Welcome from Canton, GA. Looks like you've already been given some good and useful info regarding thread. Don't forget to see what brand and fiber content your "machine" likes. I have a very finicky Pfaff machine that will like my thread choice one day then the next day refuse to sew with it. Also be aware of the lint produced from 100% cotton thread and the build up in your machine.

Here is what I have learned. Cotton will hold up better than polyester. Use the same kind of thread on like fabrics, cotton fabric and cotton thread. Polyester is said to cut thru the cotton fabric and it won't hold up as well in the long run. I don't know if this is true because I haven't tested it. Same thread in top for sewing as in the bobbin; lots less headaches when they match. I try to use mainly cotton thread when quilting and when piecing, I always use Aurifil. It is a 50wt 2ply thread. Its very strong and low lint. I started using it for piecing because I couldn't get my blocks to come out to the right size; the smaller the block with more seams the more off it would be. Having only 2 ply makes a big difference and now my blocks come out good. It's a good thread with lots of colors even though I normally use a natural color and then it blends in really good.

I'm not knocking polyester and use it when I'm embroidering or other things.

I second the recommendation that you read Superior's website, it has fabulous information. There is an "Education" tab that will give you tons of info about all different kinds of thread, which needles to use, .

I used to use Coats & Clark and Connecting Threads' Essentials, but recently switched to Bottom Line. It's 60 weight, strong, fine, sinks into the fabric. I LOVE it for hand applique and hand-binding. I avoid serger thread and embroidery thread; in my experience those two types of thread are not as strong.

Two things to keep in mind when you're using thread, no matter what kind or brand: thread weight and needle size. For thread, a smaller number equals a heavier thread. 40 wt is fairly heavy, 50 is about average and is what you'd normally see in garments, 60 is pretty fine. You want to make sure you're using a needle appropriate for the thread. If you are using a 40 wt thread, you will want to avoid using a needle with a smaller eye, because that thread will drag in the eye and shred.

I used to use 50wt 3ply thread for piecing, but once I tried Aurifil 50wt 2ply thread I was hooked! It's finer and smoother, seams press better, and I have better accuracy using it. Plus there is a lot less lint to deal with it and the bobbin doesn't have to be changed as often (because the thread is finer, the bobbin holds more of it).

For me, the main reason to use Aurifil on top and 60wt bobbin thread on the bobbin is cost. Threadart 60wt poly bobbin thread is $6 for 5,000 meters. Aurifil costs about 3 to 4 times as much. My one concern is that the poly might eventually cut through the cotton. I know that is not supposed to be a concern any more, but when I test the poly it is *really* strong and I know cotton thread can dry out over time.

I may eventually bite the bullet and pay to use only great quality cotton thread but, since my current level of quilting is not what I would consider even near heirloom quality, I'm not worrying about it right now.

I love Aurifil 50wt 2ply for quilting on my domestic machine, but it will not be strong enough for my machine frame setup. The seller told me that 40wt Aurifil will work well in the top, but 50wt will break. I believe on the machine frame setups it's common to use a thicker thread on top and a finer thread in the bobbin.

My bet is that Masterpiece thread from Superior (which is touted as a great piecing thread) is very similar to Aurifil 50wt 2ply, but I have not tried Masterpiece so can't be sure.

A lot has to do with the sewing machine. Some machines are persnickety - others not so much. One of my machines does not like Coats and Clark, the other doesn't mind. Another issue is lint. Polyester threads are not linty at all. Some cotton threads (like Connecting Threads) are quite linty. I generally use cotton thread for everything because I have tons of it. (Bought on sale.) The old rumor is that Polyester thread breaks the fabric but that myth has been debunked. I'd suggest that you try a few different types and see what you and your machine like. Then look out for sales.

Welcome, Greg, from California.
For piecing, I LOVE Aurifil 50 wt cotton. For machine quilting (with my 15" Bailey) I use essential pro 3ply 70 wt polyester from Connecting Threads. I recently quilted a small piece (on my Singer 15-91) using size 70 bobbin thread and this thread became almost invisible, allowing the quilting itself to shine. I decided to give the bobbin thread a try after it was recommended by Karen McTavish in a class I took at the Machine Quilters Expo in Portland recently.

I've seen a lot of negativity about Coats-N-Clark thread lately, but I really haven't had a problem with it. A lot will depend on your machine. Some machines like some threads better than others. My vintage machines seem to handle just about any thread, with the exception of nylon invisible thread.

I use Aurifil or Presencia 50 wt as top thread and Bottom Line in the bobbin.

One thing that I would add here is ALWAYS LOOK at your spool and read what it says.....
The one absolute thread you do NOT want to use in your machine is Hand Quilting Thread, it has a finish on it that your machine will not like at all....that being said I would only use Machine Quilting thread for quilting not piecing. Also so threads do shed more lint than others so I would also recommend you look at your bobbin case every time you put a new bobbin in and clean with a little brush all the lint....that lint build up is what can Kill your machine faster than anything....IMHO:shock:

I love Signature threads. they are not expensive but have great quality and colors.

Superior Threads education clears up all the old wives tales and myths and use to be about thread.