Quiltingboard Forums - Getting seams to match up. Will I ever master it?

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Quote:

Originally Posted by debbieumphress

I also have a 1/4" foot and marked a 1/4 using blue paint ers tape and putting a second layer on the tape gives it a border to follow. And "press" don't iron. I tend to stretch my seams when I ironed incorectly. I am talking about what happens to me, not you. Just a thought. lol

hijacking, debbie, your kittie is dancing to Wham as I read, its very funny...

Good grief, Rachel :) You're making some beautiful blocks there...and you're worried about your seams being a smidge off??? (I know, I know ~~ YOU know and that's what bothers you.............I'm the same way :))

I haven't read all the answers, so I am sorry if I am repeating, but I was having the same problem when I first started quilting. I discover what my problem was. I was making sure that the seams were pressed in opposite directions, but when I butt them against each other, I was only doing it on the edge, instead of all the way down. Your seam is 1/4 inch, so you need to make sure the seams are butted all the way down. It helps to pin on both sides of the corners.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pam

It is frustrating to get the angles to line up, that is for sure. Try the glue basting, if that does not work, this might, it is time consuming and I learned this from a pro that enters quilt shows to win. Let me know if it works for you. Hand baste, eww, I know, right? Just one or 2 stitches at each intersection, leave the thread hanging and just go down the block. It takes a little longer than pinning but before you sew you KNOW it is lined up, and the stitches are easy to take out. I have not done this yet.

Taylor tacks. That's perfect. I've been letting a tumbling blocks pattern age forever because I couldn't get them to line up right, i think this will work. thanks Pam!!!

Don't stress over it. This is supposed to be fun and relaxing, not stressful.

Quote:

Originally Posted by quiltilicious

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quiltgranny

Also, what type of thread you use for piecing can make a big difference on the outcome, too. Many quilters have switched to using 50 weight 2 ply for piecing instead of the traditional 3 ply. It makes a HUGE difference!! My piecing has improved tremendously just by switching to a 2 ply, like Aurafil or any other 2 ply. They are just as strong as the 2 ply, but thinner so they take up less room in the seam.

Karla, you just gave me an epiphany! I haven't been paying much attention to thread weights when I piece. It never occurred to me that it could significantly affect the piece size.

SUPER!! That's one of the things I love about this board; we're all here to help each other. :thumbup: Hope you find it as helpful as many others have. Keep us posted. :D

and now, a serious reply....everyone has made excellent suggestions...All of which I need to take into consideration considering what the blocks that I slaved over all day today look like.... :hunf:

I am still new to all this, but one thing I did learn early on, is to not pin at the direct seam line. I line them up and check and recheck, then pin on either side of the seam, but still in that quarter inch.

What sort of glue do you use for basting, just the school type or something special?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Katia

What sort of glue do you use for basting, just the school type or something special?

I use Elmers washable school glue and touch it with an iron to dry it. If it doesn't match up on the first try, it separates easily with a gentle tug to reposition and reglue.

I line up the points with a straight pin stuck in the points as mentioned in other replies, then glue and iron. If the glue is dry, I haven't noticed any gunking of the needle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pamela Artman

Here's a tip I use when piecing angled pieces. Put a pin through the seam 1/4" in from the edge. Then poke the pin through the seam 1/4" from the edge of the other unit. Hold the pin straight up and down between two of your fingers (don't come back up through the fabric with your pin, just hold it in place) and take another pin and pin on each side of your first pin, then sew your seam, making sure to hit the "spot" thats marked with the first pin, removing the pins as you come to them. Kinda hard to explain! When you put your pin through the two seams, you'll see why it's so hard to sew them correctly because the seams don't line up.

This is what I do. It really saved my bacon while working on a Buggy Barn sailboat quilt for my son. Lots of 1/4 square triangles in the sashing of each block that had to meet the points of the triangles around the next block! If I hadn't stuck a pin through where the point should match, it would have been a mess. But don't be so hard on your self. You have done a fabulous job! I love that quilt. Very pleasing color choices, too. And once it is quilted and washed, the distance will close and you really won't notice it.