is the outline supposed to be done in satin stitch? or in some other decorative manner?

if that's the case, 30 wt thread might make a stunning impact (if you can find it.) you would need to use at least a size 16 needle.

i agree with those who advise you to not worry. if you can't find 30wt thread, just use what you can find. 40wt should be a bit easier to track down. 50wt is very easy to find. just remember to use the correct needle size and it should be just fine. :-)

Use what you like and what you can afford. That's the only rule I go buy when it comes to quilting products. If it's on sale I have it. I read many experts saying do not use nylon thread, it's too stretchy, too thin, too this or that. I found a big cone at 75% off. Guess what? I'm still using it after several years and it makes great bobbin thread. It doesn't melt when pressing, I steamed and used a linen setting on my iron on a wad of the thread and nothing happened. Don't use glazed or waxed thread in your machine, the residue will mess up the tension discs.

I would make a practice block with a simple applique, and 'audition' all the threads I have stitching an inch or so with each type. Then just pick the one YOU like best. It's your quilt!

The cotton coats & clark I use for piecing - and pretty much whatever else it matches is 30wt. I do have a few threads that are marked 50wt -- and even more that aren't even marked with the wt -- if you really look you can see the difference between the 30 and 50 when they are spread out right next to eachother -- but overall in a project I doubt you would see the difference.

How old are the books that you are referring to? Things and techniques are changed somewhat over the last 30 years, but like so many have said, use what works for you. There are so many great threads out there that were not available even five years ago. Try them all.

I try to remember just what our previous generations sewed with and thank my stars that I have some improvements. But just look at what they turned out with basic equipment.

My iron was researched and I love it. An approx. $30 Black and Decker. My sewing machine right now is a 50 year old Featherweight. (Getting a Bernina 440 in a week or so).

There are so many techniques out there. Elly S. has a book with 12 ways to applique. She says learn all you can and pick what works for you. This one lesson helped me the most. Not everything will work for you but it is a lesson and you remember it for the next project. I have taken probably a hundred classes and have a bookshelf of books and still do it "my way". But every so often, a gem of an idea or technique will appear.

I am very suspicious (normally this way) of anyone who says their way is the very best or the ONLY way to do something. If they are selling something, I run the other direction. If they are teaching something, I carefully inspect their finished product and if I think worthy of the process they created, may try it. But now it takes a lot of work to get me to buy something NEW.

I haven't seen 30 wt but Aurafil makes a 28 wt. I considered buying a few spools as I thought it would be nice for thread work quilting where I really wanted to see the stitching. Bought something else instead (a larger pack of their 50 wt which I KNEW I would use).

I like sulkys 30wt cotton, goes through my machine very nice

I agree with many of the respondents, cheap irons do the job for years. Most important to me, in an iron, is the automatic shut off feature. It comes in handy when I or my mind wander.

I bought my Bernina last year and was told nothing or read nothing about any special wt of thread. I spent $2,900 on the machine so I am sure, some where, even in small print, it would have said something. I think maybe they were trying to build the ticket and get you to purchase the thread they sell.