I don't pin anymore, either. I just make sure to be careful about not stretching my binding as I attach it. I do, as others have mentioned, do a rough layout before I start to make sure the seams of the binding don't fall at the corners and adjust as necessary.

One thing to remember about mitering corners is that the distance from the edge where you stop sewing needs to be the *same* as the seam allowance you are using. I remember the first time I sewed a binding on with a 3/8" seam; believe me, you want to stop sewing 3/8" from the edge -- not 1/4"! I had to completely remove the binding because the corners wouldn't turn.

Also, I have found that stopping just one stitch early helps my corners turn out better. If sewing a 3/8" seam, I stop 3/8" + one stitch early.

As I turn the miters, I typically will trim off some of the batting from the corner tip. I usually try to trim only the quilt tip, not any of the binding material. This too helps me get a better corner miter.

Edit: As others have mentioned, *not* ironing the binding in half seems to help too. Once I started doing that, I noticed that my bindings roll easier.

When sewing on binding, I have the binding on top and keep it slightly taut as I sew. This ensures that I do not sew on more binding than there is quilt!

I am a pinner.

I love the Clover Clips for holding the binding. I don't always stitch a 1/4 inch seam when attaching the binding. I "test" to see what is going to fill the binding for me so it might be a little more than a 1/4 inch.

So this method works for me. When I get a couple of inches away from the corner of the quilt, I stop with needle down and finger press the diagonal fold in the binding. Then I stitch up to the fold, cut the thread, make the second fold, and continue down the next side.

Sometimes, but not always, I will trim a bit of the batting out of the corners.

I do not take my quilt out of the machine at the corners. Once you understand what is going on when you fold back, slide up and fold down, you will be able to do that with the needle in the fabric at the corner. My seams are 3/8 inch, so I stop at 3/8 inch from the corner with needle down. Turn the quilt so you can sew on the diagonal into the corner right to the edge of the quilt. Usually about 3 or 4 stitches will do it. Stop with needle down. Turn the quilt so you can sew down the next side. Pinch the binding to make that mitered corner. Lay the pinched fold down so that it looks like it would if you had done all the folds as above. Now lift the needle, slide the quilt over so you are ready to sew down the next side, and away you go. There is just 3/8 inch of loose threads as you moved over to the seam line. No need to cut those off. They can just stay there.

Happy binding!

I do a combination of the suggestions a above with one addition. I don't press my binding before stitching it on, I don't pin, but line it up as I go and KEEP IT A LITTLE TAUT as I stitch. Then I press my binding up so it turns under easily and uniformly.

When I bind placemats, table runners, etc. I use a two inch binding and trim the item straight and close. than I can attach it with 1/4" seam and it works perfectly. I never pin or use any clips as I find it is a lot of extra work. However, when I turn the binding over to finish the item, I do use clips as they tend to make a straighter seam. I am a little more particular when I bind a quilt--use a 2-1/4 to a 2-1/2 inch binding and leave about a quarter inch on the quilt so I do have something to gauge my distance with. I understand if you want to have your quilt judged you have to be more particular but I don't go that far. Again practice makes it much easier.

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I totally agree with Neesie, this is a must-watch! The nicest binding I've done so far is using this terchnique.

[QUOTE=feline fanatic;6427211]When I first attach my binding to the quilt, if I am going to finish by hand I simply sew my binding to the quilt top side, matching up raw edges and using a 1/4 allowance stopping 1/4" from each corner so I can miter my corners. I don't use pins or anything at this stage. When I go to hand sew it to the back I use hair clips to hold it in place.


I do the same--the only thing I would add is that I iron the binding, once it's sewn to the front, flat so it's easier to turn to the back and hold with the hair clips. The other thing is that I keep strings of bat(about 1/8" wide) that I will tuck in if my bindings are going to be too "hallow" feeling.

Agree!!!!!!