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nancyw 03-02-2013 05:19 AM

I would never make HST the way Jenny does. Sure you get four at a time with no waste, but they are all bias edges. There are a lot better ways to make HST with straight edges.

Geri B 03-02-2013 05:31 AM


Originally Posted by nancyw (Post 5898194)
I would never make HST the way Jenny does. Sure you get four at a time with no waste, but they are all bias edges. There are a lot better ways to make HST with straight edges.

I agree about all those bias edges. I prefer other methods that give straight edges..... But remember she is pushing precuts so must find ways of using them in the most effective ways.

Rose Marie 03-02-2013 07:20 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Eleanor Burns shows how to make 8 at a time with squares and sewing an x. No bias edges.
Use 6 in sqs for 2 1/2 and just add 2 in for each size larger. 3 1/2 use 8 in squares.

quiltmom04 03-02-2013 07:30 AM

I generally oversize and then trim my HST to size. If you like that method of making them, if it were me, I'd make the square bigger, say about and inch bigger , and them trim the squares to size.

G'ma Kay 03-02-2013 08:27 AM


Originally Posted by maverick (Post 5894536)
I didn't know her method so had to watch youtube ... very interesting way to make hst. Did you 'iron'? or did you 'press'? If you ironed then you may have stretched the fabric.

I use the grid method for my hst.
I.E. http://www.patchwork-and-quilting.co...triangles.html


I hope it all works out.


Hey Maverick, where do you get the grid paper for this process?

onaemtnest 03-02-2013 10:41 AM




Originally Posted by Donnamarie (Post 5894860)
In the future if you plan on making any half square triangles, quarter squares, and geese it is worth purchasing this CD called 'Triangulations 3.0' by Brenda Henning (Bear Paw Productions). Each unit comes is several sizes. You can print out the image and sew and cut on the lines. They come out perfectly. The CD is <$30 but is totally worth the money. It is like the 'trianglations on a roll' but you get so many sizes on the CD. I will probably use this forever or until something better comes along the way. Good luck!


I absolutely, positively, emphatically agree with Donnamarie about the Triangulations 3.0 CD. I'm a fussy mussy about my points matching and before Triangulations I avoided patterns that I loved that used HST and flying geese! Worth every penny of the cost of the CD. HST sizes on the CD from 1/2" ~ 7.5" in 1/16" increments...priceless! Plus it has the QST and flying geese templates...very easy to use.

If you are doing the larger blocked version of Jenny's quilt, I'm not sure I remember the size of the blocks but I don't think I'd use Triangulations for huge blocks.

All the advice given about starching before cutting and most important for me was to break my habit of ironing vs. pressing. Great thread to watch here with wonderful advice!

GailG 03-02-2013 10:55 AM

If there is something positive to this it would be that you made only one block. That is why I make one block at a time. If I mess up, it is only one block. The idea of sewing all of the units together and then doing all of the blocks at one time really scares me.

I rarely starch, but when I do, I will press the block first and then when it is flat, I will starch and press.

AlienQuilter 03-02-2013 11:44 AM

I have never done it Jenny's way. I will try it some day. But, I have made blocks with biased edges and did a stay stitch 1/8" on the bias edges to keep it from going wonky. This way that stay stitch gets hidden by the seam allowance.

SewOK 03-02-2013 12:49 PM

I discovered that when making the half squares the way Jenny does it if you have to much pressure on your presser foot while sewing around the squares, it will stretch the fabric also and you have to be almost absolutely sure that each corner is exactly 1/4" or when you cut the triangles, they will be off and wonky.

mike'sgirl 03-02-2013 12:51 PM

What I like to do is open the hst and carefully finger press, then I press with a dry iron and hit it with a shot of steam, right on the seam line. The iron doesn't move except up and down. It does help with stretching.


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