Disappearing hour glass
 

Just watched tute from MSQC on DHG again...and at the very beginning when she is sewing the two layer cakes together she mentioned about cuts not being consistent....then I watched her sewing and it looks like to me that she was following the white square edge for her seam, but the print fab was short.....thus a real "skinny" seam allowance....in my mind that is a perfect way to get frayed seams.....they simply unravel........ So I think when I do this pattern, which I really like I will, as someone here suggested, cut my initial squares at 9-1/2" and go from there..

Did you see the tutorial Tartan did for a 12 1/2" block? http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...a-t249219.html

I cut my squares to 9.5 from stash. Then I was able to place the ruler at exactly 4 inches. They are coming out really really nice. I am using patriotic colors for a veteran quilt. I have no trouble with bias edges.

Yes, since I too will be working from stash I like your plan! I am not concerned about the bias edges......i just don't want to fiddle with fraction of inches for tri-cuts......want easy-peasy

Yes, great tute there too! Will also keep that one in bookmark

What Jenny did was sew 1/4" seam on the smallest piece of fabric thus having more of the larger fabric in the seam allowance. She says this when sewing the two together.

Jenny's system is fine in some cases, but what if both of the pre-cuts are too small? Or what if one is too big and the other is ok? You almost need to check each pair before sewing to decide what kind of adjustment to make. I would rather do the cutting myself accurately in the first place.

Thanks for telling me about this tutorial it is a really good one so clear and she made it look so easy, Thanks again

That WAS a mighty skimpy seam there!

It always seemed to me that Jenny's presser foot is right on the edge of the fabric when she sews. Any possibility she's using a quarter inch presser foot? If so, then she's sewing on the inside of the pinked cut, so the inside points are 1/4" from the seamline.

...just my take...

I know Jenny said to cut at 1/3 the block. I don/t think it would matter exactly where you make the cuts, as long as they are consistent. The pieces are not changing position within the block, just being turned. Maybe I need to look at it a little closer.

The pieces are being reassembled as a 9-patch - so I think each section should end up being the same size - so it will go together nicely.

I would like to just make a quick comment. I too saw that tutorial and found that it may confuse some beginners on some important quilting tips. She isn't pressing carefully on that tut and after all this time everyone talks about setting the seams I noted she did not, so I wonder what changed with that. I think people should ask questions if they have them about video's they see because some of them are not good for beginners or more advanced people. I have noted people trying to sell products that aren't ironing or pressing their fabrics, which drives me nuts. It is always important to press your fabric and not cut wrinkled fabric. Things like that. Anyway, that quick comment was kind of long.lol

My first one I was using too wide a cut. The end corners didn't have the different color corner. The pieces did all fit but a different pattern was made.

Is this a "do as I say, not as I do"? She does things quickly, which is good, but sometimes, some things fall by the wayside. She "irons" instead of presses. (I do, too, many times.) I think we have to watch and learn, and then do it our way, which may take a few moments longer.

I tried these out yesterday. My center cut was not exactly 1/3, but it was 2 1/4" -easy to see on the ruler and close enough- and it fit together fine. But in the process, I forgot to turn the center block which ended up making these flower things, which I like, too.
I think part of Jenny's charm is that she IS very loose about everything, but as a result, she sometimes doesn't address ' things quilters should do' like pressing, not ironing, especially with those bias edges, and starting out with pieces that fit, not just throwing it together and take "whatever" for a seam allowance. Yes, if you know what you're doing and how things should turn out - fine. But if you're just learning, and want accurate directions....

I can't wait to get one of these going!

Susan

Jenny specicifally says to sew the seam allowance using the SMALLEST piece if the blocks are not cut the same. I have made HST using thei method and it is much easier than marking and sewing each piece when making a lot. However you need to be carefull when pressing since this method put the HST on the bias. Also the advantage of using any pre-cut fabric is the variety of fabric that you get. Just the thought of choosing 20+ fabric gives me a head.

The 3 cuts need to be exactly the same measurement in both directions. It will make a difference if the cuts are not exact in thirds, as when you turn the smaller blocks to make the pattern them they will not match up and give you accurate points; it will turn out wonky. I made the Disappearing Pinwheel using her tutorial. Some of little blocks did not match when I turned them to put them back together.

Help! I am starching the heck out of the fabric before the first stitch thinking that will help with the bias edges. It's helping some, but is there something else I can do to keep the edges straight?

As a new quilter and clumsy in my old age, I am not good with the bias edges. I just did it the old fashioned way using 7 1/2 inch blocks, sewing corner to corner and squaring up to a 13 1/2 inch block after sewing the hourglass. I cut the block at 4 1/2 inches and ended up with a 12 1/2 inch block after squaring up just a wee bit from the edges, being careful to keep the corners as even as possible so they would match up. It is working for me so if you don't like bias edges, there is an alternative which most of you I'm sure are already aware.

It would be a little extra work but you could use your walking foot and sew a basting (stay) stitch on those bias edges. I'm getting ready to try some blocks this afternoon. My fabrics are in the washer right now!! I got a can of Niagra Spray starch to use on them. I am not normally a starch user, I prefer the discontinued Bounce Ironing Spray (I stocked up when I found out it wasn't going to be manufactured anymore!) or Mary Ellen's Best Press but I think the Starch is going to do a better job of stabilizing those dreaded bias edges. I plan on using a LOT of it!!! We will see on my practice blocks!! I know that some quilters will use enough starch to make the fabric feel almost like paper. . .

The only sure fire way to stop the bias stretching is to put lightweight fusible strips in an X on each block before cutting. I buy it by the 1/2" width roll for when I'm sewing anything with bias. It doesn't make the seams stiff, I can't tell it's there. It only takes a few seconds and makes a world of difference.

What a FABULOUS idea!!!!!!

I was thinking about doing that - thank you for the dimensions.

The MSQC method might be great if one wanted to set the blocks on point. Then the grain lines would be parallel to the quilt edges when the quilt was completed.

I'm doing her Big Star quilt now & had to cut all my Layer Cakes to 9 1/2 also just due to none of the squares being 10 x10.

I was getting not so great blocks and then decided to trim the HST to 6 inches. That really helped. The finished block was a little wonky and around 10 1/4. I trimmed them to 10 inches and they look great. I lost a little bit of the small corner triangles but now have nice even sized blocks.

I cut 6 1/2" hst with my Go die. So I didn't have to use 10" squares.