Doing E to E on a Mid Arm
 

I want to do an edge to edge over all quilting design on my next quilt, but it is way out of my comfort zone.

The pattern I am using is below and I would normally do quilting in each block that set off the design and filled in the open areas, but this time, I want an over all pattern like you see long arm quilters do and I'm not sure how to begin. (I know long arm quilters usually are computerized, but I've seen some people do this on their mid arm, free hand)

Does anyone have any tips about designs to use or even where on the quilt to begin? (Upper corner and go across or do it in quadrants from the centre or?)

I should have all the rows put together and the borders on tomorrow. This is all so far.
Watson

I only do FMQ on my 9" throat machine. So I can't help you.

I did want to tell you Watson, that quilt is going to be gorgeous, however you quilt it.

For a first try, I would probably do a simple meander, perhaps with loops, so the rows blends into each other with high & low points. I don't know the size of your blocks, guessing 6 or 8", but you could include one block and sashings above & below in each pass.

Beautiful quilt! Good luck!

Pretty blocks.

If you want something more structured than a simple meander of loops and whirls - the one I like is more angular - you go up, across a ways, down partway, across again (making a sort of square on a line) etc. slowly working your way across the quilt. You leave some areas you don't go as far down, or "gaps" that you can then fill on the next row, like nesting.
Or go to Urban Elementz website and browse their patterns - there are many that you can re-create yourself, and they also have peel and stick ones that you can put on your quilt, stitch and then tear off. (Or you can make your own using a thin paper like Golden Threads) - lots of inspiration out there!
Enjoy!

I don't think "most" longarmers are computerized, though it is becoming more and more common. I do only hand guided work on my longarm, not using pantographs or computerization. Most instructors stress the importance of doodling your design on paper before starting on the quilt. That helps to get the design fixed in your mind, and you get to practice covering the whole page evenly. Mixing a few different designs (e.g. swirls and pebbles) gives the quilt more interest, and also helps fill in holes. The other trick is to do a lot of echoing.

I like this designer: www.meadowlyon.com. This design would look lovely with those pinwheels. Or this. You don't need a Iongarm to do pantos. Trace the pattern onto a roll of tracing paper or a water-soluble stabilizer, pin to the quilt, and baste it in place. I do e2e like that on my mid arm all the time. (Husband helped with only a couple of small quilts, tearing off tracing paper, before I told him about the water-soluble stuff. "Buy it!" he said. https://cdn.quiltingboard.com/images/smilies/wink.png ) Pinbasting first in rows, then with water-soluble thread so I can pull the pins and quilt without worrying about them. For me, starting at one center edge and going all the way across seems to work out best, then working from that center row/column out to the ends. Bind it and toss it in the washing machine.

The disadvantage of water-soluble products is that they're very responsive to humidity or lack thereof. Too humid and they stretch and stick to your skin when you sweat. Too dry and they get brittle. Wet-nosed dogs are hazardous as well. My granddog was staying with us, wandered into my studio, and stuck her nose onto my quilt! Fortunately I'd already done that corner.

I found thatthe easiest free motion pattern to start with was a loopy meander. It is so very forgiving. A lot of people suggest a regular meander/stipple, but it took me a while before I was ready to try that one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBXwwUUM428

I have learned to do loops, circles, meandering, waves and a couple other things, My mid arm only allows for 5 -6 inches u
but it gets the job done. Practice and get muscle memory.

I don’t think ( most) longarmers are computerized. I know at least a dozen in my area who do not have computer systems and 2 who do- but don’t use them often. Many of us with long arms do free motion, ruler work and some pantos.
I do hand guided work, not using pantos- some ruler work and sometimes I will draw a design on a block or two to get the feel of it. I love meandering along - doodle quilting, stars, flowers, leaves, loops & spirals.
if you are using a frame with machine on a carriage I would start at the top, one side, work across, waves, loops, circles, meander across, advance the quilt and go back the other way.

I have no idea of how to help you on the quilting design but just wanted to tell you how beautiful your quilt is. Good luck on your decision of how to quilt it.

I do variations on a meander, flowers, leaves, Loops, etc. I start in the center and work my way out. I have a Sweet Sixteen. Angela Walter and Christina Cameli have good books with designs. No marking necessary. I’ve marked a few with stencils which is very time consuming. I find I like the ones I do freehand better than the ones I mark.

When my machine was up and running I would do mostly freehand quilting or use a panto. I also have several wooden panto that I can use on my machine which are really great. Right now my machine is down. The plan is to get it up and going again soon. I miss having it available to work on. I have a Brothers 1500s on the Original Grace Frame.

It sounds like our quilting style is similar. I too usually ditch my blocks then either quilt in them or around them often using stencils. I use my DSM though. I have moved away from "edge to edge" style as I prefer my blocks to pop so to speak. I have been most successful in loopy meandering. Flowers and the like. Stippling is harder than it looks, though I have done that OK too. I have tried to quilt allover in more of a pantograph style, but have not been happy with the results. I mean it was ok, but...whatever you choose I am sure you will be fine. It's definitely a different look. Sounds like you have FMQ down so that is the hardest part anyway.

Christine Cameli and Angela Walters, along with Lori Kennedy have books out and youtube tutorials that I have used for edge to edge. I only have a DSM and practiced on dog quilts but they came out nice.

I think this is one of the best videos to teach how to do pantographs. I have a Longarm without a computer and have done hand-guided pantographs on a few quilts without any problem. Linda Taylor really explains everything thoroughly from start to finish. I had my sister watch it before she did a panto. It was her first time using a Longarm and she was off and running pretty much without any help from me once we got the quilt loaded! Once you get the hang of it, it’s super easy.
https://youtu.be/bk-nSLvlQoA

Watson--I long arm and not computerized so when I do an E2E (and not use a panto) I often do a combination of swirls and short lines of feathers or do a meander and then go back over to create a ribbon. Basically any meander can have some loops, flowers, leaves, swirls or feathers thrown in and work. Big thing is to start at edge as far down on side as your set-up allows, work up and back down, etc. Get your drawing paper out and try it--or even grab a newspaper or tow and draw "big" to get the feel. Post when you are done--pretty quilt!

I so agree with Dunster's comment about echoing ... it's the greatest trick of all! It will get you out of many tight situations ... LOL

I debated posting about this but decided tonight that even though it's a lot of work, it's possible you may still be interested :) I am assuming you are quilting on a sit down mid arm - I feel like I remember you saying you have a sit down machine like a Sweet Sixteen?

As someone else mentioned, Urban Elementz has a great selection of pantographs for sale either as digital or paper. You can purchase a digital copy (make sure it has a pdf) which you could then print on paper. Depending on your preferred mode of stenciling, you could then just print a paper copy and punch through with an unthreaded needle and use a pounce. However, what I like to do and is much more of a materials and time investment is this:

With a laminating machine, I laminate an empty sleeve to make a 9x12in clear plastic (3mm) see through sheet so that it's thinner than the regular template plastic we normally buy for quilting. A laminating machine is approximately $20 on Amazon and depending on what kind you get, may come with some laminating sheets already. Laminating plastic is also perfectly clear, which I love. I trace the pantograph onto the sheet that has been run through the laminator with marker, and then cut out the marker line with a swivel x-acto knife so that I make a true stencil where I can see through it and line up the pantograph easier. You have to cut only a few inches, then skip a gap before the next lines of cutting so that your stencil stays together. If you've seen other stencils, you'll see how it's not just one simple continuous line because then all the little bits in the middle would fall out.The good news is that it's pretty reusable, so once you've made a stencil for a pantograph, you'll have it forever! It does take awhile though and involves other materials for preparation. I then can painstakingly mark out the entire row of quilting with a Crayola Ultra Washable Marker and quilt the entire row before lining up the next one. I glue baste, so I can start at the top of the quilt and work into the center, then flip it around and continue working from the center down to the bottom. You could mark the whole quilt at once if you want to but I'm usually too interested in jumping right into the quilting!

Thanks, everyone. Lots of good ideas.

Didn't mean to offend anyone about longarmers being computerized. Around here that's what they all do. To get custom or free hand work is almost impossible.

Watson

That's a very good idea and a really thorough explanation! Handy too! Thank you for posting your idea/method.