Frustrated!
 

I'm not having any luck quilting on my home machine. :( This is my third quilt, and the trouble is always the same with the ones that are bigger than a baby size. Even while using a walking-foot the fabric pushes so that I get creases sewn in! So I would like to try hand-quilting, I really enjoy busy work with my hands, but don't really know how to get started. I have a hoop and did some stitches tonight. But the rocking back and forth to make stitches I'm finding not easy to do. The needle doesn't want to come up through the fabric close enough to where it went in to make a small enough stitch. I hope that makes sense. Maybe I need a different size needle, I couldn't really tell exactly what I used because the package was labeled in a general sort of way, but didn't say which needle was which. Any advice? There's a local quilting guild that I'm thinking of joining, do you think that would be a help for a beginner? Thanks, ladies!

If you are using a hoop and quilting, you do not keep it tight like when doing embroidery, there needs to be a lot of give. There are plenty of examples on YouTube. I took a class and the instructor said you should keep a piece handy to sew a few minutes to get your rhythm before you start on the actual quilt.

There is a book called, "The Perfect Stitch, the Secrets to Fine Hand Quilting" by Dierdra McElroy that I found very helpful.

Checking out your local quilting guild is a terrific idea! There are most likely a wide variety of skills within the guild, and usually they're delighted to hook ... er, help someone new ... :)

I think the hand quilting stitch is the hardest thing in the world to describe adequately. The book that I found most useful initially was 'That Perfect Stitch' by Roxanne McElroy, who describes how she quilted perfect 12 stitches per inch on her first attempt, and all the other women had to get under the quilt to see that she was going all the way through, because they couldn't believe their eyes. :) But most people aren't such prodigies. She has the best pictures and descriptions, and is also extremely encouraging and inspiring. You can't believe the photos of these quilts. She is deceased now, but her daughter carries on.

I had to give up on the traditional quilting stitch after a couple of months, because there was too much wrist movement, tension and finger bending, and it aggravated my arthritis. Thanks to the quilting board, I saw someone mention another book, 'Perfect Hand Quilting without Pain', by Liuxin Newman. She is a woman who couldn't get a satisfactory stitch in spite of constant practice, and also she had terrible problems with the finger callous from pricking the underneath finger, so she developed a different kind of thimble and a different kind of stitch, which she calls the folding technique. She has a website (Thimblelady) where you can purchase her thimble -- with deeper dimples and fits down on the finger, rather than on the top -- for about $15 (when I bought it three years ago). It took me a long time to master this technique (it involves keeping a very loose quilt in the hoop, and folding the fabric around the needle rather than rocking the needle through the fabric), but I kept at it, and I can now quilt about 10-12 stitches per inch with no strain at all on my fingers or wrist!! I can't count the number of times I said, 'This is impossible!', but every time, I had only to glance at the pages of her book, each one having a close-up photograph of her amazing quilting stitches, to realize that it was possible. But it takes practice, practice, practice (for most people). The only way to get good stitches is to make lots of them. So it would be better to start on a quilt you aren't planning to give away.

A good needle makes an enormous difference. I couldn't believe how much easier it was to quilt after I ordered some of Roxanne's needles (size 10 betweens), through the Colonial Needle Co. The big problem for me was getting my spaces to be as small as my stitches. Don't worry about how small your stitches are at first. The important thing is to do a lot of stitching. As you get more used to the dynamics, your stitches will get smaller and more even. The principle of even stitches is, the needle has to go through perpendicular to the fabric. If your needle goes through the fabric at different angles, your bottom stitches will be smaller than your top stitches.

Having said all that, I'm sure there are many people here who could also encourage and help you with your machine quilting, if you want to do both. Good luck!

I haven't been part of a quilting guild, but I'm sure it would be very encouraging and instructive.

I understand the allure of hand quilting, but let me ask a question. You spoke of the creases (or puckers) when you machine quilt. How are you basting your quilt? Many people have switched to glue basting due to the ease and are finding that it helps with the puckers. By the way, glue basting isn't for hand quilting, just for machine quilting.

Tate

I have done two classes with eminent uk hand quilters, good friends as well. They both use a hoop one keeps fabric taute while the other is slack.i believe they alter each other's tension when together,hehehe.
Personally I prefer to hold in my hand to quilt. From both classes the message was keep stitches even in size. Smaller stitches come with time.
The rocking takes time as does the organising the size of the quilt.

Very informative posts, I will check out the books. I struggled too with hand quilting, especially trying to pick up the backing and sewing straight stitches.

Oh I could have written your post! I'm working on something at present which I guess could be called a utility quilt. Occasionally I get into something like a groove but often I find it difficult also. I think my fingers are teaching me what they can stand up to!

I hand quilted my second quilt. The middle section of it was done using online tutorials and has very big, very wobbly stitches! I was getting a lot of pain from it and I also found thimblelady! I bought a starter set which included her book, a set of plastic thimbles, a pack of needles, two marking pens, and a practice square (quite large, with a design drawn on for you). I worked my way through the book and completed the practice square. My stitches aren't perfect, but there was a massive improvement as soon as I got the hang of it! It was pretty expensive to get the kit, but i'm so glad I did! Hers is the first thimble I can actually use, because of the way it's designed and it has lovely deep holes for the needle to rest (and stay!) in! I have since upgraded to one of her metal thimbles because I love it so much!

I second everything joe'smom has to say. I'm totally convinced that the 'Thimblelady' method is the way to go. I'm on my 3rd thimble from there (first plastic; next 2 stainless steel). I don't, however, like her needles - too thin and bendy for me. I prefer Roxanne needles as well. I use anywhere from size 10 to 12, usually 11. The larger the number, the smaller the needle. Start with a larger needle and then work your way to smaller ones if you like. I highly recommend getting the Roxanne threaders as well since the eyes on those needles are really, really tiny!

Getting your stitches even and consistent is the first goal you want to achieve. Size comes with time and practice. And frankly, if you're not entering shows, does the number of stitches/inch really matter? I find that having the quilt very loose in the hoop (or using no hoop) allows me to get more consistent, smaller stitches. I tend to 'rock' the fabric vs 'rocking' my hand. I find it far easier to manage.

Joining a guild might just be the ticket for you. Or, if you have a LQS, I'm sure they have hand-quilting classes as well. And I agree with the poster who mentioned having a practice or scrap piece to get your rhythm going for a few minutes before working on your real quilt, at least until you get more proficient.

Good luck and enjoy.

Well, Kelley, It sounds like you are getting some good advice. I do both machine quilting and hand quilting but hand quilting takes me a long time to get a quilt done. For hand quilting I use a quilting frame but I have HQ on a hoop and without anything. I think everyone has their own method that works for them.

I thought I'd mention a thought about the creases you get when machine quilting. I had that problem also. I tried everything anyone would suggest but never had any luck machine quilting without those awful tucks. My fancy $$$$ Viking would always be a problem no matter how I sandwiched the layers or which $$$$ walking foot I used. Then, I bought a vintage Singer 15-91. People over on the vintage site talked about how nicely the 15-91 quilts. I found a machine at an auction for $10, cleaned it up, had to replace the bobbin case and cord (cost around $12) and the machine was set to go. I couldn't believe how nicely the vintage machine quilted. .... not a single tuck. Now it's the only machine I use for FMQ and I've quilted some pretty large quilts on it. The latest one was queen sized.... not a single tuck. So, maybe the problems you're having are from the machine you are using and not your method.

I don't see where you are located but I'm sure there are hand quilters that would be willing to give you some lessons if you want to go that route. But don't abandon your search for a machine that will do a good job for you as well.

I found the class I took at my LQS really helped me with selection of needles and thimble. Yes, Practice makes perfect just like FMQ.

I just finished my first glue basted quilt and I am completely sold on the method. Not one crease on the back!

Cheers, K

Batting is another consideration. I find Warm and Natural batting extremely difficult to get tiny stitches and is not much fun to needle. The batting fights the needle. I have had much better luck with other battings. You may wish to experiment with different battings to find one you really like for hand quilting.

Admire you wanting to tackle hand quilting!

Relative to your walking foot problem, the only thing I can suggest is to maybe dial back the pressure on your presser foot. If it's too much, it could be causing the puckers even with the walking foot.

When you machine quilted, did you starch the top and backing before layering? Several layers of spray starch on the top and heavy starching of the backing, combined with either spray basting or glue basting, tends to eliminate the problem of sewing in tucks and puckers while quilting.

I have hand quilted several quilts and I don't think I will ever go back. It take soooo much time and it hurts my fingers, let alone if someone were to look at my stitches I am sure they were horrible. I know the pleating in the back can be very very frustrating. I have picked some out of my own.. I find I have the best luck if I spray baste and pin the layers together. Sometimes I think I must flip and flop my quilts around a lot more than others, so I take extra precautions. Honestly, I don't use my walking foot most of the times. I have used it, but I am just used to not using it. Good Luck

Spray basting (not glue basting)works well for me for hand quilting. That may help.

I can get fairly even stitches - but I don't think I will EVER get tiny stitches. And I have decided that I am not going to worry about it!!!

I find that I can go "better" sewing just one stitch at a time - and using a shorter length of thread!

Baste or lightly glue your layers together and try quilting without a hoop. I had much better luck with being able to manipulate the fabric while quilting than I did with the hoop. Try a large (flour sack size) swatch and see if that works for you.

I find it easiest to hand quilt on a simple floor frame my husband made for me. I posted pictures of it earlier. http://www.quiltingboard.com/main-f1...me-t81725.html It is easy to adjust the tension on the fabric by simply loosening a clamp and sliding the board just a tad tighter or looser. Tension makes all the difference in the world for ease of quilting. When I first learned to hand quilt my grandmother said, "Just make sure the stitches are even and small enough that you can't catch your toes in them." Great advice! :-)

Where I live in the Tri-Cities, WA area, there's a regular quilt guild and a quilting guild for those who want to quilt by short arm, long arm, or hand quilt. Some of the members belong to both guilds.

Some good hints here! Use Roxanne needles, about size 10. Practice for a few minutes every time before you start quilting on your quilt. Keep a looser tension in your hoop;, don't try to bounce a quarter on it. I use a thimble made by Tommie Lane which I love. Understand that when most of us start quilting by hand, our stitches are larger. The size of your stitch doesn't matter so much as the consistency of the stitches. Ami Sims did a book on hand quilting some years ago and it is still a good resource. Good luck. Hang in there.

My sentiments exactly. I struggled with the rocking motion, and finally decided to try one stich at a time. Works for me! My stiches are much more consistent. I use an Ultra Thimble on my under finger.

Kellyer21..I too had trouble with the back getting pushed into creases..After much sewing and taking out..I had always used safety pins to hold the pieces together..I found out It just does not work well with the big quilts if u have a quilt pattern that moves all over..It is fine if u have a pattern that travels in one direction most of the time..Also I do a square at a time sort of quilting if I have a pattern that moves all over..I do free motion quilting..U can use a darning foot for that or a free motion foot..I have a small space to quilt in..So I bunch my quilt around the machine..So there is no pull on it from the weight..Also u can make it easier by quilting half the quilt or a fourth..Then after quilting sew them together ..Then put the borders on..also u can keep the quilt top whole..and just put the batting into half the quilt..This makes holding the backing tighter ..Easier..also depending on what u have u can use a big hoop and quilt sections that way on the machine..I have tried many ways..But the main thing is they have to be basted .Sewed or glued..The reason being..There is too much movement of the quilt when using a home machine ..also the batting makes a difference too..Some slide .More than others..It is just a try and learn .then pick what works for u..I have picked out yards of quilting so I understand where u are coming from..But don't give up on the machine quilting..There are all kinds of videos out there to watch also.They are always good for hints..

also forgot Kellyer..when hand stitching..U can use it as a decorate stitch..This way u can make bigger stitches..Say u have a 4x4 square..U can picked a colored thread if u like..and make a x in the square..with say 1/4 th stitches..a diamond or anything..after u have done this for a quilt..U will be more at ease with a needle..then u can start with the smaller stitches on the next quilt if u like..and it won't be so hard for u to scale down the size after getting the feel of your rhythm from the other quilt..B th way I have seen some rally great quilts with the bigger stitches ..unless u plan to show your quilts it is not a have to be the size o a stitch..It all take practice.

Patience, practice and time!! Here is my first hand quilting and my current. I do hoopless hand quilting.
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Go to YouTube. Many videos on handquilting. Make sure you have thimbles that feel good on your fingers. I have approximately 20+ thimbles. Just bought couple more. I like the adjustable.

Love your hand quilting! I counted 11-12 stitches per inch. WOW!!

When hand quilting in a hoop, keep the quilt loose, not taut like you would with embroidery. Also, when I first started hand quilting, (totally self taught through books and videos) I stitched one stitch at a time, always checking to see that my stitches weren't crooked on the back. It took me a while to learn how to quilt using the rocking motion; however, when I took a class held by my quilt guild, the instructor said the most important thing was not how tiny you make the stitches, but making them the same size, regardless of the stitch length.

Maybe this is a "dumb" question, but why do you have to do the "rocking" stitch? Isn't it easier to go "up and down" (is this one stitch at a time???)? Is there a specific reason for the rocking stitch? I haven't hand quilted anything (yet) and just want to know. Thanks for starting this thread.

I learned counted cross stitch prior to learning quilting and counted cross stitch uses a stab stitch making one stitch at a time. It may be slower but it is what I have always done when hand quilting. I too cannot get even stitches when trying to do a running stitch.

I think the reason for the rocking stitch is greater consistency and greater speed. Personally, I can't get any consistency when stab stitching, and it's so slow. I'm a slow worker anyway, and even with the traditional approach it takes a very long time. I'd never get anywhere stab stitching. But whatever works for you!