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You are so right about needle size and speed. Also thread size and needle size must be compatible.
Originally Posted by soccertxi
(Post 5676267)
My 1st reaction is to ask what size needle you are using? I have found that most new machine quilters are using a needle that is too small for the speed and friction of machine quilting. I would suggest a top stitch or jeans needle if your machine takes a domestic sewing machine needle. Be sure to get your needle advise from someone who quilts on a FRAME...I had to argue with a young man in an industrial sewing machine shop. He wanted to sell me a machine quilting needle. It was fine for quilting on my domestic machine, but not on my frame! His boss finally had to tell him to give me what I was asking for!(I started on a table top frame with a Juki and then a Handiquilter16) The needle gets alot of torque and needs to be sturdier than you think. Even if you are not breaking the needle, you could need a bigger one. My long arm uses a 16 or 18 depending on the type of thread. Hang in there! Its TOTALLY a process...I have been there...frustrating!
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set the bobbin tenson first. when holding the thread, the bobbin in the case should slowly drop to your other hand, not stay in the air, or fall rapidly. turn the screw slightly each time you adjust.
Then adjust the top tension at least a half a turn each time. It is not like your domestic machine where you adjust a bit at a time. If there are loops on the back of your sample, tighten it more. When you get it close, it does help to conceal those dots of top showing on the back if you use the same color top and bottom. A problem on the back of the quilt, is a top tension problem. A problem on the top is a bobbin tension problem. If you set the bobbin first, then all your adjustments will be with the top. This is an excellent video on needles, thread and tension for all brands of machines. http://www.handiquilter.com/videos/?id=188 |
Ditto on the size 18 needle!
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