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I use the Sharen Schamber basting technique - because I just don't have the room to lay things out - but I have found that it works just as well with the spray baste as it does hand basting.
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Originally Posted by annesthreads
(Post 4986648)
So does spray basting alone really hold the layers together? When I've tried, they've started to come apart again. How much spray do you put on - do you try to cover the whole surface of the fabric and/or batting?
I'd love to find a method of basting a quilt that works for me. Recently I seem to be quite unable to do it successfully, and have had terrible battles with trying to eliminate tucks and creases on the backing. I don't really have a suitable surface to use for basting: my floors are all carpeted, I've no big walls, and my table isn't that big (and is too thick to use the clips from the stationery stores). It's the part of quilting that I dread most. Regarding tucks and creases on the back, I always heavily starch the backing fabric before layering. (I use a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, "paint" on the starch with a large wall painting brush until fabric is saturated, toss in dryer, then iron with steam.) I also spray starch and iron the top before layering. Starching stabilizes the fabrics so they are much less likely to stretch and distort while machine quilting. For a quilt that is already layered, you can add some starch by laying out a large flat sheet to catch overspray, then use spray starch to lay down layers of spray. A fan helps the spray starch dry between layers. No ironing. Doing both sides with several layers of spray starch can help a lot. It's not quite as good as the above method, but can be a lifesaver with a quilt that is already basted. To minimize overspray with any of the methods, always spray from the edge of the quilt towards the center of the quilt. For clamps, I went to a big box hardware store (okay, Menards) and bought the largest, easiest-to-use clamps they had in stock. I think they were about $6 each. These clamps open up to a full 3 inches and have an easy-release/easy-open mechanism that looks and works kind of like a trigger. For sure they will work on a table that is 2 inches thick (I just tried a clamp on an edge like that here), and probably up to 2.5 inches. Edit: Here's a link to the clamps I got: http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...914-c-9135.htm |
The first time I spray basted, the backing came off. Not a pretty quilt!!! So I took the stitching off and washed the backing. I moved to the next project, and I haven't tried this quilt again yet. The second time, I started quilting in the center and I pin basted the edges just in case, since they take the most abuse.
Originally Posted by annesthreads
(Post 4986648)
So does spray basting alone really hold the layers together? When I've tried, they've started to come apart again. How much spray do you put on - do you try to cover the whole surface of the fabric and/or batting?
I'd love to find a method of basting a quilt that works for me. Recently I seem to be quite unable to do it successfully, and have had terrible battles with trying to eliminate tucks and creases on the backing. I don't really have a suitable surface to use for basting: my floors are all carpeted, I've no big walls, and my table isn't that big (and is too thick to use the clips from the stationery stores). It's the part of quilting that I dread most. |
here's the Susan Schamber technique: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhwNylePFAA
I use it - no scratches from pins, nothing shifts, and I pull out the threads as i get to the area. The key is to baste it closely. |
Originally Posted by Prism99
(Post 5001860)
What batting did you use? And which brand of basting spray? 505 seems to work on all types of batting, but I have heard of problems getting other brands to stick to polyester batting. I use only 505 brand basting spray now. If you are using another brand, switching from a polyester batting to a primarily cotton batting (such as Hobbs 80/20) could solve your problem.
Regarding tucks and creases on the back, I always heavily starch the backing fabric before layering. (I use a 1:1 solution of Sta-Flo liquid laundry starch and water, "paint" on the starch with a large wall painting brush until fabric is saturated, toss in dryer, then iron with steam.) I also spray starch and iron the top before layering. Starching stabilizes the fabrics so they are much less likely to stretch and distort while machine quilting. For a quilt that is already layered, you can add some starch by laying out a large flat sheet to catch overspray, then use spray starch to lay down layers of spray. A fan helps the spray starch dry between layers. No ironing. Doing both sides with several layers of spray starch can help a lot. It's not quite as good as the above method, but can be a lifesaver with a quilt that is already basted. To minimize overspray with any of the methods, always spray from the edge of the quilt towards the center of the quilt. For clamps, I went to a big box hardware store (okay, Menards) and bought the largest, easiest-to-use clamps they had in stock. I think they were about $6 each. These clamps open up to a full 3 inches and have an easy-release/easy-open mechanism that looks and works kind of like a trigger. For sure they will work on a table that is 2 inches thick (I just tried a clamp on an edge like that here), and probably up to 2.5 inches. Edit: Here's a link to the clamps I got: http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...914-c-9135.htm I use 505 and all sorts of battings. I've tried starching the last couple of backings and it has helped. The weird thing is that I used to layer my quilts on the (carpeted) floor without all these problems - a few months ago I did a huge one and it was fine. Then one had tucks, and since then I can't get it right. I'm off to buy some clamps, and will have another go at the table method. |
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