four patch blocks
 

Easiest thing in the world to make, right: sew the strips together, subcut the strips and sew them together, and voila - a four patch unit. Well, not for me. No matter how carefully I cut, sew, and press, my 4-patch never seems to come out square or the right size. Sometimes they're as much as 1/8 inch too small. I'm making the 54-40 or fight block and I need them to be the right size. I've tried moving my needle and using thinner thread. So my question is: has anybody used this method:

http://www.fonsandporter.com/article...ch_quilt_units

Or does anyone have another "sure-fire" way to make the perfect 4 patch. I'm tired of "fudging" or "making do". I want my 4 patches to be right, darn it.
Thanks

are you able to determine why they are not coming out right? if they are always a bit too small maybe you should cut your strips 1/4" wider than needed, make your 4-patches- then line up your ruler & trim each side to make the perfect size. that seems like the easiest solution beyond figuring out what the problem is & fixing that. are you sewing with a 'scant' 1/4" seam? often the easiest way to fix is to cut larger & trim to size. :) good luck

Don't use full width of fabric for your strip sets - cut them in half. Cut the segments BEFORE you press them open as pressing can make them wonky, especially if you are using steam. And if all else fails, cut them over size and trim back to exact size.

it does depend on your accuracy on cuts but also on your 1/4 inch seams. test yourself on those on some scrap pieces. cut, draw seams if necessary and sew. measure. test, test,test and then try again.

Bonnie Hunter has some helpful advise...... http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2005/...rter-inch.html and
http://quiltville.blogspot.com/2012/...-saturday.html

And it always pays to double check your seam allowance. Here's a good method:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/tutoria...ce-t89997.html

Also, make sure that you are not pressing a tiny fold in the seam. I seem to have an issue with this!

I agree making them a tad bigger and cutting down is the answer, more time consuming but accurate. If they seem to shrink maybe your iron is to hot? If using steam, DON'T. The method in your link I've used, and it works if you can get that middle seam correct.

thanks for the suggestions. I've checked my seam allowance, I've tried both exact and scant 1/4 inch . I cut my strips in half prior to sewing. I make sure there is no fold at the seam, I don't use steam, iron on cotton setting. The one thing I didn't do, is cut my segments prior to pressing them open. Making them too big and cutting down to size seems to be my best option.

Be sure you have an accurate 1/4" seam and press the stripsets to the darker color. Then when you put the two strips together, the seams will lock together, ensuring that your seams will match. Be sure your cutting is accurate, too.

It must not be just you and me, everyone seems to know what to do..lol I watch the tutorials and they don't seem to have our problem. What gives??

It's also possible that your fabric is shrinking if you are using steam.

I usually do (if possible) make any block bigger and take the time to trim them down perfectly after they have been starched and pressed. I always assumed that using steam and not prewashing fabric, that they shrunk a tiny bit smaller. It does take time to trim but then you have perfectly size blocks. Good Luck !!

I think the 2 most important things when piecing, is the cutting and the 1/4 in. seam. Even a 1/8 in. goof, can be a big mistake at the end of a row. I am not the quilt police, but until we can get that right, we are going to have problems getting things to fit. Which I have to say, I sometimes do. But everytime this happens I hear my Dear Mother say " If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right!"

I agree, you think it would be easy, but not for me either. Mine was with a 5 in. solid block and a 4 patch 5 in. to match up to it. Some matched up, some didn't. Don't understand it either............

If you can't get a 4-patch to be exact, you will never be able to make 9-patchs, can't trim those, or anything with triangles. work on the accuracy of the 4-patch until you get it right. I test my 1/4 in seam allowance by cutting a piece of 1/4 grid graph paper so I have a good edge to put against my seam guide or the 1/4 in foot guide. lower the needle until it nears piercing the paper. I adjust my needle until I can get it to go through just to the right of the 1/4 in line. Then sew down the graph paper for three or four inches to check that you are staying online. Now sew a four path together and if it is accurate mark the line on the dial used to change to needle position. If that didn't work, move the needle a tiny bit more and test again.

Have you watched Jennie Doan's easy-peasy 4 patch You Tube video?? If not, give that a try..following her method, they come out AOK for me..

This method is new to me. It looks interesting. I'll have to give it a try.

Go to the tutorial section on this site. There is a tutorial for making four patches. I made one and put 4 four patches together, some thought they were 9 patches, there was 16 patches to make up a square. I don't second cut them, just leave as 4 patch. I was using 3-1/2" squares of scraps.

I find that starching my fabrics prior to cutting really helps with accuracy.

All great advise, Keep at it it will get better. I just hate it when this happens and if you are like me good enought is hard to swallow!

Are you using the same tool for measuring throughout the process? Something the measurments on the cutting mat are slightly off from the measurements on the ruler. If you use both, you might try using just one or the other.

For accurate 4 patches without triming
 

I just finished making 42--16 patches that did not need trimming. I find that the extra time I spend in making sure my cutting and stitching are accurate, saves time in the long run.
1. Starch fabric
2. Press on the length of grain (parallel with the salvage) tip from Ami Sims.
3. Use June Taylor shape cutter to cut strips. This assures accuracy.
4. Cut strips on the length of grain. Decreases distortion. (Marti Michell)
5. Layer two strips right sides together and cut into sq.
6. Pin sqs together. Will save time matching up when you sew.
7. Make sure that two squares stitched and pressed, give you the proper measurement.
8. Chain piece sqs. Finger press do not use iron. saves time less distortion.
9. Nest seams and stitch four patches. No need to pin, (practice will make perfect)
10. Finger press. Open seam and press so you see the little four patch on the back. (Kaye Wood)
11. Press with iron from back and then front.
12. You should have an accurate four patch that does not need to be trimmed.

Donna Slater of The Feathered Nest has a great tutorial on her facebook page or go to her blog quiltsforthenest.blogspot.com Her directions are based on the Billy Lauder method. She co-authored a book on Sudoko quilting with Billie and Billie gave her permission to publish the technique.

Great tips. I need all the help I can get. My points don't always match up. I saw a great technique from Kimberly Einmo on craftsy and did everything exactly as she did, but my points still got messed up a lot. I agree with the poster who wrote "good enough is hard to take"

Cut the pieces bigger than required, and then you can cut them down to whatever size you want for your quilt.

I've ALWAYS had problems matching seams till I found these fork pins -- Boy, what a difference!
http://www.joann.com/fork-pins-35-pkg/9620840.html

Your problem is clearly in your seam allowances. They're off. What I use is the small ruler below. It's called a "Perfect Piecing Seam Guide," and it measures exactly a scant quarter inch from the center of the needle. All I have to do is (carefully) insert my sewing machine needle into the tiny hole in the center of the ruler, make sure it's straight (I have used a 45 degree angle ruler to make sure, but then, I'm a bit on the Obsessive-Compulsive side) It's hard to get the ruler crooked. Put down your presser foot to hold the ruler in place, and do something to mark the edge. I like to use a self-cut strip of moleskin or heel savers. Then don't forget to check your seams. I use scraps to cut 2" strips, and I cut 3 strips. That's 6 inches, correct? But if you sew together all three strips, that's 2 seams at 1/2" total each, or in other words, you final block should measure exactly 5 inches. Your center strips should be exactly 1 1/2". So if it's not absolutely perfect, adjust your seam guide again. I love when it's perfect because everything matches up.

The scant 1/4" seam guide does NOT give you a scant 1/4" seam. It gives you a perfect 1/4" seam because it allows you to account for the bend in the fabric over the seam. I've discovered that with thick material that needs to bend, I have to make the seam allowance a tiny bit smaller because it uses more fabric to bend over the seam. Anyway, this ruler and checking the seams before I start each project, because the fabric itself can alter the seam allowance a tiny bit. If that's the case, I'll find out when I do my test.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/111397285/perfect-piecing-seam-guide-14-inch-ruler?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_listing _promoted&utm_campaign=supplies_low&gclid=CNPv5rf1 ursCFdJcfgodrEkAtQ

I hope this helps, and is clearer than mud!

I have gotten to where I would rather start bigger and cut back - even though it takes longer, it saves a lot of headaches and wasted (bad) outcomes. :-)

Marysewfun

One thing that I found out is that not all measurers are the same. It seems like one brand is one way and another is the other way. I have found that 4 patch or what ever size comes out different but have learned use one measuring strip for all.

right you are about the scant quarter inch sewing and cutting. I guess the whole idea is patience. I do not have a lot of that............so I just keep on trying.

I gave up trying to make hst the perfect size. I now make them a bit larger than required, then trim back to the right size. I regret that I'm unable to do it right the first time, but we do what we have to do.

Be sure your seam doesn't veer at the ends. I press my seams open and that has helped me get exact size.