FMQ Help
 

Hello all,

I used chalk to outline a picture onto black fabric and am trying to FMQ on the chalk lines.

Now, I'm doing ok with following the lines, but I am running into some problems, that remind me of why I can't stand doing FMQ.

1 - i am using a top stitch needle (brand new one), and 100% cotton thread (tried embroidery thread, but same thing happened) ... the thread keeps fraying and breaking

2 - I have a huskvarna topaz 30 with the floating FM or the spring action FM. I've tried both, and am having the same problem.

3 - also - when using the spring action, I can see the lines better and it makes it easier to follow ... but when I stop to turn my fabric around it "starts again in the same spot"

4 - I have slowed the speed down considerably (out of level 5, I'm sewing at a 2 - I tend to sew at 100!)

my tension is actually fine ...
I've cleaned my machine ... no dust bunnies

does anyone have any ideas / preferences / suggestions?

I really want to do a whole cloth quilt (lap size) and am starting out small (which is something I never do LOL), and this whole process reminds me why I don't like it (but really really want to conquer this!)

Thanks so much,

Marion

I also wear gloves, seems to help. Someone told me that the machine should go fast while your hands go slow. I do much better when I remember that

For thread fraying and breakage try a new needle and if that doesn't help try a larger size needle.
rob

You have a new topstitch needle in there already, great. Do you have the proper sized needle for your thread? I really like Dr. Bob from Superior Threads and this 2 part presentation on needles / enjoy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4U48srIlnWg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=magTIhmFVgw

Consider thread tension too. Dr. Bob on thread tension: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hSMw0jTeeQ

I know it goes against what the guy from Superior Threads teaches, but Quilting needles were actually made for FMQ curves to reduce the likelihood of the thread breaking as you go around the curve. Sure, they have a smaller eye, making them a touch more difficult to thread, but they're great for beginners to reduce problems with thread breakage. Top tension should be between 1-3, depending on your machine.
Here's a great troubleshooting sheet I find helpful:
http://www.generations-quilt-pattern...en-breaks.html
A bead of Sewer's Aid might also help.

The point of slowing down the machine speed is to allow you to move your hands at a slow speed. If you're moving your hands quickly, you need to speed the machine up. I had one teacher that taught me to do the opposite around curves of what most people do & it made all the difference. I actually get a smoother curve with less likelihood of thread breakage when I slightly speed up my machine. I couldn't get the right coordination with moving my hands slowly around the curve. It always came out choppy. So now I speed up both my hands & the machine and that works for me.

It does take some practice. You shouldn't need to ever turn your quilt to do FMQ. You work from the center out, typically one quadrant at a time. You do move the fabric, but just to shift more of the bulk to the left of the needle. When you stop, you should stop with the needle down (if you don't have a needle down function, use the fly wheel). I found that with practice, I eventually learned just the right amount of tension I needed to apply with my hands to move the fabric forward when the needle starts moving. But I have heard AQS award-winning quilters who've said they just allow the machine to take a single stitch in place before moving on & it didn't result in any docked points from the judges. Remember that when we make actual quilts, we're typically using the same color thread as the background, rather than something that is high contrast. If you're using a 50wt thread that matches the background, even travel stitches are virtually invisible until you're just a few inches from the surface of the quilt.

Hang in there & keep practicing. I know my first FMQ attempt had lots of thread breaks. Partly I had the tension too high (at 5), but mostly I just hadn't mastered the technique yet. The number I hear most commonly is 8 hours of practice to get the basic motion of a curvy meander. You can start with a larger meander (2-3") and work your way down to smaller spacing.

Happy quilting!

I know this sounds crazy but ... If you are working with your feed dogs down try putting them up and see if that helps. Some machines, mine until I had new feed dogs installed, do not like to stitch with them down and will break thread a lot because of it.

If you have such an adjustment, try adjusting your foot until it JUST touches the fabric. I have found that if the foot is too far off the fabric my thread will break.

Watson

thanks for all the comments / suggestions. I don't think I can adjust the top / bottom tension individually. My machine is all computerized. I have adjusted the tension somewhat, and it didn't make any difference in thread breakage BUT it did cause me to have those loops on the back of the quilt that I never had before LOL (go figure)

I tried using rayon thread with a ball point needle (I have been reading EVERYTHING I can find on line) and lo and behold my thread never broke once ... very bizarre

I will certainly try some of the other suggestions ... thanks so much

I quilt with feed dogs up and stitch length set to 0.