Crooked stitches with Janome MC8200
 

Hi there
Can anyone tell me if this is the best straight stitching I can expect from a Janome MC8200 or similarly priced machine?

All my work is straight stitching and it really needs to be close to perfect. I've been testing over the last several months and thought I had nailed it with a wool batting (light and moves through easily), a huge extension table to help with smooth passage through, straight stitch plate, Acufeed foot, a microtex needle, and a very slow speed. But now I realise that it only really looked ok because my thread close to the fabric colour - when I look at a dark thread on a paler ground, which I sometimes can't avoid using, it looks awful to me.

In this example I've really allowed the dogs to pull the fabric through on their own, just a very light hand keeping the sandwich from skewing. I've used various threads - left to right, there's a pale aurifil, a green machine embroidery thread, black Gutermann sew it all and navy Madeira Aerofil on the right. The Fabric is Kaufman Essex Linen, starched and the batting is heirloom wool. Changing the presser foot pressure seems to make no difference.

What do you all think - is this the best it gets? Do any of you get a run of stitches without a crooked one every 5 or so and if so - what machine do you have?

And anyone ever used an industrial machine to straight stitch - a geared one with speed control? I'm thinking this might be my only solution - I am an artist (targeting art collectors rather than quilt collectors) and they need to be as consistent as possible to justify what I need to charge for a piece to make any kind of living!

Thanks so much to anyone who can help.

Would you consider a straight Stitch only machine? Check out the Brother PQ1500

I definitely would Alyce though it looks like they're quite hard to get hold of here in the UK. Have you used one, were you impressed?
And do you think I'm right about the quality of the stitches in the pix?

I would be fine with your stitches, but, then again, your needs are different. I have two of those Brother machines. Long story why, nothing to do with quality, just family situation at the time, but, both are great for my purposes. Nice straight stitches, not really industrial, but, heavy duty, in my opinion. I can do free motion quilting easily, takes any thread except Madiera go figure. Others here have them and seem to like them too. Supply is an issue lately.

Maybe this will help.


https://web.archive.org/web/20110818...-about-it.aspx

I have a Janome Magnolia that I purchased in 2009 & after I got it home that was the same thing that I noticed about it. The line of stitching was like yours....not totally straight. Since my sewing does not require it to be perfect or close to perfect it does not bother me at all. I don't know if this is true on all Janome machines but I do know that my Singer sews very, very straight stitches.

I think the best Straight stitch machines are the ones that just do a straight stitch. The needle in any machine that does more than a straight stitch is designed to "Move" side to side somehow. yep....can get a bit of a wobble. The best machine I had for doing a perfect straight stitch was a Viking mega quilter. It only did straight stitch. There are other machines like that out there and some folks say even the old singers in a treadle do wonderful straight stitches. I did like the Mega quilter as it also had a scissors and a needle up/down setting which the old singers do not and it also had more throat space.

Perhaps try ruler quilting?

I think it is very difficult to sew "a straight line".

That is my problem with most machines. It seems the stitches get skewed as you have noted. Spending that much money on a machine, I guess I expect straight stitches. However, I do understand the point made that as these machines are made to sew out all kinds of decorative stitches, which allows slight motion of the needle for those jogged stitches. From what I have seen, those stitches seem to be normal for machines at this level.

I would suggest a straight stitch only machine as well. I'm glad I read your post. I plan to add a straight stitch only machine in the hopefully near future, but as I am still researching, I have second guessed my decision, wondering if I should be considering a Janome or other model. My first machine was a Janome MC4800, so when I upgraded a number of years ago, I naturally tried Janome machines first. That said, in general I've never been as impressed with the Janome machines I have tried, this being one of the reasons. I will say I recently sewed on a Skyline 7, that one did surprise me. But I digress - I have a machine that has all the fancy stitches, and that machine is more than I want to spend for what I am after.

I want that bigger throat space for FMQing plus the ability of the machine to handle layers (and sometimes just seam intersections that the other machines seem to complain about). Hopefully you can find a source for one in the UK. Both Juki and Brother are very popular here for straight stitch only machines. Beautiful stitches (both straight FMQing). Brother is a little less expensive here.

I have the Juki TL2010-q which is as straight stitch only machine, I love it. One nice thing it has is a speed control slider, so you can go from very slow up to 1500 stitches per minute. I am a new sewer (just about a year) and I just looked at the seams of my latest piece, and the stitches look pretty darn perfect. So I think if you test drive one of these you might be pleased with the result.
The TL series is the one that can be sold online, the QVP/Haruka are all the same machine but are the models sold in shops (they come with more accessories and at least one has a microlifter, but the machine itself is the same).

Something to try - repeat the test with a typical quilting cotton instead of linen. If that looks ok, try a lightweight fusible on the back of the linen and repeat the test.

Linen has a looser weave and a tendency to stretch. It could be that the fabric stretching during stitching and relaxing back into place afterwards is what's making the stitches go more "wonky" than expected.

That said, machines capable of decorative stitches will always have a slight angle to them. If straight stitches are important, a straight stitch machine will have the advantage.

Juki's TL series might be worth considering.

A finer weave fabric will produce a straighter stitch. A smaller stitch length will produce a straighter stitch. And if you tighten both the top and bottom tensions a little, that will help produce a straighter stitch.

Thanks for the link - that was very informative!

I was thinking the same about the linen. Linen tends to be a looser weave that might skew the stitchs.

I also agree with the Juki TL 2010 or the 2200 QVP MIni (same machine, different accessory package). Its a good straight stitch machine.

Argh sorry - I keep typing answers and then the token expires and they go pouf!
@eliza422 That's really good to know - I will chekc the Juki out.
@DawnFurlong Glad I'm not the only one!
@bearisgray Straight stitching *is* hard! But I've worked and worked on my technique and am happy with the actual straightness of the lines now - it's just the stitches themselves!
@sewingpup Hmm - there is a Viking MegaQuilter on Ebay for £500 right now - I'm tempted to make them an offer! I have another Viking I could get rid of..
@osewme That's *very* interesting. I love my Janome in every other respect - just the blimming stitch straightness.
@JanieW Thank you, that's so useful - I will do those tests. I wouldn't have a problem with skewed stitches if they were all skewed and regular, but it's quite random.

@mkc and @cashs_mom - so interesting about the properties of linen! I will definitely try now with another fabric and report back.
I also realised that the tension is wrong on the darker stitches in the example photo. I will try again with it set better and also follow your suggestion of tighttening the tension @quiltedsunshine - good plan.

More testing to do, and a service I think - and I'll keep my eyes peeled for a Juki TL 2010 in the meantime.

Thanks so much everyone, I really appreciate the suggestions.

Do you have a single hole plate on your machine? Sometimes that will be what helps keep stitches straight. Just remember to change back to the other one when you want to do decorative stitches!

Have you tried a test by sewing on paper without thread? How about a smaller needle?

If you want a perfect straight stitch, get a vintage straight stitch machine (before 1960). You’ll be amazed.

FYI, the 2200 QVP Mini was discontinued fairly quickly and had been replaced with the 18QVP (which offers improved lighting and adds a micro lift adjustment for the presser foot, but is otherwise a 2010).

The 2020PE is a silver-finished 2010 with several additional feet (mostly hopping feet for the US market; garment making for the Japanese market).

I have a HD9 V2 straight stitch only machine, sews through leather, 16 plus layers of fabric, not that I would, has a large Bobbin with a quarter more thread. Most sewists a re buying this machine for purses, totes, jeans, upholstery, boat covers and quilting. You do have to oil it alot. But only takes 4 tiny drops in 4 places. The Bobbins are metal, and cost a little more, but this machine is worth it. REMEBER ALL JANOMES, along with other brands made over seas, are going up on price now. And the dealers have put out warning notices that machines will be scarce due to shipping issues. Check the dealers. The HD9 runs at 1600 stitches per minute. Fast Machine, good straight stitch, no zig zag. You can do FMQ and ruler work in this Machine. You can get extra feet for industrial machines for very low prices. Lots to offer. Check out the HD9 facebook group

Microtex needles (generally for piecing, not quilting) and starched fabric (harder to pierce than unstarched??? Perhaps a trial run with a Schmetz chrome size 90 quilting needle may produce a more consistent stitch.

I have no idea how much a Janome MC8200 goes for, so I can't tell you if all "similarly priced machines" are the same. But I will tell you that my Brother 1500 is an awesome machine with a perfect stitch. It's mechanical and straight-stitch only.

I agree that the only way to get a truly straight seam is with a straight stitch only machine. I have three vintage machines set up. My straightest stitcher is a Singer 15 clone made for Montgomery Wards - probably from the 50s. My 1949 Necchi is another. The slant needle Singers are very good, but not as perfect as the two mentioned.

I have Janome machines, I worked in a Janome shop and sold them. They are a good machine. I switched to Bernina machines for my own studio just because of the reason you stated. My complaint is more the jagged (herringbone) looking stitch that I think comes more with the drop in bobbin and the tension they produce. I think your pictures may be more related to the type of fabric used. I think the straight stitch only machines are a good option. I am happy with my stitch on my Berninas.

Interesting. The lighting isnt' great on the 2200, but I have a lot of other lighting in my sewing room so it's not bad. I like the 2200 because it came with a nice package of feet that that 2010 didn't have. At least that's what I was told.

I believe the 18QVP comes with the same feet the 2200 did. The 2020 adds a few more, but they are just more variations of hopping feet - open toe, 1/5", 1/4", echo foot, ruler foot since the hopping foot doesn't have an interchangeable toe. Both have the zipper, rolled hem, walking/even feed, and compensating feet.

The 18QVP and 2020 do have the new replaceable tool plate next to the throat plate (for attaching things like binding tools, seam guides, etc.. Instead of just threaded screw holes in the machine casting, there's a plate insert that can be replaced if the screw holes wear out. Did the 2200 have that?

I've been researching straight stitch machines since I've gotten into more home dec sewing (but not enough to justify an industrial machine).

I learned to straight stitch by using newspaper advertisement columns bars, just stitch up the length of the full page lines dividing ads, practice-practice -practice ....

No..you can get better stitches on that, (or any) machine. I suspect that your presser foot is riding too high and the fabric is shifting as you sew..look in your owners manual and see if there's an adjustment for the presser foot...also, check to see if your screw that attaches the foot is tight....also, make sure you're using the correct needle and that it's up into the needle bar all the way.

You didn't say if you were using the accufeed foot or not. Your batting seems puffy, an accufeed foot may help, and also moving your needle. If your needle is.closer to feed dogs, I heard that helps too. But accufeed foot would help.

@donna13350 I've just come back to this very useful thread and I missed your post earlier. Do you mean foot pressure or height? On the Janome I can adjust foot pressure but not height above the dogs..
@Ladydiana Yes, I was using Accufeed. It was actually a bit better with the basic walking foot!

I have the Janome HD9 V2 and love it. Straight stitch only, larger bobbin. There is a youtube video out there that is titled why I purchased the Janome HD9 versus the JUKI 2010Q.
The HD9 v2 has some better features. Good luck on your quest.

Some of your stitches look perfect to me. Perhaps your batting is affecting your stitches. Test on just two pieces of fabric.
Also, try moving your needle where your needle comes down closest to where your pressure foot comes down over the "most" feed dogs. It is hard to explain this, except to say,
The pressure in the feed dogs helps keep everything snug while your piece is moving through the machine . Putting your needle closer to the right side, rather than in the middle helps with less movement under the needle. I will see if I can find the video on The QUILT Show that covers this, I'm not very good at explaining.

I found the video. It is by Susan Cleveland. It is called Secretsofimpeccablepiecingdemo (all run together) on Youtube.. it is about 4 miniutes into the video.
Susan explains how to.get your needle to the right, so your quarter inch is over the feed dogs for bette control. Susan also explains this on a the quilt show program.
hope this helps.

Thanks very much @Ladydiana I will go and find that video. Also will test with increased pressure!

My information was for Piecing I don't know if this also works for free motion, to have your needle to the right with your fabric under the right feed dog. Some people Freemotion Quilt with their feet dog Up, but most folks have their feet dogs down.

My information was for Piecing I don't know if this also works for free motion, to have your needle to the right with your fabric under the right feed dog. Some people Freemotion Quilt with their feet dog Up, but most folks have their feet dogs down.

My Singer 301s are straight stitch only and sew a straight line. The straightest stitching machine I have is 15 clone made for Montgomery Wards - probably from the 50s. I bet my 1949 Necchi is, too, but I have never checked it. I agree that you need a straight stitch machine to get a perfectly straight stitch.
I had a Pfaff that wiggled when I didn't want it too welded. It sews straight now.