Backing fabric - how to piece?
 

I'm asking this because I'm curious to know what approach people would take. I've just finished a quilt top that is 56in by 49in. I have over 4 yards of my backing fabric, which is 44in wide. The look of the finished quilt matters more to me than being economical with the fabric. How would you cut and piece it?

I'm curious about this as well and look forward to the replies. Thanks for asking a great question!

I was under the impression it should be a full width of fabric in the center and the lesser equal ones on the sides.

This is the best way I know to make it look good.
https://siterepository.s3.amazonaws....onalpb1103.pdf

I usually cut backing piece and insert something pieced to get more width. I like to use up orphan blocks or leftover scraps from the front. If you are sending your quilt to a longarmer, ask her/him if they have any preferences on seams. I prefer mine vertical if possible. I am also a sucker for a pieced back (I HATE to piece them, but LOVE them when they are done! Go figure!) Piecing backs appeals to my thriftier side. I like to use up the scrappy stuff, so I can save the longer yardage for big quilts or borders.

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Who says learning algebra is a waste of time?! :D Saving this in my "good to know" file! Thanks!

I don't care for the John Flynn method because of the long diagonal. It's hard to cut, hard to sew, and even harder to keep it from stretching.

Assuming a 3" extra all around (so the backing needs to be 62"x55") I would cut one length that is 62"xWOF, cut off selvages, and make the second piece 62"x whatever is needed to make the width 55". I really wouldn't expect to notice where the seams are on the back, but I would prefer that one not be too close to the edge of the finished quilt.

The exception to this would be if the quilt is going on a longarm. In that case the backing seam should run parallel to the rails. You might need to change the direction of the seams in that case, depending on the quilting design, and then I would definitely think about keeping that backing seam away from the edge of the top, which might require a different layout.

When I'm going to do a pieced backing from one large piece of yardage like you have, I will cut the fabric in half, giving me two 2yd pieces, turn them sideways, and sew them together on the selvedge edge. This gives you a large enough backing.

Cari

I do what Cari does... I measure a piece of fabric the (smaller) width of my quilt x the width of the fabric (40-44 inches wide). So I would need 2 times the width plus about 6 inches that I cut in half. Then I trim and sew the selvedge side to either another selvedge side or my favorite is to piece a width of the quilt with fabric scraps from the front. So that I don't have to match the fabric on the back and the seam isnt' as noticeable across.
here's one I did that way: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/118782508899891458/

Often that way I can also decide to use two different fabrics altogether! Here's one such example:
https://www.pinterest.com/pin/118782508903439498/

The only time it doesn't work is if you use directional fabric!

eta to my last post - I quilt on either my domestic sewing machine or a sitdown quilting machine (not long arm). If you use a long arm, you might check to see if the horizontal seams on the backing will be an issue. But personally I would think the vertical seams would be more of an issue depending on how the quilt was loaded to be quilted on the long arm. just one more reason I love my sitdown!

Alas, I use a local FMQ and she has wide backing fabric. I am usually not too concerned about the backing color/design.
On the other hand, when piecing the backing (it has been awhile), I think I was told to iron the seams OPEN.
Not sure I remembered that correctly.

IMO, your first consideration should be if you are using a longarm or not. If you're using a longarm, or sending it out to a longarmer, this picture illustrates why you should piece the backing seams horizontally.

https://scontent-sea1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...d2&oe=5982C610

Second, if the look of the quilt was more important to me than the economics, I would pick a busy backing fabric that wouldn't show seams. The ideal fabric would be dark with a small and very busy print. Here's a good example:

https://d2d00szk9na1qq.cloudfront.ne...rge_FD-284.jpg

I took this picture at a show some years ago. I thought it was very inventive of the quilter to make the back so lovely as the front.

This is the front.

I insert a vertical stripe or leftover squares out of the same fabric as the front. Simple 4 patches work vertically. I like to think that if the front were to get damaged, the back could be used to repair the front.

It is very difficult to get a backing exactly centered with a top.

In my opinion, it is less hassle to have a design, extra strips, whatever- in a backing - off-centered so that a couple of inches one way or another will not matter.

Wow, Boston, that is a lovely quilt!

That is a great quilt - I love the way I keep seeing different "blocks" when I look at it.

I would most likely find some corresponding fabric and some blocks and sew a strip down the 44" length (somewhere about 2/3rds across) to extend the width. I love back art.

Good for you! It's really annoying to have a quilt just a few inches too small to fit a backing. I usually buy wide backing to save me the hassle for a small quilt and piece a backing for a big quilt. I do pieced backing this way. The LA can turn the quilt to have the seams going the best way to quilt it.

http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/backings.htm

Yep, me too. simplest and least obtrusive way.

I'm made the backing for a recent oriental quilt and used blocks down the center with 1 inch black sashing on each side and then an oriental print on each side. (same fabric)

I like the wider backing fabric.

When given the choice, so do I, and usually what I use.

Has anyone mentioned John Flynn's method?

Thanks for all the replies. Its always interesting to go back to basics and look at how other people do things.

The wider fabric is the best option, of course, but choices are limited, and I'm not aware of many suppliers in the UK. The diagonal method looks interesting, but I doubt my maths is up to it.

Ive just tried my first pieced, as in using contrasting blocks, backing. It's waiting to be quilted at the moment. The one that prompted the question is a baby quilt that's got to be finished quickly and simply because I've run out of time - baby is two weeks old already. The backing fabric has a small, busy design, as someone suggested, so I'm hoping that the joins won't show very much.

Wish me luck!

I have never used wide backing fabric so that means that I am always piecing my backing. One thing that matters to me is to have the pattern match so that is my first approach. I'll need two pieces of fabric to do this so after I make sure I have enough fabric I cut it into two pieces.

To match the pattern I take one piece of fabric and fold over the selvedge edge to the back along an easy to follow pattern repeat (ie a vein in a leaf, petal of a flower etc) to make it easier to match. I press that fold and will use it as a reference later. I then find the repeat on the other piece and lay the first piece with the pressed selvedge edge over it to find the match. Once the match is found I pin a long the folded edge just through the second piece of fabric. I then open up my first piece and with right sides together match the pressing line with the pin line in the second piece and pin the two pieces together. I then stitch along the pressing line, check to make sure the match is good and then trim my seam allowance to 1/2". I press my seam allowance open. When done correctly you will barely be able to see the seam from the right side. Now I have a piece of fabric that is big enough and looks like one piece.

Thankyou so much! I've been turning over in my head this morning whether it might be possible to match the fabric, and how I might do it. This is wonderful and I will try it.

I used to piece lengthwise but then I'd get this bump where the seam layed as I rolled it. Now I put the seam crosswise so no bump.

Welllllllll............a lot depends on your lonmgarmer (assuming you are using one)....for myself, I need seams running horizontally, (parallel with my rollers) to avoid a fabric buildup that occurs when seams are vertical and a quilt is rolled.

To avoid "un-eveness" with a pieced back (assuming different fabrics) I insert the narrow addition in the middle of the back, which then gives the appearance that it was a conscious design decision, and I do not have to be concerned if either the top or bottom are an inch or two longer than the other.

The LA here turns the quilt so the seam is horizontal on the frame. I can see a very large quilt may be too wide for some frames but most can be turned.

I prefer to make my backings with the seam going horizontally. It uses less fabric too. I make more charity and QOV than anything else.

49"+6"=55". I would cut the width of the fabric at 55", which allows 3" of backing extending beyond the width of your quilt top edges( if quilting on your domestic machine.) Allow extra backing if you are bringing to a long arm quilter (4" around the perimeter of your quilt top 49"+8"=57")

Cut 2 pieces at 55" x 44". Join the 2 pieces along the 44" side with a half inch seam allowance to equal :55" w x 87"l . Trim the 87" to 62". You have a backing size of 62" l x 55" w for your quilt top of 56"l x 49"w.

...so I did, and Citruscountyquilter's instructions worked brilliantly. It's not perfect, but for a first attempt is pretty good. [ATTACH=CONFIG]571861[/ATTACH]

I saved John Flynn's calculator and found a video. I'm more of a visual person but still want the calculator. Then I'll think about it.

Gorgeous quilt Boston! If you are hand quilting, the less seams- the better. Long arm doesn't matter so much. I hand quilt so those thick seams are harder to quilt through. (threw???)

I like the diagonal back. It is fast and easy and you use a lot less fabric.http://www.multi-patch.com/