Bobbin work?
 

Hi all,
I know there will be several people who can steer me in the right direction on my question...

I've seen descriptions on various threads about using the thread for "Bobbin Work".
What exactly is this, and what kinds of "gotcha's" do I need to know about? Can I do it on my longarm, or is it strictly for the DSM?

Thanks in advance, everyone!

My understanding of bobbin work is that you can sew with threads too thick to put thru the eye of the needle by putting them in the bobbin and sewing with the piece face down. I used to do some of it with my old New Home with the drop in bobbin. I"m not sure how well it would work on my machines now as they don't have the drop in bobbin and don't look like the bobbin casings would accept a very thick thread.

I don't know anything about the bobbin set up on a long arm, you often do have to loosen the tension on the bobbin to allow the thicker threads to pass thru. You'd have to experiment.

You absolutely can do bobbin work in your longarm, provided of course your longarm isn't fussy about threads and you have the patience to adjust the tensions as needed.
I have a very good friend who does it on her Innova all the time using fabulous threads like Superior Razzle Dazzle or Valdani 12 wt cotton normally used for hand embroidery or felted wool applique. My friend will usually quilt out the line from the top with a monofilament in the top and normal thread in the bobbin, so she has some sort of guide to follow when she flips the quilt over to do the bobbin work. When doing bobbin work on the longarm you have to have the quilt back facing up so your fancy threads are on the top.
I haven't tried it myself but want to soon.

Bobbin work is done with threads that are too thick or uneven to go through the needle, or to stretchy or delicate to go through the upper tension. I wouldn't try it on a longarm - depending on the thread, I would worry that it couldn't handle the higher stitch speeds of the longarm. You would also have to significantly adjust the tension of the bobbin case.

What thread and what project are you considering? With bobbin work, your fancy thread ends up on the back, which is the opposite of how I think of longarming. If you could give more details of what you are considering, people might be able to give better advice.


Edit: felinefanatic posted while I was typing my reply. I believe her that it can be done, but I would be cautious... I really think of it as a domestic machine technique.

yikes that seems like a lot of work wouldn't you have to load the quilt twice then? i don't long arm quilt, but i guess it could be worth it as it is a very nice technique i have seen some bobbin work on display at my brother dealer and it's beautiful.

Thanks for the posts, everyone!

Feline fanatic, your description is very good, with the comment about doing the design on the top initially to give guidelines kind of what I was expecting. Thanks for the comment!

Jennifer23, I didn't really have anything in particular in mind, as another post here on QB sent me off checking out some specialty threads, which then led me to bobbin work, which then had me posting the question.

My DSM is a Viking, and I discovered there is a "specialty thread bobbin case" for my machine, so I'm definitely going to check that out.
In addition, awhile back, I had an opportunity to buy some extra bobbin cases for my longarm (which is also a Viking), so I will probably use one of those as my "bobbin-work" case, and mark it with a Sharpie or something if I can get the tension loose enough for it to work.

Now, another question somewhat related... and Jennifer23, your comment got me thinking of this as well....
Could a specialty thread be so thick/large/special that you cannot put it through the tension disc's? And how would you thread it then?

mandyrose, I occassionally load my quilt twice if I'm doing some really intricate work on the borders. First load gets the top and bottom borders, and main part of the quilt, then I'll take it off, and turn it so the side borders are now the top and bottom. I get a more consistent design that way.

So, that part is the least of my worries.

Wow, a specialty thread bobbin case. That would be great. I'm not sure what you are asking about tension disks. Bobbin work avoids putting the thick thread thru the upper threading (needle and tension disks). If it's too big to go thru the bobbin case, you can always couch it on.

On the tension disks, that question was in regards to threading the thread from the top (on the longarm).
So, do I bypass the top tension altogether if I'm using specialty threads... in the top... on the longarm?

Leta Many specialty threads are way too heavy to run through the top which is why some very inventive sewists turned to bobbin work. You can't bypass your tension discs you will end up with some pretty awful stitching if you tried.

I've done a lot of bobbin work on my art quilts. I use my PQ1500s which has the vertical bobbin rather than the drop in bobbin. I've used RazzleDazzle and other thick, lumpy threads that wouldn't go through a needle and it works very well. On the PQ1500s you just use your regular bobbin case and if necessary adjust the tension on the bobbin case, though I've never had to do that. The only thing that can be a little tricky is that you are working with the quilt face down, so you need to come up with some way of orienting yourself. I usually do FMQ when I'm doing bobbin work, but you can also use the regular stitches.

Since I don't use a frame, it's an easy process to switch back and forth from using threads that can go through the needle to doing bobbin work--just a matter of changing bobbins. I keep a quilt sandwich nearby for checking tension when I'm switching between FMQ bobbin work and FMQ with regular threads.

I bought a special bobbin case for the PC420PRW (drop in bobbin), but haven't tried bobbin work with it yet. According to the info that came with that some of the decorative stitches can be used for bobbin work as well

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One way to solve that problem is to quilt it from the top, with water soluble thread in top and bobbin. Then load the specialty thread in the bobbin, regular thread on top, flip the quilt over to the back side, and quilt it again, using your first pass with the soluble thread as a guide. Once the quilt is bound, wash or soak it and the water soluble thread dissolves. :thumbup:

It is really as simple as what Tartan said. You can't put some of these thick designer threads thru the top of your sewing machine but you can put them in a bobbin so you stitch with the back up. I never particular cared for the look.

Great tip, thanks Peckish!
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I've been thinking of doing this myself, as i have done quite a bit on the normal machines- top loading bobbin. I bought an extra bobbin casing (and the latest Brother had one with it) and took the tension screw out, because with thicker threads like crochet cotton, you don't need much tension, and it doesn't muck up the top tension. I will buy another casing for my TL18" quilter.

As mentioned, you will have to expect your designs to be on the back of the loaded fabric. The Innova has a special - and very expensive - foot to do this on top, and I believe it only fits that machine, I may be wrong.
I will be looking for a photo of what you achieve.

I like to couch better, I can never seem to get the tension right.

I have no personal experience with bobbinwork. But would like to mention a very good article, 'Bobbibwork Embroidery' by Gisela Pugni Spätzle, in the latest issue of Threads Magazine, November 2016, # 187. She discusses threads, winding, tension, stitch length and stabilizers for use on DS. I have no affiliation with the magazine.

thank you, I will be on the lookout for this magazine!

I've also seen it done the Ricky Timm's way. He marks the design on his "stable stuff" interfacing and pins that to the back side of the quilt top (before the quilt is sandwiched). Then he uses the thick thread in the bobbin while following the design lines on the top. The stable stuff stays in the quilt. Now, when he sandwiches the quilt, he can add regular quilting to secure the layers while the thick thread features the fancy design.

I prefer to couch also. I seem to get the same effect with a lot less work. My Bernina has a couching foot that makes couching really easy.

Just in case anyone is interested, I just got my Threads magazine for November 2016 (no idea why I'm getting the November magazine in August) and it has an extensive article on bobbin work. I haven't read it yet, but it looks really good.

Guess this is why I haven't seen it on the newstands yet. Thanks for the heads-up. I should have realized... it's been one of those kinds of weeks.

Perhaps a couching would work better for a long arm machine. You use a couching or ribbon/beading foot and feed the yard or ribbon through the opening and do a zig zag to attach it on the top.

I just went back and read the thread. I guess we all had the same idea. LOL!

LA only do straight stitch. That said, HQ does have a "couching" foot that is designed for doing this work but the operator has to go over the heavy thread/ribbon/yarn with a straight stitch and invisible thread. The foot and maintaining the feed of the yarn through the foot helps to keep those straight stitches on the decorative yarn/thread/ribbon

Innova does have a couching adaptor but it is VERY expensive (like thousands) and it somehow manipulates the stitch to do a true couch (zig zag) so those of us not willing to spend the $$ for the very expensive adaptor must resort to hand couching or bobbin work.

I don't know what the other manufacturers offer and bobbin work is somewhat universal to all machines, no special feet or expensive adaptors required.

I found an older post in the archives of Thread magazine about bobbin work, and am really fascinated now.

I've come to the conclusion that I had better try it on my DSM first (with the "Specialty Bobbin Case" for my machine) and see how I like it before I try to progress to the longarm.