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Binding - Which way do you prefer to cut it?
Which way do you prefer to cut your binding strips? and why?
Lengthwise - (parallel to selvage)? Crosswise - (width of fabric)? True bias? Somewhat bias? I prefer bias because I get very nice bindings with it (If I do say so myself). It molds over the raw edges of the quilt sandwich so nicely and the corners behave better (for me, anyway). I do baste the raw edges together before attaching the strips to the quilt instead of pressing the binding in half. I use a long zig-zag stitch close to the edge that gets covered when the binding is attached. Which do you prefer? We could also go into rotary cutter,scissor, and/or tearing and how wide to make the bindings discussions - but that can go on another thread! |
I cut the length of the fabric if it is long enough. I knew nothing when I started, so I cut at 1 1/2 inches. I still do this even now.
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Crosswise if it's a rectangular quilt. I like to have a little give when I apply the binding. Length of fabric does not have any give.
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Since I stopped ironing my binding in half, I find it does not matter which way I cut it, so I do what works easiest based on the print, or other cutting need I have.
Before that change, I had much better luck using true bias. |
Bias only if I am doing curves. All other times across the yardage at 2-1/4 inches for double fold binding. I do bias joins for one long strip.
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i do the same as tartan
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I like to do lengthwise if I can get longer strips that way, just because I don't like the joins.
I never have done a bias binding, I should try it sometime. I cut mine at 2-1/2", partially because I often make scrappy bindings out of leftover strips, and partially because that's what my big Shape Cut ruler size is. (Lazy. I'm lazy!) |
I almost always do a true bias binding. I also almost always do a striped bias binding, the only time I don't is if I can't find a suitable stripe. I use Shelley Rodgers method, http://piraterodgers.com/tutorials/cbt/index.htm
The only time I use straight of grain binding is for mini quilts, whether it's crosswise or lengthwise depends on how big the piece of fabric is. And I never press my binding in half before I sew it to the quilt; saves time and my bindings are easier to sew as well as looking better. Cari |
Originally Posted by MadQuilter
(Post 7858208)
Crosswise if it's a rectangular quilt. I like to have a little give when I apply the binding. Length of fabric does not have any give.
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I love to do binding and love bias for it. it depends on the project I am working on. The fabric plays a big roll in which way I choose.
Using a stripe means cutting on bias sometimes. Curves = bias all the time. If the fabric has a pattern I want to repeat in the binding, I will cut on length or across. So it really depends on the look you are going for and what your fabric is showing you what it can do. I just started using Sharon Shambers method with washable school glue and love the way my bindings turn out. |
Originally Posted by MadQuilter
(Post 7858208)
Crosswise if it's a rectangular quilt. I like to have a little give when I apply the binding. Length of fabric does not have any give.
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I am a true bias. I always have some kind of hinky something, a little fold here or there, if I cut lengthwise or crosswise. Bias is the only way to go for me. I am one of those who doesn't iron the bindings in half. I just fold and sew the binding on, paying close attention to my 1/4" seam.
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I always cut mine crosswise. I've never tried using bias binding. Like Tartan, I join lengths on the bias & cut 2 1/4" strips for double fold binding.
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Originally Posted by Macybaby
(Post 7858211)
Since I stopped ironing my binding in half, I find it does not matter which way I cut it, so I do what works easiest based on the print, or other cutting need I have.
Before that change, I had much better luck using true bias. |
Originally Posted by Tartan
(Post 7858235)
Bias only if I am doing curves. All other times across the yardage at 2-1/4 inches for double fold binding. I do bias joins for one long strip.
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Cutting direction- Whichever way works for the effect I want. So, sometimes lengthwise, sometimes crosswise, occasionally bias.
Size- Depends on how quilt will be used and effect I want. If it's for a baby quilt or bed quilt that gets used a lot then I usually cut at 3" wide for double fold and sew it all by machine using the Martelli tools. This way is fast since the tools help keep me in the ditch on the front side and also keep the binding in exactly the right place on the back so it gets sewn down neatly and is very secure. Other quilts width depends on effect and if it will be in a competition, then hand stitched on back. Rob |
Crosswise for me, unless the quilt has a scalloped edge and then it's got to be bias cut.
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I almost always cut WOF, but will cut bias if doing curves, or if its a striped fabric that I want on bias for design reasons. I cut WOF because I like to keep as much of my fabric as possible intact. if I cut several pieces off the length of it, it's harder to know how much fabric I really have the next time I want to use it for another pattern...
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When binding a straight edged quilt I always cut the binding straight at 2 1/2". I usually cut the fabric for borders and binding using fabric crosswise-wof, therefore less piecing. If binding around a scalloped edge or curved outer edge, you must use binding cut on the bias.
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I am trying to figure out how you attach your binding to your quilt if you don't iron it in half. Can someone help me? If it does save some time I am interested. Thanks
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Originally Posted by juliea9967
(Post 7858832)
I am trying to figure out how you attach your binding to your quilt if you don't iron it in half. Can someone help me? If it does save some time I am interested. Thanks
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I love my bias binding. Seeing straight cut bindings worn bare along the grain line convinced me that bias bindings do last longer.
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Bias only. Straight binding is just too contrary, and has formed a twist every time I have tried it. I used my leftover bindings to create scrappy crochet bath rugs.
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Originally Posted by juliea9967
(Post 7858832)
I am trying to figure out how you attach your binding to your quilt if you don't iron it in half. Can someone help me? If it does save some time I am interested. Thanks
I fold it in half - and then pin the edges together so that the fabric is laying smooth - no warps or bulges or wrinkles on either side of the fold - and then I machine baste the edges together - about 1/8 inch from the edge with a long, slightly zig-zag stitch. I do not remove this stitching. One can, but I don't. It probably does not save any time in the short run - but it is a lot easier for me to control the binding when there is only one "edge" of it to keep track of - and my bindings are excellent (if I do say so myself!) |
Cut my bindings 2 1/4" on the true bias..... do iron it in half but really like the idea of basting raw edges together.....would work well for me because I love handwork anyway.
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Generally, I cut my binding straight, lengthwise of grain, unless there are curves or scallops (and I stay away from them if I can - lol!). If I have curved/rounded corners, I do true bias. I cut the binding 2-1/2", double-fold and stitch to the front, and turn the folded edge to the back, hand-stitch. The reasons I cut binding lengthwise of the grain are: It's far easier to cut it straight, and lengthwise of the grain doesn't stretch, and there's fewer pieces to stitch together (bias seam). I use the method demonstrated by Jenny Doan, MSQC, in her video(except that I cut my binding lengthwise of the grain), and find that my bindings are (almost) perfect.
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Like many of you I prefer bias for large quilts using the straight method only for small quilts that will not be getting hard use. If I take my time pressing and adding to the quilt, I have no trouble with stretching. Next question: Do you always join the binding pieces on the bias? It certainly makes a smother finished look. If this falls close to a corner, I will cut a small piece out and add to the other end of necessary. Sometimes I lightly pin the binding on to make sure the joints are not at the corners. I also like to use a small stripe on many of my quilts. A red and white (cream) binding adds much to small Christmas table toppers, etc. When using stripes, I like to match perfectly the stripes when sewing the pieces together. Probably doesn't make much difference, but that way no one can see where the joints are.
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I'm a bias binding person. The only time I don't use bias is if I am running short on fabric to make the binding.
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I cut bias 2 1/4" if it is for a scalloped or curved corner quilt, otherwise mostly 2 1/2" WOF, unless I have enough for lengthwise. I sew the edges on the bias for one long strip and iron in half. I then apply it to the back of the quilt at about 3/8", fold over to the front and machine stitch next to the folded edge with a straight stitch, adjusting my sewing machine needle to the right and using my blind hem foot with the guide down the middle. I use the point of my seam ripper to hold the fold over to the guide while I am sewing. I do this with all but my show quilts as most of my quilts are given away and I expect to be used or drug on the floor by a child.
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Almost always 2-1/2" bias unless I have the perfect already-cut jelly roll strip. I like a graphically strong binding like stripes or polka dots.
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Usually I cut it WOF, but when the quilt calls for it, I do Bias.
Bias is such a pain to do. Mike |
I almost always cut straight across the WOF.
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I'm glad you raised the question. Most of the time I cut WOF out of habit, unless I want a stripe cut on the bias. Will the corners be easier to miter if I cut lengthwise instead of widthwise?
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I have always done 2 1/4" WOF..until this morning when I made a bias binding for a quilt with inside corners. So, after I put that on perhaps I'll be a convert.
Watson |
I usually cut across as this gives me just a little give if I need it. If I'm using it on a curved piece, I would definitely go bias. Made some oval placemats and had to use bias for them. Watched Missouri Star's video on making bias binding, the cutting of it and though it was a little confusing to me, it worked out just fine.
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I only use a bias on something that is rounded. I also like a three inch cut for my binding on a quilt. I like a beefy binding. Most of the time on the width on the fabric, but there is occasion I prefer the length of grain if the quilting is such as to demand a stable binding.
I used to only use the bias, but, I honestly think working with the straight of grain is a nicer finish and more stable. I do not press any but the bias made binding. Then I use the clover binding making tools. I have them in every size they make and have used them many times for this or that not just quilts. I have even used them in my home deco and clothing construction. |
Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly
(Post 7858435)
I almost always do a true bias binding. I also almost always do a striped bias binding, the only time I don't is if I can't find a suitable stripe. I use Shelley Rodgers method, http://piraterodgers.com/tutorials/cbt/index.htm
The only time I use straight of grain binding is for mini quilts, whether it's crosswise or lengthwise depends on how big the piece of fabric is. And I never press my binding in half before I sew it to the quilt; saves time and my bindings are easier to sew as well as looking better. Cari |
I always use a book by Fons & Porter called Quilter's Complete Guide. I make a tube and it is called a continuous bias strips. It seems to be faster to me when I do it this way.
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