Fixing uneven cross grain
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It is my understanding that if you tear cotton fabric across the grain, that produces a straight grain line. I vaguely remember pulling on opposite corners to "straighten" fabric. Tonight I ironed this piece that I had torn off the larger yardage and this is as close as I can get without serious warping. It was for binding, so I cut it anyway, but does it matter?
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Quilting is so many small pieces and even binding ends up small, so I just don't worry about it not being straight. Even if I had to cut a wide border, I wouldn't worry, because the fabric can't warp funny after quilting. I quilt with patterns that have some quilting every 2 to 3 inches (usually closer) so that I don't put stress on the seams and pop them when I handle the quilt.
Now, if I were making something to wear, I would not have bought the fabric with it that far out. As soon as you wash it, you would have a mess. Edited to add: I don't pre-wash and I don't tear my fabric, just so you know. |
I usually don’t worry about straight of grain with binding. I just cut 2 and 1/4 inch strips of the binding across the fabric from the fold to selvages.
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With quilts, I don't worry about the straightness of the grain, too much. Especially if it's in the piecing or binding.
When I have an off-grain quilt backing, sometimes washing it actually relaxes the fabric and helps straighten it. Also, when I center it on my longarm, and roll it from the front roller to the back roller a couple times, it straightens out pretty good. |
Lining up the torn edges - not the selvage edges - will give you a straight crosswise grainline. You should continue to stretch, corner to corner, to get the selvages closer to lining up, to also give a straight lengthwise grain.
The method most quilters use to get a straight grainline - folding selvage to selvage and sliding until the fold hangs straight - doesn't really work. This is what causes so many frayed edges and little pieces of loose threads on the back of blocks/tops. Here is a video that shows how to stretch to correct the wonky selvage go to about 2:10. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF60qVY83j4 |
I just put the salvages together and then cut/square up the cut ends to make them even. I've never had an issue or problem with my quilts doing it like this.
I would do the crossgrain/straight grain if I was making clothing, but with quilting. I haven't seen where it makes any difference in the look of the quilt. |
Peaceandjoy...how do you know this method doesn't really work? I'd be interested in a link or whatever to read about the why's.
I square up every piece of fabric, regardless what it is for. (Obviously not scraps or strings...) Watson |
Grain line is one reason I pre wash. It removes sizing and relaxes the fabric. Yes it does cause frayed edges and the cut ends to not match up. But I’m pretty sure that after I’ve put all the work in to make a quilt, it won’t change much when washed.
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I never tear fabric across the grain. I was taught to go with the grain for clothing. I haven't made clothing in years.
For quilts I always cut selvage to selvedge. Don't worry about grain lines. |
I agree with petthefabric, I always prewash my fabric. It removes the sizing, germs and dust from the fabric. It also bleeds out so no surprises later. I serge the edges first so they don't fray. I am amazed how much the fabric shrinks and how uneven it is after it's washed and dried. I used to buy only quilt store expensive fabric. Not anymore, after washing, some of it looked far worse than the less expensive fabric from JoAnn's or Hobby Lobby.
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