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Need advice on hand sewing needles.

Need advice on hand sewing needles.

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Old 06-14-2013, 08:48 AM
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Question Need advice on hand sewing needles.

I am in the process of binding a quilt by hand, normally an easy peasy job for me. However, I have developed peripheral neuropathy in my hands (due to long term Vit. B12 deficiency), and not only do they hurt, but I just don't have the dexterity I used to have, so I've really been struggling with this binding. I'm doing it well, but it's difficult.

What would really help is a longer, thinner, strong needle. I tried the applique needles, and just could cope -- too short. I've gone through 7 needles since starting this binding. The longer ones are so thick that they're hard to pull through the fabric. I did finally find one that was thinner, and 1.5 inches long, and that's helping. However, it would be better with a longer needle, but one that is still thin and sharp. Is there such a thing? The needle wouldn't have to be too much longer. Even a 2 inch needle would be an improvement. I'm finding that the longer needles are so much easier for me to manipulate. I'm all thumbs with those applique needles.

I am getting physical therapy, and my B12 deficiency is being treated aggressively, so I should get better, not worse. But I'll never be able to use a short needle again, and I don't want to give up all hand work on quilts. Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated.

Last edited by MacThayer; 06-14-2013 at 08:51 AM. Reason: corrections
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:27 AM
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Have you tried a beading needle. They are thinner and break easier but they are long and sharp.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:41 AM
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I have a similar problem and can't use short needles anymore. I have two favorite
needles. One is a Roxanne basting needle and the other one I'm not sure which
brand (I've been using the same needle for such a long time). The difference
between the two needles is that one is slightly longer and thinner than the other
and one has a bigger eye - good for burying threads. I'll be watching this thread
because I could use a slightly shorter needle too.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:52 AM
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I've tried several needles and my all-time favorite, especially for binding, is the John James Sharps, size 10.

Some needles are hard to pull through the fabric not just because they're large, but also because of the kind of coating (or not) they have. After using good quality needles and pins, I cannot stand Dritz products. They feel like they drag. I used Roxanne needles for a while, but they have a tendency to bend so I save them for applique.
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:21 AM
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I like using straw needles for hand piecing and hand appliqué. They're longer than sharps and seem to go through the fabric easier for me.


Janet
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Hinterland View Post
I like using straw needles for hand piecing and hand appliqué. They're longer than sharps and seem to go through the fabric easier for me.


Janet
Yes I was going to suggest the straw needles, they are the easiest for me too.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:33 PM
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milner's or straw needles are nice & long, thin/fine and strong- some people use them for beading. I do a lot of hand work with milner's (depends on the brand if they are called milner or straw) I generally use John James milner's in 10's or 12's...nice sharp needles.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:01 PM
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I use Foxglove Cottage straw needles, 10 or 11. The downside is they are so thin, the eyes are teeny and they can be difficult to thread, so that's something to think about.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:17 PM
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I'm not sure of the "hows" of a longer needle helping but I too have some small needle issues. Have good and bad days with gripping and pulling the needle. It seems that I can't grip the needle tight enough to make it do what I want on the down days. Putting finger cots on my thumb and pointer seems to make the needle behave better and makes it more doable. But thanks for all the info on slippery needles -- will be checking them out -- hopefully will extend my sewing days by leaps and bounds.
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:49 PM
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Ricky Tim's has a method of machine sewing a piping type of binding on...without any hand sewing involved.
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