The feed dogs pull the fabric though a sewing machine. This makes for the problem of the top and bottom not matching at the end of a long seam unless you pin a lot or hold the bottom fabric so that it isn't pulled up too much. The walking foot should help, but why take a chance? I'd definitely leave at least 2 to 3 inches extra all the way around the quilt.

Like Jan in VA said.......Yes Yes Yes. I learned this the hard way early on. I would leave at least 3 inches extra if doing a large quilt. I'd rather have extra after I'm finished than have to piece it because it came out too short (piecing after the fact is a pain in the rump :( )

It depends on your confidence and the size of the quilt. Lap quilts I use may just 3" larger but trust me, there is NOTHING worse than being short. The reason why you make the backing larger is because of the sandwich process. You put your backing down, then you put you batting which is usually larger. It is just easy when you put your top down, you don't always see the edges of the backing. I had a customer that made her backing of her queen size quilt the exact same size as the top. YIKES ! It took me twice as long but I was able to get it centered.

In my opinion, yes. Layers can shift when hand quilting with or without a hoop. Use the extra backing to cover the exposed batting edges; saves the batting from getting tattered as you work. You need extra backing even if hand quilting on a frame (where everything is attached to rollers, so you do not need to re-hoop). It helps with attachment to the rollers and also if you need to apply side tension to the quilt as you work.

So far, no one has mentioned school glue. If the layers are going to shift, they will do that while you are gluing it. Once the glue is dry, there is no more shifting. I've done king size quilts, and once in a while I have to add a little piece of batting to a side, but once it's glued on there, it's solid.

I've used Elmer's school glue on small projects...table runners and wall hangings, but haven't tried it on a quilt yet. So no need for extra backing when using school glue on a quilt?

I have found that if I use the Hobbs fusible batting I don't get that shifting around. I have quilted a twin size on my machine with barely an inch to spare. Not to say it couldn't happen but it depends on the method you use to baste your quilts.

http://www.quiltingboard.com/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by maviskw http://www.quiltingboard.com/images/...post-right.png
So far, no one has mentioned school glue. If the layers are going to shift, they will do that while you are gluing it. Once the glue is dry, there is no more shifting. I've done king size quilts, and once in a while I have to add a little piece of batting to a side, but once it's glued on there, it's solid.


I've used Elmer's school glue on small projects...table runners and wall hangings, but haven't tried it on a quilt yet. So no need for extra backing when using school glue on a quilt?

I have found this to be true. Very little shifting. Does that mean I cut exactly to measure, NO, why would you take the chance? But I do not leave 3 inches per
side.

Yes, it's important to have a little extra. I've found that quilting on your own home sewing machine only requires about 2" extra on each side. I know of some long arm quilters who want anywhere from 4" to 8" for the back.

I leave 2-3" on all sides and I still trim 99% of that off when finished. ;-)