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    Old 04-08-2013, 11:46 AM
      #51  
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    I have made several log cabin quilts and just use my 6 x 24" ruler.
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    Old 04-08-2013, 12:57 PM
      #52  
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    Where do you find PP log cabins? I've only seen the small,miniature size.
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    Old 04-10-2013, 05:47 AM
      #53  
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    Thanks for the info, Jan!
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    Old 04-10-2013, 07:23 AM
      #54  
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    Originally Posted by Jan in VA
    I've been making and teaching the log cabin quilt for decades and have developed a system that I use and teach in classes that has students saying, "for the first time I LIKE log cabin!"

    1. I NEVER cut individual logs. I strip piece. My logs are cut as narrow as 1 and 1/8 for personal use, 1&1/4 to 1& 1/2 in classes. I make my hearth block (the center) either the same size and the strips or a slight amount larger. I have also cut the center much larger - 3" - and used that space for particular quilting designs.

    2. I square up the block after every round. One round = four logs added. I use, and require in my classes, the Bias Square 8 square ruler from That Patchwork Place. It is the ONLY ruler on the market marked with a solid 1/8" lines at right angles in every inch. This allows you to trim the tiniest amount off each side of the block at each round. I make sure the diagonal line on this ruler runs through opposite corners of the center square when I begin to trim. This trick allows you to maintain the straightness, the square setting, of the finished block. **Because the log cabin is traditionally pieced in concentric circles, it is quite easy to cause the block to skew....just like you have when you are working needlepoint - the piece becomes trapezoidal shaped from the constant direction of the stitches.** When you are able to keep two adjoining sides of a square at right angles, then you will keep the block square.

    3. I press every log away from the hearth (center square). This allows me to turn the block over and measure on the back, no matter where I am in its construction, no matter how long ago I stopped working on the blocks, and start right off making more blocks exactly the same size. I don't even have to write down what size I cut the center because I can just measure it easily on the wrong side of the block.

    4. I always work at squaring up from the wrong side of the block. This allows me to keep the center and logs at the same place on the square up ruler, making all the blocks the same size.

    5. When/if the last round creates a block larger than 8" (and it often does), I use one of the models of Olipfa brand 12&1/2" square up rulers that has the same 1/8" markings in two directions that the Bias Square 8 has in the 8" ruler.

    I travel to teach workshops, you know!

    Jan in VA
    Jan, do you mind sending the attachment (picture of the ruler) to me privately. For some reason I cannot save it to this computer. My right click is not working.
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    Old 04-10-2013, 07:26 AM
      #55  
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    Originally Posted by Pepita
    I would really like to recommend that you cut your strips raw edge to raw edge, not selvage to selvage. You end up with a much more stable piece of fabric that works beautifully when piecing.
    It has been a while since I made a Log Cabin quilt, but I believe this is what I did. Then, to keep my strips in order, I rolled them into rolls and stored them by color.
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    Old 04-10-2013, 07:51 AM
      #56  
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    Originally Posted by GramMER
    ............. My right click is not working.
    I'm not Jan, but as a general 'computer thing', you can always do a ctrl-alt-prt sc (control-alt-print screen all at the same time) which copies what ever you see on the screen. Then open up your graphics program (MS Paint is one) and then 'paste' the image you copied. Then 'save as' and give the image a name.
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