Ball Point Needles & FMQ
 

Was just at my local machine dealer getting some advice on my FMQ and he suggested I try a ball point needle. Has anyone tried these when doing FMQ? I sew and FMQ on a Juki Exceed F600.

Another question re FMQ: While practicing today, I noticed my stitches on the back all seem to have a little space between them ... while my stitches on the front don't. Is that normal? My stitch lengths were fairly consistent.

Thank you!
Sharon

I can't quite envision what you mean. Can you post a picture of an example of it? It may be as simple as increasing your top tension a little, but hard to say without seeing the problem.

as far as ballpoint needles, I think they would only be necessary on a knit fabric, like a t-shirt quilt, otherwise you would want to stick to a Sharp needle.

I am not sure you would be happy with a ball point needle. BUT, trying things outside 'rules" is how new techniques are born! I once just about had a knockdown drag out fight with a man at the commercial sewing machine store. I wanted top stitch needles for FMQ and he kept trying to sell me their quilting needle. He had no idea that the torque on a frame based machine had to have a stiffer needle shaft. For FMQ on a domestic machine, I suggest the Schmetz machine quilting needle.

I agree with the others. A ballpoint needle is going to make a wider hole in the fabric & is more likely to damage the fibers unless you're working with knits. I use either a Schmetz Microtex or Klase/Schmetz Quilting needle for my FMQ. I've yet to see a quilt I just loved done with a ballpoint needle (at least the ones where I asked), but as Beth says -- the only way to know what works best for you is to buy a couple different types of needles and try them out.

I have always used sharps and buy my needles from this same guy. Today he said he had recently talked to a lady that said she only used ball points. I doubted him but said I would try them ... probably on a practice piece though.

So the picture with the Red thread is the "top" of a practice piece ... the one with the White thread is the "back". (Used different colors to check tension). Looking at the fabric again, I don't see spaces on the back but the area where the needle went in, the "indention" looks deeper than on the top. Never really noticed this before. I just think my top stitches look odd. Maybe it's just me. LOL

I think a ball point would be great for the Tee shirt quilts, but I think I may have to try one too on the regular cotton ones.

Sharps pierce the fabric, that is why you get a straighter seam. When piecing with a ball it doesn't pierce the fabric but goes to the side of the weave that is why it seems to not be as accurate.
I've never quilted with a ball.

I agree with everyone else, ball needles are made for knits so that the needle doesn't break the weave of the knit. Never heard of this but try it out on a small test sandwich.

A great source of information about needles and threads can be found st Superior threads and the owner Bob Purcell. Top stitch or quilting needles are the best to use for FMQ Ballpoint needles are for knit fabric and are intended to push the yarns in knit fabrics aside rather than penetrating them which happens with woven fabrics regardless of fiber content. It is also important to use the size needle recommended for the size thread you are using.

About your top stitches: I do not think it is just you! They look like they are not lining up straight with each other. Instead, that are slightly angled, kind of on a slight diagonal, rather than straight as a ruler. I remember a friend of mine had this problem when she bought a new machine. At the moment I cannot remember what caused this (tension, timing?) but I could ask her if need be. Of course, you could ask your local guy about it, showing him your sample and maybe he will know. Maybe someone will come along with advice on how to correct it who knows way more than I. But I do get why you are questioning the look of those top stitches.

I recently saw a post from someone who has a Janome 1600P and was recommended Janome purple top needles. And she said it completely eliminated her thread shredding. Since I have a Janome 1600P and problem with shredding while I have my machine on a frame, I immediately looked up these needles. Found they are specially made for the Janome models and they are ball point. Haven't tried them myself yet, but sure will next time I set up my frame.

KLO, thanks for that info. Today I cleaned my machine (took out bobbin case) and NOW I definitely am having tension issues that I've never had before. Even pieced some scraps and my bobbin thread is coming to the top. I'm probably going to take my machine in tomorrow for a "look see". I've re-threaded the needle and bobbin multiple times, put in a new sharp needle, and even took the cover plate off several times to ensure I had put the bobbin case in correctly. Today, the top stitches look straight but the back stitches don't.

I have a Juki TL98QE and Babylock Jane I quilt on. I only use regular needles to FMQ.

I do not know why your stitches do not line up on the front. I think you need to tighten your top tension a little to pull the bobbin thread up into the quilt a little more. I have heard that machines that do a lot of decorative stitches do not line up as well as straight stitch machines. My Vikings and brother have always lined up...so not so true! I think that Juki's are straight only. Is this true? I would clean and oil and adjust...then try try again. Is there a Juki group on yahoo, sometimes those groups have lots of info. Good luck.

I just read more of of this ongoing thread! Forget what I said....call the guy!!! Still good luck!

I will add to the chorus of Don't use s ball point needle for regular quilting. Use on knits only. When you wash your quilt, the holes will shrink and be less noticeable, so I wouldn't fret about the holes in your quilt. Others have given you good advice about your tension, etc. Good luck in solving your problem.

The ball point needles are usually used for T-shhirt quilts and knit fabrics. I have used them for that purpose and it works really well. The ball point needle is designed to separate fibers without cutting them. I use size 16 or 18 sharp needles to quilt on cotton. Your stitches are fine. If you wait for a while and let the fabric relax, the holes start to close up. If it bothers you, switch to a smaller needle.

Some Juki's are just straight stitch. I have the F600 which has decorative, buttonholes, etc.

I took my machine in and he just put the tension setting to normal ... the stitches were fine. I did that last night but I didn't think the stitches looked right. Maybe I confused my machine by making so many adjustments and after a good nights rest it worked fine. LOL

AND, as everyone advised, I'm sticking with "sharp" needles. Thank you.

FMQ use 90/14 topstitch needle.....i get mine a superior threads. You stitches look like you need to speed up you machine or slow down your hand movement.....doing curves is a practice thing. I had eyelashes until i changed to the 90/14 needle and slowed down....yours ĺooks fine.

The janome needles are made by ORGAN. The oRGAN 90 / 14 topstitch is recommended for fmq. I use it for piecing too. SUPERIOR THREADS has the ORGAN needles. I get the titanium...they last longer.

I may be wrong, but I've been under the impression that ball point needles are for knits or stretch fabrics.

I'm no expert here, but I have only used ball point needles in garment sewing with knits/stretchy fabrics. I'd stick with either top stitching, microtex or quilting needles.

I switched to titanium coated topstitch needles for piecing, decorative stitching, and fmq on my Brother, Bernina and Janome. I use Singer quilt shop quality needles in my Singer. Singer makes two different quality of needles. One that is cheap and one that is not. UGH! How silly.