Altering a Quilt Kit
 

I have never purchased a quilt kit before now. I couldn't resist this one because it is my favorite quilt ever, and I've always wanted to make it. I don't usually following patterns either so this will be a challenge for me.

Here is the problem... the competed quilt finishes at 96" square. That is an unusable size for me. I don't have a bed or a wall that it will fit on. It includes a paper pattern for the applique pieces and size outline that the blocks should finish. Accuracy is crucial to a successful completion.

Does anyone know if I could take the paper pattern to a copy store, have it reduced by 20 percent, and still have the pattern come out accurately?

they may not due to copyright issues - unless you can just go and do it yourself and then pay for the paper you use.

Sometimes the papers are printed in a way that you won't have room to redraw the seam allowance. This is not a big deal if you remember that you need to leave more on the edges than you have paper for.

I've enlarged and reduced quite a bit, as long as you keeping in mind that you are reducing the finished size and then add back for seam allowance, it works fine.

Just curious.....which pattern are you making? It might be that you could just omit a row and get the same effect. Of course, I know you have probably already looked at that. Another thing to think about is if it comes with the newspaper type pattern for sewing on, that is a lot easier to use than printing paper. If you could use a larger quilt, I would think about adding a border(s) of some kind.

It is a lone star pattern with a complicated setting. The setting pieces would not come out right if the lone star was made smaller. It would have to be made smaller uniformly.

The paper pattern is not for sewing through. It is on one hugh piece of sturdy paper and the instructions are to trace the outlines out on your own paper. The previous response mentioned the copy store may not want to copy the pattern. They wouldn't know it was copyrighted if I brought them my tracing of the pattern.

I need to make it smaller... not bigger.

I would think that would be fine to make it smaller. You want to make it, not sell it. Go get it done and then show pics when you make a block!

Sounds like you have it figured out Jenn. Do you have one of the add-a-quarter rulers to use to trim up your seams and keep them uniform? https://www.amazon.com/CM-Designs-Co.../dp/B003W0PNX4 There are YouTube videos to show how it is used.

If there are no noticeable names on the pattern sheet or anything saying copyright, the copy shop may be good with reducing it for you. Also, I enlarged a pattern and I was able to get an email from the designer giving me her approval. That was several years ago, but the copy shop did accept the email.

I love the Lone Star quilts but hate trying to match up all those seams. I just can't go with the galloping horse idea. I really look forward to seeing yours.

I have one of the add-a-quarter rulers that I use for paper piecing, but this pattern is not paper pieced.

I'm not concerned with the copywrite issue at the copy store. They won't know that I have traced the pieces of a copywrited pattern.

My question is will the reduced copy of the pattern setting pieces be accurate. The instructions call for 2.5" strips of fabric to make the lone star. Reducing that by 20 percent is 2" strips. I don't know if reducing the copy of the setting diagrams will fit the lone star since reducing something on a copy machine is not 100 percent accurate.

I'm afraid of going down that road and finding out that the copies of the setting pieces won't fit. That would waste the $350 that I paid for the kit. Maybe I should try doing it on cheaper fabric first.

Ok, having read all the notes, I say..... Make the quilt as directed. It will be the easiest way. Even if you don't have a bed that the quilt fits. Drape it over the couch, hang it on the wall. Some of those applique pieces may be quite small of you reduce them. Just my 2 cents.

I'd love to hang it on the wall... it's gorgeous, and it would be a shame not to show it in its entirety, but I don't have a wall that is big enough.

I agree with this. Copy machines or scanners don't always reduce accurately so you could be okay. Or not.

I'm not a lawyer, but sometimes I think I am one.

If you are making this for your own use and not going to reproduce it and sell it, then you needn't worry about copy right laws. You paid dearly for this kit and I want to see it when you are done. I've got a lone star in the UFO section, and I've lost the pattern and directions completely.

This may take a whole tablet of graph paper, but that is the way I would go--tape the pages together and draw your pattern using the narrower strips. Once the lone star is drawn, the size of the setting triangles would be easy to figure--plus the angles are the same, it is just the size that is different and if you over cut, it just means wasting a bit of fabric. I resized a Labyrinth Walk pattern on graph paper and it turned out gorgeous with no problems other than a headache from trying to remember to add that half inch.

At least try it.

Your pattern may vary, but most Lone Stars are made with strip sets, assembled into the eight (diamond shaped) segments, which when assembled give you your completed star.

To reduce the size simply cut to a smaller dimension evenly. If the pattern says cut strips at 2 1/2, you can cut them smaller equally. What ever size you choose it will come out even due to the design. You really don't need to reduce the pattern on paper because you will be cutting strips and not using a pattern or template. Just substitute the smaller number for the one the pattern calls for.

The pattern will be useful for color layout of strips and how to arrange for finally joining into each diamond segment. This step doesn't care what size it is. As described, this applies to LS patterns assembled from strip sets. Any other way I don't know without seeing the sewing instructions.

I'm hoping you've made a Lone Star before. This is a very challenging pattern to get right the first time around. First off- every seam is sewn on the bias. The cutting has to be precise, and you need command of perfect seam allowances. All seam matching of the diamond shapes is diagonal. You can't nest the intersections, so pin matching, or some other method is required. Then it stretches of course so it's very challenging. And, it's more difficult using smaller parts, so a size reduction increases the difficulty. Each segment must be equal in size and shape, or it won't go together properly.

I just finished two, back to back. The second one was half as hard, and finished twice as nice. I don't mean to "scare" you but the LS benefits from precision joining.

If you haven't done one, give it a go using scraps. I wouldn't take the chance with a $350 kit.

I understand that the Lone Star block has all of the challenges that you mentioned. The Lone Star block itself is strip pieced, and I don't think it would be much harder by using 2" strips vs. the 2.5" strips that the pattern calls for.

What has me concerned is the curved setting segments around the star. That's the part that I want to have reduced with a copier and be able to match with the reduced-size star. I think I'll try it with stash fabric first to see if it can be done. If that fails, I'll still have the beautiful hand-dyed fabric from the kit for a different project that I won't have ruined with experiments.

Thanks everyone for your feedback. It helps me to brainstorm a solution.

The copy should be accurate enough for this purpose. If you're worried, try photocopying a 6x6" square ruler first, then measuring to see if it reduced accurately in both directions.

Quilt math warning, though: If you change 2.5" strips to 2" strips, your finished size goes from 2" to 1.5", which is a 25% reduction (not 20%).

Like others have mentioned, you have to take into consideration the seam allowance. If it calls for 2.5" strips, that is 2" plus 1/2 seam allowance (1/4 each side). You need to reduce the 2" by 20%, and then add back the 1/2" seam allowance to get it right. So it's larger than a 2" strip. I'm assuming if it's Lone Star, you are sewing strips and then subcutting on the diagonal. you have to adjust your subcut measures the same, subtract 1/2" for seam allowance, then reduce and add back 1/2" for seam allowance

I have done this with a lot of non-paper pieced patterns, and have a ruler that is marked off in 1/8 increments so I can get the pieces accurate, and i do cut them to 1/16" measures. I enjoy working with small pieces.

Jennr8r: If you do photocopy know that one of your directions will come out true and the other will not. I am sorry but I no longer remember the amount of distortion. Perhaps your local copy store will know. Otherwise an email to some company like Zerox should get you the info. I am now out of date but I don't think that will have changed. Since this is a persnickety pattern it might be better to check. Jennifer23 has a good test suggestion.

slightly different tack here - a friend took a square quilt she'd made and hung it at the corner of her room with part of it on the ceiling - works only on square quilts - use the bottom and two side corners as points to match the vertical and horizontal corners of the room - the fourth point is attached to the ceiling. looked like a kite hanging in the corner of the room. Can't provide a photo because they've moved.

Good advice about adjusting the actual block size without the seam allowances and then adding back the seam allowances.