stitching in the ditch usually hides a multitude of sins!

Do I need to quilt all ditches? Does that make sense? I use the same color when it turns and goes on the other side. Do I treat that as one or quilt in the stitch between. Now I am really confusing you.

I understand what you mean (i think) :lol:
If you look at the block image I think what you should do is do the light side of your block first, going in the ditch around the center square first starting in the upper left hand corner, then down the first light rectangle in its upper right corner and then on to the next light rectangle across the block and so on. Occasionally you may have to retrace your steps and you will quilt over something already done, but this will not be noticable if you are careful.
does that make sense? it will be helpful if you trace the path you are going to quilt on a piece of paper, such as graph paper, and either use colors or numbers with arrows to help you remember your path. then paste it up on the wall by your machine for reference. I put a small safety pin in the block center after it is finished.

I LOVE free motion quilting!! Leah Day has a good site, and her designs are fun. But I've found that designs quilted that closely end up being stiff as a board, and really are best for decorative wall hangings. You can still use those designs, only spaced farther apart for quilts.

FMQ just takes time and LOTS of practice!! It can be really relaxing once you get the hang of it. I took a class from Harriet Hargrave and learned quite a bit. But the bottom line is....practice, practice, practice. Get cheap muslin and put a piece of batting between two 12 inch squares of muslin and just start practicing. You can draw patterns on the muslin before putting it together with the batting. Start really simple - straight lines. Then add some curves. The work up to simple flowers....etc. Harriet told us to practice about 20 minutes a day....EVERY DAY!!! Happy quilting! :)

On the log cabin question -- how to quilt: I really like to do something to counter all those straight lines, so I've done things like a big spiral centered on each block, and radiating out, then with petals or sun flares, kind of like an Aztec looking sun. I'll have to see if I can find some photos to show what I mean. When I do that approach, I use a medium grey or beige thread that will not stand out too much on either side of the block.

You can also do a meandering pattern, and if you are not confident of your abilities and want to hide, use a thread that will blend with the darker side, and do those areas all at the same time, then switch thread to a lighter thread and do those portions of the block. Free motion work allows you to travel pretty easily from block to block.

I personally have no problem with doubling back on my stitching line, and I'm fine with crossing over -- once it's all done, it will not show up, and I don't do quilts for contests or shows, so I don't care about the rules.

thanks Lisa that does help. Glad I didn't completely confuse you. :D

When using a darker thread either for the back or the front sometimes the other thread shows. Do I need to adjust the tension? I have a Viking D1.

I took a class last year and am learning - I do enjoy it and bought a second, bigger, machine - but my sewing is still a lot shaky...

The new Pfaff I got has a sensormatic feature on it that it senses when you are moving the fabric and when your hands are still and stitches only as you are moving. It's really cool! Keep practicing....it'll come!!

Thank you, Craftybear, for bringing up this topic. I WANT to do FMQ, but stitches are so many different lengths I've just become very discouraged. Thanks, gals, for all the video references. I really like the one that says to practice every day for a few minutes before sewing the project you're presently working on. I am going to prepare some samples and follow that suggestion. Guess I'll keep a journal of my triumphs and pitfalls and see where it leads me----how long to improve.

I always think it takes as long to FMQ (with regular practice) as it took to learn to drive well, or even ride a two wheeler, for that matter). Once you have the tools...machine, proper sandwiched fabric, thread, needle in machine, gloves or rubber "fingers", super slider, and proper surface for machine (and you!), then it is like you have a learner's permit. you need to practice until you get the fine motor/eye hand coordination right. Your speed on the pedal, how you see what is coming ahead in your quilting design and the movement of your hands all have to coordinate with one another. It's not easy at first but when you learn, it is something you never forget and it is fun! :-)

I'm learning! Currently I've got the book Quilting Dot to Dot, by Cheryl Barnes. I don't generally buy books, I get them from the library, because I have this thing about spending on something that I end up not using, or using seldom!!!! Anyway, this just might be a book that I could buy. I've used it only once so far, but I love it!! FMQ scares the crap out of me - I get really nervous about it - but I'm determined to master at least some of it!!!

Istarted learning and just need practice,practice and more practice. I don't know if I'm getting better or not. I really should spend one day doing nothing but FMQ maybe after months of practice I will see a difference. I am determined to get really good at it.

I'd love to see your quilting pics. I have some loose log cabin blocks I was given so I am going to practice on those to decide which I like best.

I've just started FMQ. I'm making a T-shirt quilt for my son. I've found that it goes so much faster than when I'm usning the walking foot. It's a lot of fun. So far, I've just done a meandering stitch. I hope my son likes it. He is 28 now, some of these shirts are from kindergarden and 2nd grade.

Thank you so much for the link. I am looking forward to tracing some and using on my next quilt!!

Hi i'm roz. I use a single hole plate. Set machine for medium speed and move hands a liitle slower. This is what I read and tried and it works really well. Have fun!

Oh my - so many great ideas. I am free motioning regular meandering but everyone here has given me many new ways. It must be that anything goes as long as the lines flow and the distance between is consistent throughout the block. I think I will, however, take the stitch regulator off and try using just the darning foot. Maybe I will have better control.

I am sooooooooo envious of free motion quilters!!!! I have a lovely new maching (well 2 yrs old) has all the potential, got the attachment, got the "Machine Quilting" Made easy by Maurine Noble!! STILL can't get the hang of it... guess all I need to get now is the t-shirt!!! ;-0

I guess if it is not coming easily to go FMQ, then you should see if you have done everything on the FM check list:
1. properly sandwiched practice piece
2. machine set up with proper needle, proper thread and foot, with feed dogs dropped. Good lighting.
3. machine bed level with table or surface you are working on to prevent "drag" on quilt.
4. gloves or rubber fingers
5. super slider (or similar cover) for machine bed to decrease friction
6. after all that...i ithink it is practice, practice, practice.

Personally I find it most helpful to mark my design with a very visible line (Such as blue water soluble marker or chalk) to follow. Once you get that down, then you can design without any markings, particularly with background fillers. This is a personal thing...each person is different.
I recommend if you are having problems to make sure all your obstacles are out of the way.

It can help to practice tracing designs on paper or using a dry erase board until the "pattern" you are doing enters the "memory" of your hands. it does happen. That's why it is easiest to start with things that are familiar to your hands, such as your name, stars, etc.
To stipple, take paper and try to make the stippling shape (like a puzzle piece) with a pencil or pen without lifting it off the paper. Once you can do that, you can do it on fabric.

Hi,

I bought the Bernina 820 almost one year ago and have had all kinds of trouble with the BSR skipping stitches. Took it back and had a heavier duty spring placed in the BSR. This issue is also addressed on their website and there is a site your repair person can go to about this issue and how to adjust your machine.

This BSR on the 820 does not like when you use 505 for example to fuse your sandwich together. It doesn't like Heat n Bond lite when you fuse an applique and want to stitch inside the applique. I am now trying to find a product called Fuse and Fix to see if this will correct the problem.

I have taken several classes on free motion quilting and really enjoy it if the machine/BSR works properly. Don't seem to have a problem if I thread baste my quilt instead of spray baste.

Free motion quilting just takes lots and lots of practice. Don't give up-keep practicing.
Marlene
[email protected]
PS: Use BSR 1 with the foot control, use 1/2 speed, single stitch plate. Hope this info. is helpful.

I've been doing free motion quilting since 1992.
Sharon W. in Texas

You have to make sure when you're basting your quilt that you get the backing taut so you don't get puckers when you're quilting. I use the size #1 curved quilter's safety pins.
Sharon W. in Texas

Kimberlie,
A big meander type of quilting is good for a beginner.

possibly. I use very fine threads for machine quilting...such as Mettler 60/2 ply embroidery cotton thread, Masterpiece thread or Bottom Line thread. That way if the thread does show a bit, it is not very noticable b/c it is fine thread. Never use poor quality thread for machine quilting!
This was a trick I learned from Deb Wagner...that she liked the quilting to complement the piecing and not stand out on its own. There are others who would disagree with that and would like to have the quilting stand out and they use variegated thread and really make it pop. But if you are starting out and not so confident in your ability, i like the blending in concept. ;)

Try to select a thread which blends with the majority of your fabrics in your blocks. It may be a grayish or taupe color.
When you select backing fabric, try to select a busy backing (until you are confident and want to show off!) that won't show your stitching that much and then try to have a color which blends with the majority of the top.
(so in other words, if you have a rather dark top, don't use a light backing) That way, if you have some show through of the bobbin, you won't see it as much. Bobbin thread should match the backing as best as possible.
When selecting thread, try to have your top with you and your backing with you and pull one strand out to lay it on the fabric, as the spool laying on the fabric will look very different than one thread.
when all else fails, you can use clear thread. However, it is not always fun to work with and i don't recommend it for beginners.
JMHO, as always....i'm sure there are others who approach it differently and you will get lots of suggestions from them on this digest...

One other thing...which i feel is very important...make sure your machine bed is level with the table. So if you have a sewing cabinet, use it. If not, please rig something up so that your quilt is not bumping up to get on the bed of the machine. This puts a lot of "drag" on the quilt and it makes it much more difficult. :thumbdown: You really want to have your quilt top supported as you are quilting. (that means no 4 legged helpers sitting on them either!)

So put on some relaxing music, and give it a whirl. I hope this helps!
Good luck!

Karen: Thanks for the link! I just started with free motion quilting around Christmas-it is really lots of fun.

I also use the single hole needle plate and a spring darning
foot and that helps a lot. I quilt with a Viking Sapphire 875,
I have also used older Berninas and even a treadle machine.
Sharon W.

Music really helps. Then just start quilting, before you know it you'll relax. It also helps to use quilter's gloves. But, the more you do it the more relaxed you will become. Remember when basting with pins to pin close enough together, 3". I always do my straight lines first, this stabelizes the quilt, then do your fmq.

I went to a shop today that has the Handiquilter longarm. The lady let me try it for my first time. She stood close. I had been doing free motion on my home machine. It was a fabulous experience, but alas, I will be using my own machine to do the free-hand stipling.

I have tried it on a small quilt using a Brother machine. I didn't feel in control...yikes!! I just cleaned up my new girl, a Singer 301 from 1951 and she purrs like a kitten. As soon as I get her cabinet back into a beautiful state, I'm ready to really learn to FMQ.

I took a shor class for Free Motion and let me tell you, it takes a lot of practice to say the least. It look easy at first but it isn't. Like I said it takes a lot of practice to get the feel of moving the fabric and the speed at which to go. The instructor said the faster you go on the machine the easier it is which is true but practice, practice, practice!!! Oh yea.....lots of thread to practice so if you have thread you don't like I would use that up.

I always say you didn't learn cursive in one day, why do you expect to learn to write with your machine in one day.

Thanks for the link ;-)

I am learning. I have been trying FMQ on the Doll Quilt Swaps, and have had some success, but I have a very long way to go. I bought the book, One Line At a Time, while on a shop hop. The gal at the shop made it look easy while she was talking about it. I am still intimidated, so haven't had the courage to try it yet. I am bookmarking this thread and will study all of the responses and the links. I have learned so many other things by doing this, who knows, I may get the courgage to branch out a little more. Thanks for all of the links.

Go to YouTube and google it. There are soooo many video's on how to do it and domestic and longarm machines! I loved it on my Bernina and now my A1

I love FMQ. I guess it's the feedom of movement I like. I don't have any books tho. I was making Linus quilts with my ASG at the time so I practiced on them. The Linus police were very kind.

I used to do SITD but found it very boring and quit tedious having to follow all those ditches even with my special foot.

i agree with looking at as many books, videos, youtube and instructors as you can - all contribute wonderful tips and techniques. But once you have the basics down, you have to spread your wings and fly! Practice as much as you can...a little every time you are at your machine.
I personally find it easier to trace a continuous line template with a blue water soluble marker, and then try to follow that with my machine.
Once I have the "memory" of the design into my brain, I then find it easier to do it on my own with no lines.
Anyone else feel that way or do others have a different approach?

Yes, that is how I feel, too. Tracing it helps and when you do the same pattern several times, it gets easier.

Did I say I expected to FMQ in one day!? I said it takes a lot of practice.