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Old 09-11-2011, 08:22 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by quilter1430
Fudge when you have to. Fabric has a lot of give and take, so make it work for you. Instead of pins, I use my fingers to feel the two seams intersect, pinch it together, and work through the machine. After a while, feeling the two seams lock becomes second nature. My seams are usually perfect with this method.
That is just what I do-but I still use pins to hold it
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:35 AM
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It's something we all struggle with. We starch, pin, ease and rip but sometimes a point will be cut off or a corner not match. If you do need to ease a square, put the larger piece on the bottom next to the feed dogs. The feed dogs take up a little more fabric than the fabric on the top. Keep at it and you will get better.
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:18 AM
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Welcome from Michigan!!
Here are some tutorials from this board that may help.
1/4" Seams:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-89997-1.htm
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-122374-1.htm
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-150279-1.htm

Pressing tips:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/t-149984-1.htm
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Old 09-11-2011, 09:28 AM
  #14  
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As said, you need a few things in order: accurate cutting, accurate lining the fabrics and precise sewing. I will bring in something new: reduce the size of the thread to the smallest you can deal with. Some machines can not work with very small threads, so use the thinnest you can. Another thing I always do is not to press my seams open. I press to set the seams after I sew them, but never press them open. I find that it distort the fabrics and I can not match anything after that. I just finger press.
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:04 AM
  #15  
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My half square triangles and flying geese are always made over sized and then cut down to size. No more trouble with seams that dont match, they just go togather perfect.
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Old 09-11-2011, 04:04 PM
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I read all the responses but didn't see this recommendation. Sounds like you aren't using a IDT or walking foot. the IDT is a built in walking foot on several different brands of machines, where the 'walking foot' can be a separate gadget you attach yourself. It pulls the top fabric at the same time as it pulls the bottom fabric so it feeds together and makes matching seams so much easier.
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:05 PM
  #17  
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pin on both sides of the seams when matching up at intersections.
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:07 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by quilter1430
Fudge when you have to. Fabric has a lot of give and take, so make it work for you. Instead of pins, I use my fingers to feel the two seams intersect, pinch it together, and work through the machine. After a while, feeling the two seams lock becomes second nature. My seams are usually perfect with this method.
ditto :)
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:10 PM
  #19  
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One thing that I just learned by trial and error.... having the grain match on both blocks you are sewing together. For example, on a plain square one side will stretch, and one side will not. Sew together the sides that don't stretch first!
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:25 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ghostrider
Consistent seams, sharp pressing, nesting and pinning both sides of the seam, gently easing in (with pinning) any differences and practice...you'll get there, not to worry. It'll become second nature, I promise. :D
I'd add to that using starch/Best Press to press before sewing if you have any problems. Pinning on either side of the seam is a great help, too.

ali
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