How many stitches per inch for piecework and why?
#1
How many stitches per inch for piecework and why?
New here and thanks in advance for info. Hate to ask old questions again, but here goes!
While experimenting with our 201 hand crank, it quickly became apparent that cranking can indeed get tiring. But so be it. Now when I am joining top pieces, what is an accepted number of stitches per inch? All cotton material and thread, with a 1/4 inch seam allowance is planned. Just looking, it seems to be a good compromise at 10 stitches per inch. This allows me significant progress, and provided I maintain proper tension, a good snug stitch too. 7 per inch seems weak, and 14 seems to be overkill. Yes these are the questions of a man used to working in fractions of a thousandth of an inch precision, and the decision may be "just up to me" . Thoughts please? Don
While experimenting with our 201 hand crank, it quickly became apparent that cranking can indeed get tiring. But so be it. Now when I am joining top pieces, what is an accepted number of stitches per inch? All cotton material and thread, with a 1/4 inch seam allowance is planned. Just looking, it seems to be a good compromise at 10 stitches per inch. This allows me significant progress, and provided I maintain proper tension, a good snug stitch too. 7 per inch seems weak, and 14 seems to be overkill. Yes these are the questions of a man used to working in fractions of a thousandth of an inch precision, and the decision may be "just up to me" . Thoughts please? Don
#2
Well, Don, I had no idea, so I just sewed an inch and counted how many stitches. Eleven is what I use, apparently. That is when my machine is set to 2.5 (thought, to be honest, I don't know what type measurement that is...) That is the stitch length that my machine automatically starts with.
So...I suspect it is whatever feels best to you. But you knew that.
Dina
So...I suspect it is whatever feels best to you. But you knew that.
Dina
#4
Dina I would say the 2.5 is probably millimeters. Is yours a European or Asian machine? I think 10 per inch will catch 7 to 10 threads of the materials I have looked at with each stitch. That should be plenty secure I'm hoping. Don't laugh folks. Again, I'm used to high precision metal work with blueprint specifications. I will have to struggle to leave that mode of thought behind......Don
Last edited by Tallbald; 11-11-2012 at 07:03 AM. Reason: add info
#5
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for regular piecing i generally use 10-12 stitches per inch- 16-18 for paper piecing (makes it easier to tear away the paper) and 4-7 for basting (makes it easier to remove them) i think alot of machines have a default setting at 2.5 which comes out to 10-12. i may lengthen it a bit if it's a heavy flannel- or tighten a bit if a home spun or fabric with a looser weave that is still thin.
#6
for regular piecing i generally use 10-12 stitches per inch- 16-18 for paper piecing (makes it easier to tear away the paper) and 4-7 for basting (makes it easier to remove them) i think alot of machines have a default setting at 2.5 which comes out to 10-12. i may lengthen it a bit if it's a heavy flannel- or tighten a bit if a home spun or fabric with a looser weave that is still thin.
#9
Dina I would say the 2.5 is probably millimeters. Is yours a European or Asian machine? I think 10 per inch will catch 7 to 10 threads of the materials I have looked at with each stitch. That should be plenty secure I'm hoping. Don't laugh folks. Again, I'm used to high precision metal work with blueprint specifications. I will have to struggle to leave that mode of thought behind......Don
At any rate, it sounds like you have several good answers.
Dina
#10
I had to go check...I'm at 16 stitches per inch...1.8 on my Janome 6600.
I think for piecing you want your stitches short enough that they don't fall apart
when pressing/handling but long enough that you can unstitch if you have to.
I also don't backstitch for piecing (contrary to garment sewing) thus I prefer the
shortest stitch I can manage.
I think for piecing you want your stitches short enough that they don't fall apart
when pressing/handling but long enough that you can unstitch if you have to.
I also don't backstitch for piecing (contrary to garment sewing) thus I prefer the
shortest stitch I can manage.
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