Has anyone used this method with large quilts on your regular sewing machine? You sandwich the quilt with only one third of the batting at a time. Did it work for you?

I haven't but I hope there are others out there who have so you and I can learn. It's so hard to quilt on a regular sewing machine with all of that bulk.

Seems like you would have all sorts of wrinkles and you would be able to tell where you stop and start.

But then again I FMQ King size quilts on my treadles...what does that tell you. :lol: :lol: :lol:

(couldnt find a crazy icon LOL)

Billy

Is there any difference between the Cotton Theory and Fun & Done methods?

I know I am going to sound DUMB...BUT...do you stitch in a ditch and crosshatch or can you do FM??? lol I honestly dont know

I can do all of the above on my treadle in the studio. I really love the meandering and doing the swirly borders and hearts and stuff. Although I am still trying to figure the feathers thing out......

My studio has a treadle mounted under my work surface that measures 140"x 36". I can change out wooden plates in the work surface so I can use different machines even the industrials like the Singer 29's and 31's. Or I can put a blank in the hole and have a large area to work.

Billy

You could do any of these but I was thinking FM. Billy, I don't think wrinkles would be a problem because you would pin or use spray adhesive. But it would have to be marked somehow so you would know where to stop. I was thinking about this, maybe a row of pins or a line made with a water removable marker. It would depend on the pattern used whether you could tell where you stop and start I guess.

I've never done either of these. I'm sure someone will know.

Yes, there is a difference. See these two videos for examples.

http://www.nancysnotions.com/categor...le+quilting.do

https://www.baysidequilting.com/stor...idCategory=284

I like the fun and done....the backing fabric is brought to the front and stitched down. You can quilt the blocks first which is easier to do that a big piece.

I was also thinking that when you quilt the quilt in thirds that the quilting would distort the batting. When it comes time to do another third, your batting would not mate up to the batting already quilted. Then you would have gaps and holes causing the wrinkles.


Billy

I have not used this method yet because I haven't done any large quilts recently, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it. I ran across a very good description of how to do it in one of Debra Wagner's books (don't remember which one and most of my books are packed in boxes at the moment), and Marti Michell has a book out on it, "Machine Quilting in Sections".

It seems to me that DB recommended creating the quilt sandwich first as usual, then folding back the top and backing fabrics from the side and pinning them out of the way when making the cuts. I think this was before the days of spray basting, though. Now I think I would measure how wide I wanted the center piece of batting and cut it first. For basting, I'd layer as usual but just use the middle piece of batting, fold back the fabric to expose the top half of the batting, put some newspaper or other protection underneath the batting, place a strip of paper 4-6 inches wide on top of the batting edge (so it stays free for connecting later), spray the batting, smooth the fabric back over the batting, repeat with the other half, then flip the whole sandwich over to do the other side. Easy peasy.

The big thing I remmber from Debra Wagner's book is that, when cutting the batting into thirds, she advises cutting a curvy line rather than a straight line. It would be like alternating scallops every 6-8 inches or so. Label the sections for right-side-up and left/right. This allows you later on to match up the pieces of batting exactly as they were before you cut, and eliminates any tendency for the quilt to always fold along that line.

I always thought I would hand sew the two pieces of batting together with a stitch like the one Sharon Schamber uses in her basting video on Youtube. Seems to me that was what DB recommended to keep the join totally invisible. After sewing the two pieces of batting together, I would spray baste that side together. (The only difference would be you would fold back from the side instead of from the top/bottom.)

It would be a good idea to mark where you want to stop quilting on the middle third. What I would do, after spray basting, is run a line of machine basting stitches down the quilt about 6 inches from each edge.

The big advantage of this method is that bulk under the arm of the machine is greatly reduced while you are machine quilting the middle section. Just be sure to pin the top and backing together and keep them rolled out of the way so you don't accidentally quilt over the sides while in the middle!

Interesting and well worth trying this method :D:D:D I really like the idea of reducing that extra bulk...if it works I might even be convinced to go larger than lap quilts :D:D:D

Thanks Prism99. Everything you said makes a lot of sense. I'm going to try this the next time.

I think it sounds like a great method. I do FM quilting and I bet you could do a more intricate pattern easier with that method. I can do a FM one on my yard sale machine but I think I could do better with this method. If I ever stop getting into swaps and start making tops I will give it a try. I think I did try it a long while ago and like the method.