The Ever Elusive scant 1/4 inch seam
 

I've been quilting a long time, but it still eludes me. I have a Janome 12000. The needle moves to a gazillion different positions. But not quite far enough to use the 1/4 inch foot. It makes the patch off just enough that it doesn't match up with what it needs to be sewed to. So saying it'll be my personal seam allowance won't cut it. Haha
If I sew a strip set together with 3 pieces and it doesn't measure 5.5, like the piece it will be sewed to, things get hinky right from the start.
So I've taken to using the zipper foot and running the cloth along the feed dogs as the guide. The size is right, but it doesn't feel like the best feeding going on. Because the 5.5 inch piece is changing a bit while being sewed. It doesn't measure quite 5.5 after being attached to the strip set.
Clear as mud, right?
Anyone have any suggestions? I'm just starting a new QOV and would like to get it right from the start. And it just doesn't feel like it's going well already

I don't have the same machine as you, but I can't ever seem to get accurate 1/4" seams. I'll stalk this thread and read the advice! :)

Best of luck to you!

Check out Bonnie Hunter's blog. The post is The Best Removable Seam Guide Ever. I think that was discussed on here about a week ago.

I think I would first check my cutting for accuracy using a non-acrylic ruler. Then I would check my pressing to make sure it's clean and crisp (maybe try open seams). After that I would possibly change my thread thickness.

A zipper foot only gives stability on one side, not the best way to maintain a precision edge even if you're sewing with the foot to the right (on the seam allowance). I use an open toe embroidery foot and shift the needle to get what I need with visibility, stability, and accuracy. Good luck to you.

I think there's something wrong with your machine. If the needle can move in a gazillion
positions it should move to the scant 1/4" position. Take your machine to your dealer and
ask them to have a look.

That is a possiblility now that you mention it because the needle never has been in the center. When I have the regular sewing foot on it is a bit to the left of the center. Light bulb: that would make it not go to the right far enough when I move it over.
I swear this machine has been a lemon from the start. It was the floor model and I should've listened to my instincts.
Thanks. I'll check that out.

I rechecked my cuts. That looks fine. I cover the fabric with the cutting line.

Thread could be an issue. Perhaps with a thinner thread it would help just enough.

I don't like using the zipper foot for the reason you said. But I tried every foot till I got one that was allowing for the seam I needed. Along with a magnetic guide right up against the feed dogs.
I'll look and see if I have the embroider foot you mentioned. Do you mean the round one?

Always get good advice on here.

After I could make a 1/4" seam, everyone said it really should be a scant 1/4". I give up, nothing seems to work for the time it takes to make a quilt.The only thing I notice is the squares are a bit smaller. I just sew on a slightly large border.

I agree with this.

How long have you had this machine? If it's still under warranty they should fix it at no cost.

I've had it 1.5 yrs.

here's a link to this blog post... interesting http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2012/...-saturday.html

I would take it in and explain what is happening. The dealer should be able to notice the problem. Good Luck.

I have a Janome 6600. When I am sewing things where it is not crucial for have a perfect 1/4 inch I use Connecting Threads and have the machine set on 3.5. When I am sewing something that is very important for the scant, I use Aurifil thread and set the stitch on 4.0. I will press open if there are many different seams.

Each machine will have a different setting but practiced many times to get mine the way it should be. I also slow down my stitching when I want to be precise and am very careful not to let the seam veer off at the very end.

the 1200 must have a pattern key on your screem for a 1/4 inch pattern that you just touch. This should give you a perfect 1/4 inch seam with your 1/4 inch foot. Check your manual. If it doesn't it's the machine. Bring it in for repairs.

Bonnie Hunter
 

Where can I obtain this Best Removable Seam Guide? I was not able to set up a new account on her site.

You don't need an account.
http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2012/...-saturday.html

Check your owner's manual. For my Viking, if I use a specific 'regular' foot and move the needle to 'this' position, it is a scant 1/4". If the owner's manual doesn't specify, check with your dealer for that combination of feet/setting. It should be easy on a machine of that sophistication level I would think.

Well...I learned a trick just this past week at a class. I have a Viking Ruby...I was told to guide along my A foot with my needle in the right position to get a 'scant' 1/4 inch. Super easy! You might see if you can do something similar with your machine.

I use an index card, along with the standard size foot, and move the needle until I can sew on one of the lines, with the edge of the foot along the line directly to the right.

If the needle is unable to fall directly on the line, then I move the needle just to the right, making a scant 1/4". This will allow for the thickness of the thread and fabric folding over. Scant is the goal.

Thanks for the info. It actually does have such a pattern key under quilting, then piecing. It says to use the 1/4 inch foot. It doesn't say to move the needle all the way to the right and so makes too wide a seam in my opinion. So I moved it as far right as it would go and presto, it's perfect. Interesting thing is if I just have it on regular straight stitching and kick it all the way to the right using the exact same foot, the seam allowance is too wide.
It also is preset on 1.8 stitch length. ??? I haven't been stitching that tight. That would be terrible to unsew.
Which, of course, I never have to do. haha

I have a Janome 7700. I don't use a 1/4 inch quilting foot. I use a regular open toe foot. I adjust my needle to the correct position for 1/4 inch from edge of foot and save the setting. From then on all i have to do is select the saved setting and it comes out perfect. I have never been a fan of the 1/4 inch special foot.

I have the Janome 8900. Using the 1/4 foot and the piecing setting, I get a perfect scant 1/4" seam. Like you, I don't care for the 1.8 stitch length, so I bump it up to 2.2, which is four clicks for me. I really don't understand why machine manufacturers use a 1.8 stitch length as the default for piecing. My Brother 6000i does the same.

My old Viking D1 allows me to program my own stitch so since I didn't feel the 1/4" foot gave me the scant 1/4" I wanted I made my old and use the foot with the flange on the right side. Seems to work fine for me. Love my old D1 so much for piecing but its screen is starting to fail so will have to take her in for a new one or if too expensive to replace then find another Viking that can use all the numerous feet I have for it. This Viking machine has been a trooper since I got it back in 2000. Have made all my quilts with it, clothing and even stitched over 8 layers of blue jean fabric. Not too many machines can do that. Don't think I'd want to do it too often though.

This is what works for me, too! Easy peasy! No variables of stretchy fabric, maybe not cut correctly, etc. An index card is terrific and it works!! :thumbup:

I did something similar to the Bonnie Hunter suggestion... I got a standard sewing measuring tape, and cut about 6 inches off, used double sticky tape and taped two layers of it together. Thankfully, I have a front loading bobbin on one machine and a side loader on the other, so I only remove it if I'm doing free motion. Measured 1/4" from my standard needle position and then used the double stick tape to stick it to my machine. Not only did it help with my scant 1/4" but it also helped with the issue of the fabric shifting at the end of the seams.

Also, it helped me a lot to think of the 1/4" not as the "sewing line," but as the "folding/pressing line." So the seam allowance is for where it's actually pressed, the seam itself would have to be just to the right of the folding/pressing line. I would get so frustrated because I'd measure my seam and it would be 1/4", but for some reason my blocks were wonky... It's because I wasn't getting the idea the the 1/4" is where you want to press. That's probably really basic for an experienced sewist, but it totally was a lightbulb moment for me. :)

One of my straight stitch only machines (2) has a compensating foot and I use that but it is a bit bigger than a 1/4". I can use it for either machine. My needles do not move. I am going to try Bonny Hunter's method I just saw. I have tries several methods but, find the fabric will work its way under the stop eventually. It is a problem when I have to open the plate to clean under the feed dogs, I need to split it as Bonny did. It is only necessary for patterns. I make alot of quilts where the scant seam isn't necessary.
I would think after all the quilts I have made I would have it dialed in, but I don't.

I have been using Bonnie's seam guide with my Janome 8900 and having much better success with my 1/4" seams, since I started using it. I set the seam with the guide and the 1/4" foot setting (stitch D95), but I don't use the foot. I just have an old Starbucks card blue taped to my machine for the edge. It works great.

At a meeting at my LQS they were showing new gadgets; The ideal seam guide...not as wallet friendly as Bonnie's but here's a link if you want to check it out.

https://www.ericas.com/quilting/tools/misctools.htm

Some of you will be horrified by my "fix" to get a perfect scant 1/4". I got out a small quilting ruler, put my 1/4" foot on, and moved the needle to exactly where it needs to be, then took a sharpie permanent marker and drew a line straight to the front edge of my machine AND the extension table. Now I get the same seam every time and I have quit watching the needle, which was probably part of making my original bad seams......

I use Bonnie Hunter's method and it works really great!!! Now I can get a scant 1/4" seam on all my machines.

I have a Janome and love it. I have had 3 of them. On my machine the setting is Mode 2 #39 and two clicks (positions) to the right for a scant 1/4" seam. Save it in the memory. I also use a 2.2 stitch setting. Mode 2 #39 is the Patchwork Piecing Stitch. With this setting I use a 1/4" foot specially made for a Janome.

I found that Piecing stitch just the other day. But I have to move the needle as far right as it will go to the 9. And with the 1/4 inch foot I'm getting a regular 1/4 inch seam allowance. If I use that clear open toe foot and run the cloth along the edge it's scant. But it doesn't seem to feed all that well. Is it possible something is wrong with the machine?
It's good to hear from someone that has a Janome. When you mentioned the Modes, etc. I know what you're talking about.
Also, how do you save in memory?
As you've probably figured out, I haven't had any instruction on the machine. I bought from a place that has no "after the sale customer service".

Using Acufeed, straight stitch plate and the 1/4 foot with the guide on the side, I found that DF95S (8.3) setting gives and accurate 1/4 seam. However, to get a scant 1/4 I move the needle to the right to the 9.0 setting.

On my Bernina 440 I finally discovered a scant 1/4" seam is two clicks right and line the fabric with the edge of the #1 foot (the basic zig zag foot). On my Featherweight, I have to use a seam guide. I got a large plexiglass seam guide from https://www.novamontgomery.com/shop/...ight-Guide.htm. There are other similar guides at different places. It works great. Since I alternate between the two machines, I use a seam from the Bernina as a placement guide for the Featherweight. The adjustable guide is the only way I get seams that are exactly the same size on both machines.

To test the performance of your machine, how about drawing the sewing line you NEED on a scrap piece and sewing the seam on the line, then press the seam. Measure at that point and see what's what.

This would work - I also use the "index" or "graph paper" method to "find" my 1/4 inch seam.