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Cutting long strips of fabric
I have a quilt that requires me to cut long strips of fabric (about 90"), parallel to the salveges. I don't know how to do this. Anyone out there who could help me?
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Most people will rip when cutting long strips along the lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvedges). How wide are the strips? Rips along the lengthwise grain turn out much better than rips across the fabric (from selvedge to selvedge).
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I had to do this in a class I took. We refolded the fabric end to end and taped two long rulers together. The teacher held onto the rulers and I used the rotary cutter. Gotta tell you - it wasn't the most fun thing I've ever done and I can't believe the teacher held those rulers while I was moving that blade towards her. I think I would have done it the other way. I now have a pattern that has me cutting two 6 1/2" strips the length of fabric and I'm a little nervous.
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I'm one that won't rip. I don't trust that it's always straight, it ripples the edges and you will still have to cut that edge to get it straight (not rippled).
I fold it as many times as necessary that I'm comfortable with, then make one generous cut (ie if I need 5" I'll cut 5.25"). When you fold it you need to make sure that it folds on the straight of grain or you'll get that dreaded V in the fold. With 90" of fabric ... that may be difficult hence the generous 5.25". Once I have the 90" cut, I'll then use a pair of rulers to make sure that any V's are removed and the whole 90" is straight. Or ... depending on the fabric you can always piece it. If it's a solid (or tonal, or small print) then it's a cinch to piece. If it's a larger print you'll have to cut extra to match the seams. I've also found that when piecing borders or long sashing a diagonal seam where pieced helps hide piecing more than a horizontal seam. Another option if it's sashing that you are doing is to employ corner blocks instead of a solid piece of sashing. This way, it looks like you planned it that way! The LAST option, which is what I did the first time I had to cut a long piece of sashing ... I went to my husband's shop and laid the fabric on the floor (which is always clean), then I used a 12' length of aluminum (4" wide by 1/4" thick) to cut the fabric. My husband and his buddy stood on each end of the aluminum while I moved along the floor cutting! Yes ... it worked, but it was not fun and it's not always easy to find a 12' length of something that is dead straight (don't trust wood 2x4's - those are not straight!). |
i was taught to rip fabric when i wanted it straight, it is in fact, the way to straighten it.... i do it all the time, and when ripping 3 or 4 strips, i clip them all at their perfect width and then rip a yard or so at a time one after another, which is faster than ripping one all the way and then doing the whole thing over... just support each strip evenly before you pull....
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I lay my fabric open with the cutting edge on the mat. Then I align the ruler with the selvage and cut until I dang near run out of mat. I slide the fabric down, realign the ruler on the cut (overlapping a little) and keep cutting. I have never had trouble doing it that way. I cut the first piece about 1/2" larger because I need to trim the selvage.
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Rip it. Most accurate way. Press the ripply edge. No muss no fuss - and fast!
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Originally Posted by MadQuilter
(Post 4888199)
I lay my fabric open with the cutting edge on the mat. Then I align the ruler with the selvage and cut until I dang near run out of mat. I slide the fabric down, realign the ruler on the cut (overlapping a little) and keep cutting. I have never had trouble doing it that way. I cut the first piece about 1/2" larger because I need to trim the selvage.
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I cut like Martina does. The first time I had to cut long strips for my borders I used a fine pencil and ruler then cut. Worked great.
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I do this too....I only rip when I am roughly dividing up large pieces into project sized bits. Maybe its my ripping technique but it stretches too much and I feel I waste more fabric.
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