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4 Patch Locking Seams Help
I am having issues with the seams not locking properly. I pin them correctly, but they shift somehow. I remember watching a quilting show that suggested the direction the seams should go so that they don't shift. I hope I explained this properly, I'm too tired to play around. TIA Camille
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the problem is the pinning...you have two choices... match the ends, sew two or three stitches and stop with needle down, now nestle the seams together and hold them till they go under the foot, then match the second set of edges and go... the other method is to put one pin straight into the seams thru both pieces, right on the 1/4" mark, with the seams going the direction you want and then....hold the pin straight UP and DOWN while you place a pin to the left and another to the right...the center pin MUST stand straight up during the whole process. Now remove center pin and sew. When you pin just ONE pin into the center and then fold the squares to take the second bite, the squares move just enough to UN-match them... eventually, you will probably adopt the 'no pins' technique but the three pins method works well...
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You want to sew with the seams that face the needle on top (seams that face away from the needle are underneath). Gives you better control.
Also, the way you pin makes a difference. You really need 3 pins -- one at the seam, one in front of the seam, and one in back of the seam. The one in front of the seam is actually the most important, so there is no build-up of excess fabric by the time you get to the actual seam. When I really need accuracy, I glue instead of pin. Use a drop of Elmer's washable glue at the intersection, push a pin through both seams 1/4" from the edge to make sure the seams nest properly, then use a hot iron on the seam. This "glues" the seam allowance in place. After sewing, it's easy to pull the fabrics apart where they were glued (if you need to). |
OK, thanks, I'll try both methods and see which works best for me. Very frustrating when you're a perfectionist with matching seams and points.
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I used to have a problem matching seams until I used deemails method now I don't have as much of a problem. I agree the pinning in the secret.
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Forked pins work very well at holding both sides of the seam together. They look like a hairpin with sharp points and the curved end is bent slightly upwards. I found them at Connecting Threads have seen them at several LQSs also.
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I agree that the pinning can be the problem, but I'd also recommend using a walking foot. Then there is no "pushing" of the top fabric forward knocking the seams off center. Personally, I don't use pins unless absolutely necessary. I prefer the method of starting the first part, then holding the joining area until it goes under the needle, then lining up the last part of the seam. But that's just me. I think it's mostly because I stab myself with pins a lot, and sometimes forget to take them out before driving over them - breaking both pins and needles in the process. :)
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Thanks everyone for these helpful hints.
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Missouri quilt co has a good tut on you tube at this link. Hope that helps. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQM8wI95xeI
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Do not pin directly on the seam but rather on both sides of it. To do this put pin on through both seams and hold straight up and down and then pin either side of the seam. Also it really helps if the seams are press in opposite directions with the top seam facing to the left and the bottom seam facing to the right.that way the top seam wiull slide into the bottom seram locking them together.
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I've been using Deemails method of holding the seams together and it works. I never thought no pinning would work, but it does. I also was searching for the forked pins. Saw them on TV. Thanks for all the tips. Now I have to master pinwheel points. That's next.
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Another thought, after you've pinned, any method, sew your seam with a basting stitch (by machine). That way, if you have to remove the stitches, it's much easier. If your seams match up and you are satisfied with them, sew again over same basting stitches with your normal stitch length. If it's too much thread for your liking, remove the basting stitches after final sewing.
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are you pressing well before sewing.
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