applique and laundering...
 

Hi Y'All,

I am putting together an estimate for someone who is interested in having me make an enormous applique quilt, filled with gorgeous, detailed, and precise, pieces. I would love to do it, but want to be absolutely sure I give them accurate information, so I will ask you, the experts!

I usually do needle turn applique - time intensive, but fairly sturdy, and you can launder items done this way if you need to. I have also done wall hangings using fusible, with satin stitched edges - these I always wash once (just to be sure) but I tell the recipients to limit washings to preserve the edges.

I will be giving my (potential) clients two estimates - one with fusible applique (satin stitched on machine) and machine quilting, and one (much more expensive) with hand-done needle turn.

My question to you: am I right in telling my potential clients that the hand appliqued quilt would stand up to more rigorous treatment than the satin stitched fusible applique (which would be sooooo much quicker....)?

Thanks for your insight.
Alison

I think it's a smart idea to explain the difference. If possible, I would show them actual examples of both techniques, especially if they are laundered. Then they can make an informed decision.

You might want to consider turned edge machine applique as an in-between choice -- much faster than hand applique but a little more time-intensive than fusible. My preferred technique is freezer paper applique (as described by Harriet Hargrave in her books). Instead of glue stick, I like to use paste and my finger (much faster for me). To remove the paper after appliqueing, I cut out the backing 1/4" away from the stitching (pretty fast and easy to do because the freezer paper protects the appliques and the background fabric is "pinchable" for a scissor cut). Then I place the top wrong side up on my kitchen island and use a small brush to apply water around the applique seams to soften up the glue. After about ten minutes of softening, it is very easy to remove the paper.

Anyway, if I were making this quilt for myself, freezer paper machine applique would be the way I would do it. I much prefer the almost-invisible machine applique stitch to satin stitching, and it looks almost identical to hand applique. I have other tips I can offer if you are interested in this technique. You would definitely want to try it out for yourself on a few blocks before offering to make an entire quilt this way.

I don't understand why you think a satin stitched applique will not hold up as well as hand applique? The people I know who do hand applique always seem to ( protect) those quilts / recommend little use/ laundering. I don't do satin stitch applique, really don't like that heavy, stiff edge on everything ( that's just me) but I do a Ton of fusible machine applique. I finish my pieces with a small machine blanket stitch, quilts have been laundered , used for years and held up well.

Well, sort of. Partly, it depends on how many stitches per inch you get with your hand applique and how many snips you make into the seam allowance (if any) and where you make those snips.

Before I took up needle turn, I used to hand stitch fused applique with a scant 1/8" blanket stitch using 50wt cotton thread. I've done it with windowed & non-windowed WonderUnder (although I now prefer MistyFuse if it absolutely has to be fused). I make baby quilts & instruct parents to wash in cold water, gentle/handwash cycle with a dye-free detergent, and then to tumble dry on low heat no more than once a week & to vacuum in between or spot clean if needed.

Needle turn is certainly the gold standard for applique, but many people prefer to spend less per quilt & be able to buy a new one when they redecorate. Needle turn will produce a softer, more consistent result. It will easily last for 50 years with once a week washings (that number is based on using quality cotton fabric -- which I have no doubt you use -- and quilting at 1" spacing).
When you add in fusible & only a partially enclosed edge (stitching only), even under the best conditions, I told clients it will shed some -- that if it starts to shed more to let me know & I will trim the fuzzies for them or take care of any mending -- the oldest are only 3 years old, but so far I haven't had any takers - but there a few threads do occasionally work loose; generally, they could expect it to last 10-15 years (quality fabric & up to 3" spacing).
Turned edge blanket stitch applique I tell them should last 20 years with once weekly washings. I agree with Prism, that machine stitched turned edge applique would generally be much faster. I set the fold lines for my turned edges, remove the freezer paper & then put a few dabs of glue to hold it. The other super easy option is to get some of that Ricky Tims Stable Stuff Poly. It dissolves into tiny fiber particles when the quilt is washed so the final product is soft like needle turn. I've seen this & it looks pretty nice. It's what I plan to try if I ever do turned edge applique again in the future. Some of the gals who've invited me to work on charity quilts use the Stable Stuff Poly & I must say that it really does seem to be an ideal option for that application because I detest satin stitching & could just use a basic blanket stitch to secure the edges with SSP (quality fabric & up to 2" spacing) -- our charity is a children's hospital that requires all stitching & quilting be done 100% by machine because it's more likely to produce consistently small & even stitches that hold up well in the wash.

PS -- Certainly, with fewer washings and/or if the person chooses to wash by hand or lie flat to dry, or even better, uses that special soap that Elaine Burns recommends (Orvus), and if the quilt is layered with other quilts on the bed and rotated as to which is on top, the fabric & thread could easy last for twice as long with zero issues. But I'm also a realist -- and what parent of a newborn is going to do all that crazy stuff. They wash everything with Tide Free Cold Water & put all their little one's clothes & bedding in on the gentle cycle. It's a small sacrifice to ask them to dry it on Low heat, but at the end of the day the fact that I'm only asking that one thing of them is reasonably well received. On the flip side, if the wash in hot water, regular cycle & dry on high heat, your best bet is to use non-windowed fusible & to stitch as densely as possible (satin stitching & quilting lines at no more than 1" spacing with a 2.25" stitch length) -- and, of course, to pre-wash everything in those same conditions before beginning construction. Fusible actually will limit shrinkage -- as will very dense stitching & quilting.

I would be interested in any tips on your fusible machine applique, if you don't mind. Just getting into applique and not familiar with all the techniques.
t

I agree with ckcowl.

An excellent suggestion, and one I will experiment with. My only reservation about this is my relative inexperience with it - done lots of the other two types!

Not sure why, but I have had some edges fray despite the satin stitch (probably some error on my part). I'm not keen on the heavy edge of satin stitch either, which is why I tend to go with needle turn. Plus I really enjoy hand sewing!

Also an excellent point, Bree! Thanks so much for your insightful and comprehensive answer. It will be a queen bed quilt for adults, so I don't think it will need washing very frequently, and I have already told them of the perils of frequent washing and direct sunlight! The design is intricate enough that folding edges will be difficult (many many tight bits) but that also is part of what makes me nervous about doing fusible with anything less than satin stitch: narrow stems with vast amounts of edge... I think a folded edge with a straight machine stitch along the very edge might actually be a good possibility too, especially as there will be embellishing with embroidery after all the big stuff is done.

I do all of my sewing on an ancient Kenmore, and I don't even have blanket stitch, which influences how I do applique as well.

Thanks Lynnie! Yeah, I am quoting them three different labor possibilities (all machine, machine app and hand quilting, all hand) and the "all hand" is more than double the "all machine" option!

I appreciate all the answers, and the suggestions.

Alison

A straight stitch will definitely fray more than a zig-zag/satin stitch. One option that helps a bit with that that I've seen (and it also look really nice) is using a twin or triple needle. Or, if you're going to be custom quilting this, you could just do individual parallel rows of quilting & have it be a one-step quilting-applique (i.e., just fuse the piece down & leave it be until it's time to quilt it).

Another option you can give your client is Fray Block. Yes, it dries just a little stiff, but it's not bad & it helps a LOT with fraying. If you have any pieces -- especially small or narrow pieces -- that are cut on SOG, I would strongly consider this for any true raw edge applique (straight stitch only) or you will end up with a furry edge after just a couple times through the wash. Of course, some people love the furry edges so maybe that isn't even an issue, but if she isn't one of those people, Fray Block is a great tool to have on hand (Fray Check dries much stiffer than Fray Block). With enough exposure to the sun, it can change from clear to yellowish, but that's the only issue. It washes well & is virtually invisible.

Oh, I didn't mean I would use a straight stitch to finish a raw edge! No, I was thinking I could do the turned under edge and then straight stitch along just in from the fold, catching both layers of fabric. I could fuse it down that way too - best of both worlds. I've done a version of this for labels many times: fuse the center of the label down but hand applique the edges - looks nice and tidy and will stay on well for years. If they decide on this "hybrid" approach I could use monofilament (since it is for adults) and the stitching would disappear...

Thanks for the Fray Block tip! If I ever venture into the world of raw edge I'll be sure to keep it in mind.

Alison