Binding input, please
 

Hi everyone - I have a TON of quilt tops that I plan on finishing and BINDING in the first part of 2013. BUT, I do lots of other handwork and do not want to put my bindings on in the traditional way. I would really rather do it all on the machine. I know about decorative stitching, etc., and I KNOW most of you did not seem to like the Martelli tool for binding (which I don't have), BUT, are there any good ideas out there for even, machine binding? I think I might get an attachment for my Bernina....?????

Thanks!

Jil / chicago area

Don't iron your binding and use your walking foot...i machine bind all my stuff. I'm a lousy hand sewer!

I think you're going to have to learn by trial and error. I starch, and iron my binding to minimize some of the stretching. I also pin to avoid stretching.

I've started using Elmer's school glue. Sewing folded straight binding onto the back, turn it over and glue down with the iron. Piece of cake to sew around it. It took two or three quilts to get it just right, I'll never look back.

I have done a couple totally on the machine that came out great. First you need to practice a little on scraps to get your seams right. Another thing I do is after I square up my quilt, I stitch over the edges using a serpentine stitch. It helps hold the fabric and batting together and I find it is a little easier applying the binding that way. It's a personal preference thing, but when I get lazy and don't do it, I wish I had.

Prepare your binding as you usually would. I like to starch my binding as I'm pressing it in half. I usually use 2-1/2" folded in half to 1-1/4." I usually sew to the back using about 3/8" seam allowance, so that when I turn the binding to the front, I've got slightly less than 5/8" on the front (I say slightly less due to the thickness of the batting). I glue baste the binding down on the front, then stitch it 1/8" or a little less from the edge. I try to match the bobbin thread to the back of the quilt. It's nearly impossible to get your stitching in the ditch, but if you do it this way, it comes out nicer on the front, which is where you want the focus anyway.

The reason for practicing on scraps is to get your seam allowance right where you want it. It will vary by the batting you choose and the seam allowance you do. Make notes for yourself about what works (and what doesn't).

Here's a method for machine binding that adds a nice detail to your top and will look nice on the back too.

http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...ge-t77821.html

OK -- here's my plan. If your borders allow it, cut your bindind a bit larger than normal. Say 3 to 3.5 inches. Don't bother to iron. It's too much work. Sew the binding to the back with a .25 inch seam. Pull it to the front and Elmer's glue it down. Sew it to the front with the machine using invisible thread. Because the front binding is wider than the back the line of stitching on the back ends up looking like another quilting line.

I have great success with 2 3/4 inch binding. I sew to the front using my walking foot which makes about a 3/8 inch seam. Then I fold to the back and using my #10 Bernina foot, I stitch in the ditch on the front. Makes a beautiful binding. Just finished 33 jelly roll quilts for the homeless vets here in Memphis.
Lu in TN

I put a written tute on this on the QB quite a while ago. Suggest you search the tutes.

I prefer to hand stitch my binding down but if I have been in a hurry I like this method the best.