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tristansnana 11-02-2011 06:46 AM

ARGH! Invisible thread
 
Am I the only one who has a real problem with invisible thread? Nests of thread on back, thread tightening until it snaps, etc. This last time I used it, I read all the info I could find. Put thread behind machine on one of those cone thread holders, adjusted my Janome 4800's tension to 0, slowly threaded machine, Bottom Line in bottom, size 70 needle, put on zig-zag plate, adjust pressure dial to 2, set machine to it's slowest speed setting...did all the right things. Actually the appliques looked pretty good. Only after I finished all 12 Dresden Plate squares, did I realize that I mistakenly used nylon instead of my polyester thread. LOL. I'm thinking that maybe I'm just not supposed to use the stuff. What do you think?

Scissor Queen 11-02-2011 06:53 AM

Putting invisible thread on a cone holder is exactly opposite of the way it needs to be done. You need to put invisible thread on your machine so that the thread comes off the spool from the side and maintains a slight amount of tension. That is what keeps it from becoming unruly.

Tartan 11-02-2011 09:13 AM

I am not a fan of invisible thread. I have not had success using it but some people like the polyester better. I think that some use a lubricant on the spool?

grammysharon 11-02-2011 09:44 AM

Invisible Thread
 
I am FMQ a wall hanging right now with invisible thread and it took me a long time to get the tension correct so I did not have thread nests and couldn't see the bobbin thread. I had to put it down to .75 (Bernina 830) to make it work. Hope adjusting the tension will
help you !!!

CRELLA 11-02-2011 09:48 AM

No you are not i hate it

barb55 11-02-2011 09:50 AM


Originally Posted by Scissor Queen (Post 4617668)
Putting invisible thread on a cone holder is exactly opposite of the way it needs to be done. You need to put invisible thread on your machine so that the thread comes off the spool from the side and maintains a slight amount of tension. That is what keeps it from becoming unruly.

What do you do if the spool is too big to put on the side on your machine?

Scissor Queen 11-02-2011 10:00 AM


Originally Posted by barb55 (Post 4618067)
What do you do if the spool is too big to put on the side on your machine?

I'm not sure what you mean. Invisible thread needs to be on the machine upright so the thread comes off the side of the spool and not the top. I think every machine has a way to use an upright spool.

Doreen 11-02-2011 10:18 AM

I'm not a fan of invisible thread due to problems. Although the brand of thread does make a difference.

RenaB 11-02-2011 10:22 AM

LOL, I never knew they had it? If it is invisible, how can you see to sew with it? Is it just clear like fishing line? Interesting.

susie-susie-susie 11-02-2011 10:56 AM

I haven't had any problems with invisible thread. I use Guterman and Sulky. The only problem I have noticed is the end poking me
when you cut the thread. It makes very nice appliqués IMHO.
Sue

wanda lou 11-02-2011 11:30 AM

Not a big fan of invisable thread either, I will often use a nice shade of gray.

tristansnana 11-02-2011 12:22 PM


Originally Posted by Scissor Queen (Post 4617668)
Putting invisible thread on a cone holder is exactly opposite of the way it needs to be done. You need to put invisible thread on your machine so that the thread comes off the spool from the side and maintains a slight amount of tension. That is what keeps it from becoming unruly.

I had been told that the thread would have a chance to relax if I used the cone holder. I guess that I'll give your suggestion a try. Thanks for the help.

Scissor Queen 11-02-2011 12:31 PM


Originally Posted by tristansnana (Post 4619031)
I had been told that the thread would have a chance to relax if I used the cone holder. I guess that I'll give your suggestion a try. Thanks for the help.

I have used miles and miles of invisible thread. Pretty much the last thing you want it to do is relax. When it relaxes is when it starts to curl up. It needs to come off the side of the spool with just enough tension that it keeps it straight.

ckcowl 11-02-2011 01:02 PM

try a poly invisible thread- it will make a huge difference- the nylon- stretches, snaps, melts, becomes brittle and breaks with age- is really not a good choice for quilting= becomes very (poky) when it breaks
polyester stays soft- does not melt-stretch or become brittle.

visit Superior Threads web site they have lots of free reference materials on threads of all kinds- what needles to use and what each thread is good for...they have free charts you can print off to keep handy for threads and needles.

BKrenning 11-02-2011 07:44 PM

The brand of invisible thread really does make a difference and I also would choose poly over nylon. Some types are wound differently and need to be mounted horizontally (embroidery thread spools) and some of the invisibles. If you don't have a horizontal mount, you can try putting it behind your machine in a coffee mug or mason jar to control the lashing if it is a problem. Getting the tension set right just takes patience and some machines just won't play well with the "slick" invisibles.

Carron 11-02-2011 08:10 PM

The Guterman brand I find is really good. I use the invisible thread a lot. Be sure to use the same thread in the top and in the bobbin. Mixing them that is to say, regular thread in one area and invisible in the other does cause for some problems in the sew out.

frarose 11-02-2011 09:15 PM

I too have problems when i try to use invisible thread.

meemersmom 11-03-2011 01:44 AM

One thing that has helped me when I do need to use nylon invisible threads is an old nylon knee-high stocking. Really. I cut a tube about 2 inches wide from one that had a small run in it (I used the part without the run). I then stretch that piece out a bit, much like a rubber band, and put it on the spool, also like putting a rubber band on something (slip it over it, pull it out a bit, cross the sides, then slip it over it again --- hope this makes sense). This provides just enough extra tension that the spool can then be used on either a vertical or horizontal spool pin without the problem of tightening and breakage or relaxing and coiling up under the spool or the bottom of the fabric. Some machines also now come with a little white netting tube that does essentially the same thing.

katesnanna 11-03-2011 03:18 AM

Sounds like you need to try a few different brands of invisible threads. Some machines prefer one over another. I mainly have used Signiture.

azwendyg 11-03-2011 03:45 AM

I've been using invisible thread from Superior and just LOVE it! It's a poly thread and comes in clear and in a smoky color. I often use it to machine topstitch my binding on (folded over to the front and topstitched). I always use it in both the top and the bobbin and really haven't experienced any problems with it other than being difficult to actually SEE it when I'm threading the machine and needle. I think the brand/quality of invisible thread you choose does make a difference, and was very reluctant to try it at first. I had some bad experiences with it many years ago (I'm sure it was nylon thread then), but tried it on the advice of a LQS instructor in a binding class. I've used the Superior invisible thread in my Juki, Bernina 630 and in my daughter's Janome 6600, all with great success. I always take the time to check and adjust the top and bottom tension if necessary when I start using it and have had no issues with it.

judi43 11-03-2011 03:56 AM

Thru a lot of trial & errors I've finally gotten it down how to set my machine (Brother) and I have no problems, I've been quilting Christmas Wall Hangings all week & it looks really good. I cut the thread long, thread a needle then bury it in the batting & you don't have sharp ends.

sunflower1944 11-03-2011 03:57 AM


Originally Posted by Carron (Post 4621779)
The Guterman brand I find is really good. I use the invisible thread a lot. Be sure to use the same thread in the top and in the bobbin. Mixing them that is to say, regular thread in one area and invisible in the other does cause for some problems in the sew out.

I've always been told not to use the invisible thread in the bobbin. ??

azwendyg 11-03-2011 04:00 AM


Originally Posted by sunflower1944 (Post 4622618)
I've always been told not to use the invisible thread in the bobbin. ??

Hmm, I don't know why. In fact, often that's where I want the "invisible" part, and nobody told me I couldn't... It's working for me.

candi 11-03-2011 04:37 AM

I LOVE invisible thread. I have only used Sulky so far and have not had a minute of trouble with it. When I applique with it, I set it on the upright spool holder, use size 60 Sharp needle, adjust my upper tension to 2.5 on my machine and use it in the bobbin (half full) and applique away. It works great for the invisible machine applique method, especially that I don't have different threads to match all my pieces, so invisible to the rescue! I have occasionally used it for quilting (especially great for STID) and use a size 75 quilting or top stitch needle for that. A teacher at a LQS told me once and she personally recommends YLI for people who have troubles with other brands on their machines, she said she's seen a lot of success with that brand on different machines. I wouldn't know, never used it before.
Do show us those blocks :)

Scissor Queen 11-03-2011 04:48 AM


Originally Posted by BKrenning (Post 4621671)
The brand of invisible thread really does make a difference and I also would choose poly over nylon. Some types are wound differently and need to be mounted horizontally (embroidery thread spools) and some of the invisibles. If you don't have a horizontal mount, you can try putting it behind your machine in a coffee mug or mason jar to control the lashing if it is a problem. Getting the tension set right just takes patience and some machines just won't play well with the "slick" invisibles.

It should only come off the end of the spool if it's a cross wound thread. If it's a stack wound thread it should come off the side of the spool. I don't think I've seen an invisible thread that is a cross wound. It's easy to tell the difference between cross and stack wound spools. Cross wound crosses over itself and stack doesn't. Most invisible thread behaves better if it maintains a little tension as it comes off the spool. When you let it come off the top of the spool and relax it gets unruly and starts twisting up and pooling around the bottom of the spool.

Glassquilt 11-03-2011 04:58 AM

I have a Viking and I use the brand that my dealer carries. Love it.
The only problem I have is seeing the invisible stuff to thread the needle.
The older my eyes get the less I can use it. :(

BKrenning 11-03-2011 05:00 AM


Originally Posted by azwendyg (Post 4622635)
Hmm, I don't know why. In fact, often that's where I want the "invisible" part, and nobody told me I couldn't... It's working for me.

Since some of it stretches, it will wind too tightly on the bobbin and make it extremely difficult to get the bobbin off the winder. Been there..done that! It can be put in the bobbin but keep a very close eye on the winder and again, it really depends on the brand & type of invisible you're trying to use. Wendy must have one of the "tame" invisibles.

T-Anne 11-03-2011 05:17 AM

What brands of invisible thread are the best/easiest to use? Any suggestions/recommendations?

bigsister63 11-03-2011 05:35 AM

I use invisible thread on the TOP only when doing SID. I really like it since you can not see top stitching and therefore your mistakes. I use regular thread on the bobbin and it gives a nice pattern on the backing. I have tried FMQ with invisible thread and do not like it. I need to put thread in upright position either in holder on machine or in a cup. Also you need to sew slow so thread does not "whip". Keep trying and you may learn to like it.

gramacheri 11-03-2011 05:36 AM

I must agree, I DO NOT LIKE invisible thread. I just can't seem to get it to work properly.


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