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The associate did not mention the foam overlayment. Is this kind of like the foam that you put under a carpet? Also, what is the vinyl barrier you mentioned? I am not sure what you mean by that. You also said to put that between my "rubber floor and the laminate". Is that the same thing as the foam and floating floor? Does any of this attach to the floor itself?
I guess I will have to ask these questions tomorrow when I pick up the flooring. Thanks for the warning and the advice. I hope you can respond to this before I buy the flooring tomorrow. |
Here's my 2 cents worth, stick on tile doesn't take long to put down, easy to fix if you have another leak. put a large piece of bound carpet where you are going to be working which will make it easy on your feet and back, and you can move it around.
okie3 |
It's a very thin foam that comes on a roll. It's approximately an 1/8 inch thick and about 36 inches wide. It cushions the floor and separates the flooring from the slab and keeps the concrete from wearing the reverse side of the flooring. Since it is foam it also makes the laminate seem a bit softer to walk on and work on. Carpet pad would not work because it would move way too much and it's too thick. Pergo was the first to use the concept, and that is where the moniker of "a floating floor" came from. Because you glued the tongues of Pergo and never nailed it, you laid the floor on the foam padding and it "floated" above the subfloor or slab.
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Originally Posted by Cookn
Have you thought about putting down rubber "jig saw" tiles that interlock ? supposedly they are good under a longarm and frame. They keep down noise and vibration. They are super easy to keep clean, you can damp mop if you want. They're comfortable to walk on, and they also insulate a little. If you do have a water leak, they are easy to take up and dry out. They don't absorb much water. If one gets damaged you can just replace it. They are 2'x2' squares and they cover a large area quickly. The Depot stocks them usually, depending on the size of the store, but if they don't stock them they can special order them. They also stock or can order different colors and designs, you can make a really neat floor. They also have another product designed for garage floors that works on the same principle, that is a harder composition, that is nice. If we didn't already have carpet in the room our longarm and frame is going in, it's the way I would go.
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Originally Posted by Cookn
Have you thought about putting down rubber "jig saw" tiles that interlock ? supposedly they are good under a longarm and frame. They keep down noise and vibration. They are super easy to keep clean, you can damp mop if you want. They're comfortable to walk on, and they also insulate a little. If you do have a water leak, they are easy to take up and dry out. They don't absorb much water. If one gets damaged you can just replace it. They are 2'x2' squares and they cover a large area quickly. The Depot stocks them usually, depending on the size of the store, but if they don't stock them they can special order them. They also stock or can order different colors and designs, you can make a really neat floor. They also have another product designed for garage floors that works on the same principle, that is a harder composition, that is nice. If we didn't already have carpet in the room our longarm and frame is going in, it's the way I would go.
My brother has laminate flooring. It's older, so maybe they have improved on it, but the one thing I don't like about it is that it is so noisy when you walk on it with shoes. |
Originally Posted by sandiphi
Thank you everybody that responded to my dilemma. I am going to go to home depot tonight and see what they suggest. I would like to carpet it, but I am not sure how well my cutting table (5 feet long) will move around on the carpet. But then I want tile, because the cutting table would easily move around, and it is pretty easy to lay down. I know I am going to have to do some prep work to the floor because the paint is chipped in some areas. Errr, I wish the guy that we bought the house from prepared this floor the proper way. I wouldn't have this problem right now. But, he wanted a quick way to fix a problem so he could sell the house.
Anyways, thanks for all the suggestions. |
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I finished my floor :D What a big difference in there now. I ended up using Traffic Master Allure-Resilient flexible floating floor planks. They were so easy to use and lay down. I also like them because they are waterproof. I did my whole room myself. Took about a total of 24 hours to do myself (my room 480 sq ft, 20x24). It looks just like a real wood floor. Now, I just have to put the rest of the room together. I am still waiting for my cutting table to be built, I have a shelf and book case on order too. Can't wait to get these pieces in so that I can set up my long arm. Woohooo. :mrgreen: Here are a couple of pics, before and after.
entrance area [ATTACH=CONFIG]30920[/ATTACH] cement floor with water damage [ATTACH=CONFIG]30922[/ATTACH] sewing machine desks [ATTACH=CONFIG]30923[/ATTACH] |
You did a great job!! I'm just starting on our "Studio" this week. I'll do my least favorite thing over the weekend, painting, shoot me now. Next week I'll start on all the custom cabinets and built ins. We should pick up our longarm next week. It's gonna be great when I get it all tied together.
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Our basement is also a "dungeon" - but after painting the walls pink, it is less awful.
We put in commercial grade carpeting about 20 years ago. It was a remnant, and it looks like the stuff that's used in hotel lobbies. It has held up awesomely. Cat barf comes out of it easily. It has no padding. I'd say the pile is about 1/4 to 3/8 inches high. Much nicer to be on than bare concrete. Our floor was poured in sections and is uneven. Carpet is just laid down. It doesn't seem to curl up on the edges. |
Your new floor looks beautiful!! Great job on getting it installed
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