fleece (I love the fusible)
2) pin the front in wide set rows as far apart as the fabric will allow, perhaps 10" apart, allowing for the directions you want to stitch (see below);
3) starting in the middle and with a slow speed, machine baste with long stitches (about 3" long) and work to the corners first; this allows you to insure that your fabric is still smooth. Sometimes I find myself even stopping, straightening the fabric (or the way it last stitched) and going on from there. It's best to have an idea of your final plan so you don't baste where you want to put your final quilting stitches, but the basting is easy to pull out if you do overlap.
4) when both sides have been checked, choose the stitch you want and quilt where you want.
This almost takes as long to do as to put the procedure down here!
Hope this is helpful.
1) The backing needs to be secured either with spray or with fusible fleece (I love the fusible)
2) pin the front in wide set rows as far apart as the fabric will allow, perhaps 10" apart, allowing for the directions you want to stitch (see below);
3) starting in the middle and with a slow speed, machine baste with long stitches (about 3" long) and work to the corners first; this allows you to insure that your fabric is still smooth. Sometimes I find myself even stopping, straightening the fabric (or the way it last stitched) and going on from there. It's best to have an idea of your final plan so you don't baste where you want to put your final quilting stitches, but the basting is easy to pull out if you do overlap.
4) when both sides have been checked, choose the stitch you want and quilt where you want.
This almost takes as long to do as to put the procedure down here!
Hope this is helpful.
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