Batting for thinner fabrics
 

Good morning - I could really use some advice on choosing batting for a top I'm piecing. The pattern is a 4-patch with 1/2" sashing, the colors are a mix of pale peaches/pinks/mauve/cream/red, and about half of the fabrics are very lightweight. Two are very thin Aunt Graces and one is, believe it or not, a thin seersucker.

I've been fussing with the color mix on and off for a few years, torn between trying to solve the puzzle and win and just tossing the whole thing out. I can definitely say that i will never again work with so little contrast. Or with peach, for that matter. :)

But, in for a penny, in for a pound - I am piecing it now, and, visualizing the finish line, realize that there must be some general rule about choosing the batting. Should I be going for the lightest cotton Quilter's Dream, or would something a bit more substantial be better? I am mostly concerned about durability.

Thanks for any help you can send my way.

hugs,
Charlotte

How will you be backing it? Just my opinion - but i would think if you are concerned about durability, you would want to offer stability / support to those light fabrics. A "normal" weight backing and batting would do that. Don't know if that's right, but it's what i would do.

I agree with PenniF. I like a 80/20 cotton poly. Currently one from Pellon made with recycled fibers - Nature's Touch, I think. It has some weight to it, but that's what most of my children want.

I'll be backing it with regular quilt fabric. I have some aunt grace muslin, which is similar in weight, but then the entire thing would be weightless. :).

Charlotte

I have original Aunt Graces fabrics that were made by Benatex and they are not lightweight at all, rather a little over starched in production. I wouldn't ever use anything lightweight in a quilt because the thread will tear thru the fabric when washing very quickly. I have always used Hobbs 80/20. Harriet Hargrave taught me many decades ago, to buy the best fabric that you can afford. Good Luck !!

I would use Warm & White so that the colors stand out better. Please share the finished quilt :-)

Quilter's Dream Select cotton or "Dream Orient" is what I would choose. Blends are stiffer. You've put a lot of work and thought into this. Use the best batting you can afford. No I don't represent them but as a LA quilter I think they have some of the best quality batting.

Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts on this. I do have some QD select already and may pick up some of the hobbs 80/20, just to see how it is.

I probably should add, too, that all of the fabrics are LQS quality, purchased from KQ. The Aunt Grace is a Marcus brothers one and there's a similar one from Maywood. Both are very light, which wouldn't be a huge issue if the main fabric weren't the seersucker. I remember at the time, wondering if that was really quilt fabric, but it was part of a display of very thin and fine stripes and plaids, so I figured it had to be. (Now, I would be more suspicious, with a bit more experience.). There's nothing on the selvedges to indicate what it is. All of the fabrics I bought from that group ( 3 plaids and the seersucker) are the same on both sides and appear to be woven instead of printed. I wish I knew more about them. Perhaps they are lawn?

This is one that will definitely need Harriet's machine-washing method and fan-drying. :)

hugs,
Charlotte

I was going to say Warm and White also. I always use the Warm and Natural. I just love it.

The very light colors & seersucker suggest a summer quilt to me. Summer quilts weren't meant to be as heavy as a winter quilt. I mostly use Warm & Natural or Warm & White, because it is the most readily available for me. I love the White with light colored fabrics. It seems to make them brighter. Since your fabrics are so lightweight, I would definitely use an over all panto that crosses back & forth across the seams so that all the fabrics are equally supported with the quilting stitching. That will help prevent pulling on these lightweight fabrics that could cause them to tear. If you do the quilting yourself, think wavy instead of straight lines, crossing back & forth across the seams, to support all the fabrics.

There are lightweight interfaces out there that could provide extra stability for your top, or even add a piece of white muslin (extra wide with no seams) under your pieced top and before your batting to further stabilize the top. This suggestion is from my clothing sewing days, hasn't been tried by me in a quilt, and would have served as a lining in a garment that you would wear.

I agree with the others to use a slightly heavier backing fabric, thus giving the whole quilt more support. Sounds like you will have a lovely quilt when you are done. Could we have a picture, please?