I buy a lot of batiks from Thailand and have never had a problem with them. The beauty is in the unexpected colors that pop up here and there

thanks for very good info!

I have used hundreds of yards of batiks, the problem is not really in only one manufature, I have had it in all the major brands from Hoffman, Moda, Kaufman, etc.
To test I put the batik in a sink with Warm water ( helps to remove a wax residue,as well as some of the chemicals bonded in the wax) and leave it over night. Some that you think are OK once really saturated in water will run. Since soaps will remove some of that residue wax/chemicals much in the same way the warm water will react , you will be surprised at how many will run/bleed. It is a big clue when you put the batik in a sink of water and it seems to resist absorbing the water. This is a major sign that there is still a wax residue ( with chemicals) in the fabric. Have you ever noticed that some batiks have a strong distictive smell, this is also a sign of the chemical residue. I first noticed when I was pressing with steam the distictive smell. It is not an overwhelming odor , but noticable.
Mostly now I just assume they will and pretreat. This is a problem that is not getting better as Batiks grow in popularity. It is getting worse.
Do note there are batiks and then there are fabrics that look like batiks that are not manufactured in a traditional batik manner, marketed as batik. They are hand painted or sprayed. It is surprising how many "batiks" are really sprayed , and not done with the wax and resist. Some are done in a combination of methods. The label on the bolt does not distinguish. And then there are the printed fabrics made to look like batiks ... that is a whole different subject or should I say "keetle of Dye".

Ditto! Fantastic colors!

I love batiks, that's the majority of my stash. I've only had problems with 2 of them running (one was a cheaper one I got at Joann's the other from ebay). I use Isacord thread as a general rule when peicing and also when quilting and I've never had a problem with the tight weave, even on the longarm.

I was hoping someone was going to talk about the bleeding dye and the absolute necessity to prewash. That is my biggest complaint about Batiks.

I was hoping someone was going to talk about the bleeding dye and the absolute necessity to prewash. That is my biggest complaint about Batiks. But I've never heard of Retayne. Guess I'll have to try to find some.

I am doing a BOM with Tonga Batiks, the Wing & A Prayer pattern Nature. Anyway, I've had a lot of problems getting needles to go through when machine piecing. I dropped my needle size down to a 60/8 and still have problems.

I do think they are absolutely beautiful, but I made the mistake of doing pillow cases with them and they wrinkle like mad. I don't want to have to iron my pillowcases all the time, live and learn.

I love batiks and have a hard time staying away from them. I wash all my fabrics unless the pattern specifically states not to. I use Retayne or good old fashioned vinegar and warm water on all fabrics except the pastels. I let them soak in the vinegar either in the washer or the sink and then wash them in the washer with a little soap. I keep an eye on the rinse water to see if the fabric is bleeding. If it is I just repeat the process. I love working with batiks - they don't fray much and I've not had a problem machine quilting it and I've used it front and back of quilts with no problem. No, I do not work for Hoffman of any other mfgr. of batiks - LOL.

pre wash the reds and dark purples until you are sure they arent' bleeding dye. The reds can be bad about it.