Featherweight Question
03-04-2010, 09:26 PM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,981
My first one I bought. I got for $180, it is in really great condition. I did take it to the guy here that does featherweights to check it out. It was perfect, but it was also the one with the smelly case. If you look on line you will find the musty smell is pretty normal on a lot of the machines. They explain about the felt in the bottom of the machines, use to catch oil and if they stay closed up, which mine had been, that smell gets in the case, but the machines are usually fine.http://antiquescollectibles.suite101...eight_221_case
Originally Posted by ForestHobbit
Thank you Shaverg. Have been looking on ebay so probably won't be able to check one in person.
03-05-2010, 08:17 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Yosemite
Posts: 731
I took a maintance class a few months ago and the teacher has two methods she uses to remove the smell. The smell is mildew/mold and heat will kill it. I haven't tried either one yet on my case. I'll probably use the second option. First one is turning on your oven to 200-225 and putting the case in with the oven door closed for 12-18 hours. Second is putting a 40 watt light in the case with the lid propped open and inch or so. She makes a hanger for the cord out of a ruler the tapes the light to it so it doesn't touch the inside of the box. Set it in a covered area outside the house and leave it for 18-24 hours. Like I said I haven't tried either method but she's used both for many years. She owns about thirty at any given time with buying, selling and trading them.
03-05-2010, 08:56 AM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 1,046
I won't dispute the premise that heat will kill the mold, but the heat will also dry out the glue that holds the liner in place. Not only that, but it will further dry the wood that the case is made of and make it even more brittle than it already is. Liners frequently roll up and peel away anyway. The box wood is very thin and could easily crack, especially on the top.
With our collection, we do leave them open to air, then crumple newspaper to leave inside for a few days. A dryer sheet left inside will freshen it up, but those that REALLY smell just won't get better. I would never buy one that has that awful odor. I bought one to try and NOTHING worked. As we all know, the only way to get rid of mold is to completely remove it. If it remains, it will come back. Unfortunately, you can't remove it without destroying the originality of the box. You can't replace the original liner.
With our collection, we do leave them open to air, then crumple newspaper to leave inside for a few days. A dryer sheet left inside will freshen it up, but those that REALLY smell just won't get better. I would never buy one that has that awful odor. I bought one to try and NOTHING worked. As we all know, the only way to get rid of mold is to completely remove it. If it remains, it will come back. Unfortunately, you can't remove it without destroying the originality of the box. You can't replace the original liner.
03-05-2010, 10:52 AM
#14
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Home town: Rehoboth, MA Now living in OK
Posts: 7,774
Originally Posted by shequilts
It's a good thing for the decals (gold) to be intact, but they aren't always, Where the right hand lays on the machine usually wears away the gold. Also, the faceplate on the end of the machine may be either striated or scrolled. The scroll plate is the most collectible. They were made prior to the war. After the war began, they required less metal for the straight striated plate.
Age is not really a price factor unless its a centennial edition machine. You can determine this by looking at the little decal on the front right of the machine. The centennial medallion is circled in blue vs. black on the other models. Centennial models demand a greater price because of the relative rarity.
The plug where the cord plugs into the machine should be inspected for damage. These are easily broken when the plug is removed. The cord should always be removed straight away from the machine to prevent cracking/breaking the plug. A replacement plug can cost 25-35 dollars.
Look at the black carrying case. Inspect it for an intact handle. The older ones were leather, new or reproduction ones are frequently plastic. Smell the box. If it smells moldy, don't buy it. There may be a faint smell of old glue. (Glue was made from horses hooves.)
Accessories include a variety of pressor feet, a few small tools, (i.e. screwdrivers, foot screws, etc.) It's always good to have an manual with the machine. Many people take them out and sell them independently from the machines.
Also check the bobbin and bobbin case. The bobbin case (where the bobbin fits into the machine) must be there and be intact. These can become bent and therefore useless. The bobbin itself is subject to being bent if dropped. If this happens, it's also trash. Replacing a bobbin case is expensive. Most sellers remove the bobbin while displaying the machines because they are frequently stolen. Alos, check for a key. They are hard to find, but they are out there. The little black case originally had a key for the two locks on them.
I hope this info helps you in your search. Please feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.
Age is not really a price factor unless its a centennial edition machine. You can determine this by looking at the little decal on the front right of the machine. The centennial medallion is circled in blue vs. black on the other models. Centennial models demand a greater price because of the relative rarity.
The plug where the cord plugs into the machine should be inspected for damage. These are easily broken when the plug is removed. The cord should always be removed straight away from the machine to prevent cracking/breaking the plug. A replacement plug can cost 25-35 dollars.
Look at the black carrying case. Inspect it for an intact handle. The older ones were leather, new or reproduction ones are frequently plastic. Smell the box. If it smells moldy, don't buy it. There may be a faint smell of old glue. (Glue was made from horses hooves.)
Accessories include a variety of pressor feet, a few small tools, (i.e. screwdrivers, foot screws, etc.) It's always good to have an manual with the machine. Many people take them out and sell them independently from the machines.
Also check the bobbin and bobbin case. The bobbin case (where the bobbin fits into the machine) must be there and be intact. These can become bent and therefore useless. The bobbin itself is subject to being bent if dropped. If this happens, it's also trash. Replacing a bobbin case is expensive. Most sellers remove the bobbin while displaying the machines because they are frequently stolen. Alos, check for a key. They are hard to find, but they are out there. The little black case originally had a key for the two locks on them.
I hope this info helps you in your search. Please feel free to contact me if you have any further questions.
03-05-2010, 01:33 PM
#15
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Wishing I was in the Sierra Nevada's
Posts: 739
Have found a nice little machine with a problem. Not ready to purchase anything yet but would ask your opinion on how serious the problem may be. This is what the ad said.
1949 Singer 221-1 Featherweight Sewing Machine w/ Case and Extras (see photos for all contents of auction). The machine's serial number is AJ219678. This item appeared to be in fine working order when we first got it in a month back but now the needle is not moving with the foot pedal. The light turns on. When the pedal is pressed, the machine sounds like it is trying to work but the needle does not move.
Does this sound like a probably easy to fix problem or a pain in the kudzu that will cause hate and consternation.
Sounds like something is either frozen up or jammed.
1949 Singer 221-1 Featherweight Sewing Machine w/ Case and Extras (see photos for all contents of auction). The machine's serial number is AJ219678. This item appeared to be in fine working order when we first got it in a month back but now the needle is not moving with the foot pedal. The light turns on. When the pedal is pressed, the machine sounds like it is trying to work but the needle does not move.
Does this sound like a probably easy to fix problem or a pain in the kudzu that will cause hate and consternation.
Sounds like something is either frozen up or jammed.
03-05-2010, 04:57 PM
#16
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,981
Mine was not mold, it was the smell that had soaked in from the felt drip pad in the bottom of the featherweights that collect the oil, that is where most of the smell comes from. I don't think the wood could be any dryer, it is over 50 years old. The glue had already started to come loose the best way to fix the glued area is dampen the paper lining and add elmers glue while it is damp, it will make the paper lining draw really taught when it dries and you cannot even tell it has been reglued. I have done this for several years. the case looks like a brand new case, I keep it polished and aired. Unless you actually see mold in the case and on the machine the smell is pretty normal, especially if it has been stored and the felt pad had not been changed in the machine. My grandmothers smelled just like that, stored in a dry place it was just from the oil pad.We have 3 2 had the smell, now almost completely gone and all three beautiful, perfect machine, never have been repaired.
Originally Posted by shequilts
I won't dispute the premise that heat will kill the mold, but the heat will also dry out the glue that holds the liner in place. Not only that, but it will further dry the wood that the case is made of and make it even more brittle than it already is. Liners frequently roll up and peel away anyway. The box wood is very thin and could easily crack, especially on the top.
With our collection, we do leave them open to air, then crumple newspaper to leave inside for a few days. A dryer sheet left inside will freshen it up, but those that REALLY smell just won't get better. I would never buy one that has that awful odor. I bought one to try and NOTHING worked. As we all know, the only way to get rid of mold is to completely remove it. If it remains, it will come back. Unfortunately, you can't remove it without destroying the originality of the box. You can't replace the original liner.
With our collection, we do leave them open to air, then crumple newspaper to leave inside for a few days. A dryer sheet left inside will freshen it up, but those that REALLY smell just won't get better. I would never buy one that has that awful odor. I bought one to try and NOTHING worked. As we all know, the only way to get rid of mold is to completely remove it. If it remains, it will come back. Unfortunately, you can't remove it without destroying the originality of the box. You can't replace the original liner.
03-05-2010, 06:11 PM
#17
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: la la land
Posts: 2,173
i own 6 featherweights. 1 is a cent, 1 is white. by far is my favorite is my first one her name is abby. abby was roughly used and dented she was made in 1934. i just love her but truely they all sew wonderfully. :thumbup: living in alaska makes for difficult shipping. have a blast looking for just the right "baby" to come along. i got wine woman her connections for hers on craigs list. that is a great place to start esp. if they are in your area. i have found more featherweights are available in the mid west. let us see what you come up with. ooohhh this i so exciting!
03-05-2010, 06:20 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Wishing I was in the Sierra Nevada's
Posts: 739
Thanks Alaskasunshine. I am in California and we do have Craig's list. Have only found 2 featherweights so far and they were priced quite high. Am doing much better on ebay. Found one I am in love with and already calling her Sally Sue that will end on Sunday. She is a beauty. Hope the price stays in my budget. Keeping my fingers and everything else crossed until the final bell rings.
03-05-2010, 06:32 PM
#19
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 1,981
ForestHobbit, I am in California too. I found mine on ebay from an estate sale in Georgia, ended up getting if for 180, in perfect condition, just need some very light cleaning, all the decals were perfect. You are right they are pretty high here in California. At the Road2CA show, some guy from Kansas showed up with a booth selling plain old featherweights for 1400+. I don't know if he thought since our prices on everything here are pretty high if we were uninformed and would pay that kind of price. We were there for the three days, didn't see a lot of machines leaving his booth. I had to laugh.
I have seen alot of them at shows from locals for 400+, that is still a little high unless it is a Centennial. I have also looked on Craig's list, no luck, even the old treadles are really pricey. Be patient sometimes it is harder to get a good deal on the ones closing out on the weekend with ebay. I actually had my highest bid at 225, on the machine I got and forgot about it, it closed out during the night and surprise, surprise.
I am still wanting a white one at some point.
I have seen alot of them at shows from locals for 400+, that is still a little high unless it is a Centennial. I have also looked on Craig's list, no luck, even the old treadles are really pricey. Be patient sometimes it is harder to get a good deal on the ones closing out on the weekend with ebay. I actually had my highest bid at 225, on the machine I got and forgot about it, it closed out during the night and surprise, surprise.
I am still wanting a white one at some point.
Originally Posted by ForestHobbit
Thanks Alaskasunshine. I am in California and we do have Craig's list. Have only found 2 featherweights so far and they were priced quite high. Am doing much better on ebay. Found one I am in love with and already calling her Sally Sue that will end on Sunday. She is a beauty. Hope the price stays in my budget. Keeping my fingers and everything else crossed until the final bell rings.
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