I use my domestic and have gotten so much at estate sales the last batting I purchased was on clearance at JF for $10. for a King. I have some green fabric that bleeds like crazy so those will be paired together at some point in time.

I've always bought batting by the roll, even before I had a longarm. The rolls are stored in a closet. I cut to length for each quilt. I usually put the cut piece into the dryer with a small wet towel before I use it, to eliminate any folds.

Thanks everyone for your comments, suggestions, and stories of what works and what doesn't. I did not realize that the rolls are usually folded. How did I not know that? Anyway, I can see that it would be a huge mistake to put a roll of batting on the bottom bar. Did not even think about the fact that you cannot check underneath to see if all is well with your quilting and that there may be too much tension on the batt when unrolling while on the frame. Cannot thank you all enough. So glad I asked this question before buying. I really like Quilter's Dream Cotton so guess I'll just stick with buying individual packages as I need them for now. Forgot to mention that storage is a problem for me as far as the rolls are concerned. I can put packages on a shelf.

If any of you who use a frame to machine quilt (such as Cathy) are still with me on this thread, can I ask if any of you float your batting and if so why and if not why not?

OK, I just went back and searched the QB for topics on floating the top (oops, not the batting as I previously said) and it appears that some like and do it and some don't. Guess I will be in for some trial and error.

at a machine quilters guild meeting the presenter suggested using the rolling base of an old office chair with a piece of PVC pipe or a rod of some sort, to put a bat roll onto vertically--that way you can move it and pull out the bat you need easily, etc.

as far as floating top--I float both top and bat--stitch down at top and then the sides as I advance. I use either pins or magnets to keep secure to backing next to the belly bar on my machine so no tucks. I will go ahead and load both back and top if it's a very large quilt (over 108"--my frame is 14') just because it seems like there's more 'wiggle' when rolling it.

I buy the roll but have it on a curtain rod(wooden) attached to the wall and a book case. I have enough batting and it is easy to measure

I always float my top. That's actually how I was taught. I like it because I can lift it up & check seams or easily smooth out the batting. I have some storage tubs under my frame, so if the top is so long that it will touch the floor, I just accordion fold it & lay it on the tubs. Occasionally, if the piecing is uneven and I need to add some tension, I will just use some bar magnets. If you have a harbor freight near you, these are the ones I have. I made a muslin sleeve for them. This will only work if your rails are steel, however. Aluminum won't work.
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-in-m...der-61199.html

I also keep my batting on the roll - putting it on the bar underneath. When I want to cut a length for quilting, I bring it through the top bar in the back and then pull it towards me. It is folded in half, so I fold my quit in half, just pull the width that I need. Most of it is laying on the top of the bars, making it easy for me to measure and cut.