18" Ohio Star - help
 

Looking for anyone to help a learner make a 18" Ohio Star block with a
pattern, it must be 18", or at least info on how to increase a 12" to 18" i
dont have a clue where to start, can anyone help????

Hola!

The Ohio Star block is on the same grid as a 9-patch block.
http://quilting.about.com/od/blockof...star_quilt.htm

So in a 3x3 grid with a total finished measurement of 18",
then each unit in the grid would FINISH at 6".

For the 18" (finished) Ohio Star block you'll need to cut:

Background Color (including corner units):
Cut FOUR 6.5" squares for the corner units
Cut TWO 7-3/4" squares for the stars (for QST)

Star Color (including center block):
Cut ONE 6.5" square for the center block
Cut TWO 7-3/4" squares for the stars (for QST)

(QST - Quarter Square Triangle )

The instructions provided in the above link show you how to make the QST blocks from the larger cut squares, and assemble the components into the Ohio Star block.

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Just a side note on making QST blocks - and not to confuse the issue (some people do it this way and others have specialty rulers and others cut perfectly every single time - I'm not in the last group):

I prefer to cut my QST blocks oversized and then trim down.
In order to do this, the starting squares should be cut larger than 8".
The exact size doesn't matter, as long as you have a square of each color and they're the same size.
Make the QST blocks in the same manner as the link above, but then trim them down to the exact UNFINISHED size (6.5") you need.

Hope that helps.

First, let's make sure we are talking about the same block, since I have met about 6 or7 different "Ohio Stars". I am attaching what I have most often seen called an Ohio Star. If you look at it, there are different sub-blocks. For a 12" (finished) block, each of these is made at 3.5". (3" finished size). The math rule is
1. subtract the seam allowance.
2. multiply each unit to the finished size you want, in this case, you want it half again as large, or 4.5" finished.
3. add the seam allowances back in, so each sub-unit will be 5".

If you are making the center sub-unit as one larger square, instead of 4 smaller one, as I have shown for convenience, the same rules apply for it. Original cut size is 6.5" Change to 6". Increase x 1.5-> 9", add allowance and cut at 9.5".

Other people have other methods for making HSTs. I add 1" to the finished size I want, mark the diagonal, sew 1/4" to each side and cut on the marked line. I then press and trim to the exact size I want. I use my ruler's 45* line to make sure I get it exactly right.

PS Probably, most people make the subunits I have shown in turquise and white a flying geese blocks. If you are doing them that way, the flying geese should be 5x9.5" raw size.

MTS and QM... you're the greatest! what wonderful directions you've provided :thumbup:

That's the Sawtooth Star (regardless of the center block configuration) with its 4x4 grid.

http://quilting.about.com/od/blockof...ooth_patch.htm

thanks you sooooooo much, i will make a start and when finished will need to learn how to add a photo to the main, your instruction make it sound so simple, again thanks you.......Pam

There are so many block patterns with the same name -
and so many names for some block patterns -

It can - and does - get confusing. That's where an illustration is so helpful when discussing (or, in some cases, cussing) a particular block.

I just noticed, isn't the Ohio Star an on-point version of the Sawtooth Star (with a different center)?.

Yep, but then you have to set it that way, or put corner triangles (like a S-in-a-S) on it.

But when you turn it, it the proportions change, so visually it's now closer to a 3x3 grid then a 4x4.

I have a picture somewhere that a friend did on a Round Robin border years ago.
Let me see if I can find it.

eta: Can't find the picture but I'm sure you get the idea.