Thanks for your answers Ladies I'm going to try this method on a placemat.

Sometimes.

I did just recently on a baby play quilt and it worked out just fine. Have to admit it went lots faster than the usual method.

I have done this for years in particular when I am making serviceable quilts of corduroy with flannel backing and tacking it together with yarn(no batting needed). Looks terrific. Regarding as to how long it lasts I am still using quilts I made this way with my mother before she died in 1978. They really take a beating, on beds, on floors, camping out, whatever. I purchase any corduroy on sale, save it until I get in the mood and then cut out my 6x8 blocks. Do not always sew them at that time, just when I need a gift or want something simpler to do than a more involved top. To make sure these tops really last I go over the blocks where sewn together with fancy embroidery stitches on my machine, then layer the top onto the flannel so I can yarn tie the two pieces together. Last step is to fold the binding on top of the corduroy, pin and sew. Perfer binding to be about 2 1/2" showing. I went into more detail this time because these quilts turn out to be so serviceable and attractive that I want the beginner quilters to feel comfortable starting one. I do from kid size (smaller blocks) to king size but most are twin size as that is just about right for laying all covered up on the couch in the winter to watch TV.

This was the way I was taught as a kid. It was my job to do the hemming on an old treadle machine!

Never used binding until after I retired and started taking quilting classes.

Now a days I choose the method which works best for the quilt.

When I use fleece, minkee or a nice flannel for the backing, I will hem the quilt, otherwise I use a double fold binding.

For hemming:
I will trim the batting even with the quilt top.
I will trim the backing two inches all the way around.
I will then take my long ruler and line up the 45 degree line even with the quilt top at the corner of the quilt.
Making sure the side of the ruler is 1/4 inch past the top of the quilt corner (seam allowance) I will slice off the corner of the quilt.
Then I will pull the sides of the backing together (right sides together) and starting from the corner sew a 1/4 inch seam half way and backstitching to lock the seam.
Then I will trim a little at the corner to reduce the bulk, making sure I don't cut the seam thread.
Then "pop" the corner.
This makes a nice mitered corner and reduces the bulk on the corner.
Repeat for the other 3 corners.
Then I tuck the rest of the hem down and stitch around the quilt using a quilting foot.
This gives a nice one inch hem all the way around.

Fleece, minkee and flannel are tougher than the cotton used in making binding. The quilts that I did this to several years ago are still holding up really well.

I usually do for lap quilts but not bed size...

I use a separate binding but have thought about using the backing and bringing around to the front.

I've done it a couple of times and like it but like the traditional binding better. I will still do it when I think the circumstances call for it. I just finished a picnic/beach quilt made from old jeans and I"m going to use this method for it.

A separate double-fold binding will wear longer.
And if you bring the back around it may not be a match for the front fabric.
And the opportunity for a final 'statement' with your binding is gone.
And last, quilting shrinks the body of the quilt, and by folding the backing fabric around for binding, the edges end up wavy.
Yet I sometimes will use that method on charity quilts as it is so much faster IF: the fabric is a good complement for the front, the batting is flat, and the quilting isn't heavy.

Here's a complete tutorial, just scroll down to the fourth photo called "Mitered Corner Baby Blanket" http://rocknquilts.blogspot.com/2011...nquilts-6.html
Mary Ann @ RocknQuilts.blogspot.com