Another binding discussion
 

This week I bound 8 bed runners. I wanted to try Donna Jordan’s method that she demos on YouTube. It worked pretty well for me! I sewed onto the front, wrapped around, then stitched in the ditch on the front and hoped it caught the binding on the back. And it did 99% of the time. I think I may be switching to this method. The only thing I struggled with was the binding coming out different widths on different parts of the quilt. I think part of it was the huge amount of bulk in my quilts (stabilized knit shirts with flannel back). Would you consider this a success? I hope you can see how the binding on the back gets wider and narrower, and the stitching line seems to be closer to the edge and then further away. Any advice for this (that doesn’t involve hand stitching)?

Did you post a picture? I don't see one. After trying to do what is the rule of sewing binding I decided to heck with it and did it my way. I know how I want it to look so that's how I sew it.

I thought I posted the pic. Sorry.

I like to hand sew my binding and find it very relaxing but I do know that a lot of quilters sew their binding on by machine.

Done is success in my book. It looks good. It can be difficult to get the perfect fold on the edge and then stitch down.

Have you tried gluing the binding to the back before stitching it from the front? That way you would know where it was before you started sewing ?

I have not tried it - but I think someone told me that is how she does it.

I bind my quilts the way you did. I find the Clover clips helpful because they have the little measuring marks on them. Helps keep me straight. Yours does look very good. I probably would do them by hand if they were exceptionally beautiful, but for quilts that are going to be used and washed, I think this is a sturdier finish.

https://www.quiltingboard.com/tutori...s-t310370.html
This is how I finish my quilts, using the front extended to fold back. It's a little tedious, but I use a decorative stitch, sometimes metellic thread!

I have not tried to do a machine binding from the front as you describe. I have tried the fanged binding and that worked alright as long as I was very very careful. For me the most accurate binding is where I sew front sides together of quilt to binding, turn it over to the back and stitch it by hand. It never fails. It takes a bit, a lot of a bit, longer to finish but never fails. A 2 1/2" strip on the bias works everytime.

You did a great job. That's how I do most of my bindings.
As RhondaK said, it's hard to get it 100% straight specially
on large quilts.

I will stick with the way I sew them on. I sew on the back turn to front and sew it down. It works everytime. When something work I just stick with it.

Your binding looks good.

To me, I thought your binding looked great. I too sew on the back, then flip it to the front. I glue my front binding however. That way I can adjust it and place it exactly where it will catch the back binding when I sew it down. Works great. I have never been disappointed in my binding once I discovered glueing it. I am not a fan of hand sewing I must say. For those that are I truly admire your work when I see it at shows.

I do my bindings the way the OP does. My arthritis won’t let me do hand binding, and I don’t like the extra time and fabric needed for a flange. One thing that helped me keep an even width is serging my quilts before binding. It gives me a firm, even edge to roll the binding over. I also found it best if I place my pins right in the seam line, parallel to the edge of the quilt instead of pinning perpendicular to the edge or using a clip.I have even played with water soluble tape and glue. The serger and the pinning had the most improvement in my binding by far.

My issue has always been getting the corners to look presentable. Until I'm happy with the corners I'm going to have to skip this method - it just seems harder. I really don't mind hand sewing, also.

https://www.quiltingboard.com/attach...8-closeup2.jpg
Here's a pic of fold-over binding with decorative automated stitching.

I too use the flange and like the extra color and the look. Otherwise I have to machine stitch to the front then fold to back and hand stitch.

That result is the main reason I don't like doing that way. I sew to the back and then fold to the front and topstitch down. I line up my fabric so that it is just covering the first stitching line, and then a narrow topstitch ends up pretty much right in the ditch or a bit past it (on the quilt) on the back side.

I've found the main thing is I need to be extra careful to get a consistent seam allowance when sewing on the binding. After I take the quilt off the LA, I use my longest ruler and rotary cut a very straight edge for sewing on the binding. I sew it with a fat 1/4" seam, and that works for me. Then when I pull the biding forward, I've got a full binding and it just comes forward to where I need it.

if I am doing something with points I want to watch for, I'll cut the binding at 2" instead of 2.25" and then sew a smaller seam allowance. I will also sew several inches and then fold the binding around and see if it's coming out correctly, or if I need to adjust the seam allowance.

That is hardly noticeable. I would certainly consider that a success.

[QUOTE=Jingle;8414186]I will stick with the way I sew them on. I sew on the back turn to front and sew it down. It works everytime. When something work I just stick with

That's how I do mine too. I have sometimes even made the backing big enough that that I just bring it around to the front and stitch it down. No separate binding.

I think it looks great.

I couldn't do it this way because I'd spend half again as much time checking the back to make sure it was caught.

I sew on the back and fold it over to the front and sew it down. Works every time.

Watson

I have been sewing the binding on the front, then trimming. My first trim is to leave about half an inch or so extra of back and/or batt. After the binding is sewn onto the front, using the edge of the top as the measuring line for the raw edge of the binding strip, I then trim the seam allowance to 3/8 inch. But I measure from my line of stitching. Now the binding needs to be pressed open very well. With a 2 1/2 binding strip to start with, that leaves just the right amount to turn under. With straight grain binding, I can do most of it without pinning or gluing. Only the corners need special care. I pin that in place a little before I get there. Once in a while my corners are perfect !

I tried that method and didn't have good luck. will continue to bind by hand!

I found some pictures of my machine binding the way the OP did hers. One picture shows the result, front and back, and the other shows the way I pin. Obviously I take the pins out before it get to them. I really like the way a decorative stitch looks on the binding. I generally use a feather stitch or a serpentine stitch, but I have used a variety of others including a simple three step zigzag.

Once the project has been squared and the binding is pressed in half (bias or straight grain), I stitch to the back after auditioning coverage from the front. I think the next steps are very important. Press the binding outward (away from the project), and sticking the point of your iron into your mitered corners to assist in formation on the frontside. Turn over and then press the outside edge again. This slight compression of the thickness is helpful. Since the binding strip is pressed in half, there is no guesswork in keeping the width consistent. Take time now to prepare the mitered corners, pinning and repinning as necessary. It is easier now than when the project is under the needle. Lastly, I use a decorative stitch on the front. (Owing to right-hand surgery, I am having difficulty hand stitching, although it is improving.) — I believe taking the time with the iron Is so important.